MOUNT ABU.

SEPTEMBER, 1873.]

rock (blue) pigeon, and strict rules are laid down by Government for their preservation. Panthers do a good deal of damage on the hill, and the visitors and residents have to keep a sharp look-out on their pet dogs after sunset. Mutton is the only meat procurable on the hill, and fowls, the main stay of the Indian khán sámán, are dear and scarce. Owing to the pre tended sanctity of Abu, and the prejudices, if we may so term them, of the natives, which Govern ment has bound itself to protect (for we are only tenants of Abu), no cow, Öx, or nilghai may be killed on the hill. The idea among the lower class is that Abu is supported on the horns of a bull; when he is tired of holding it on one horn he jerks it on to the other, and this accounts for the earthquakes so frequently felt up there. There is a story to the effect that a late Resident, tried to convince the natives of the absurdity of this notion, and, to prove it, ordered a cow to be killed on a certain day. It was slain, and, as ill luck would have it, the next day the most severe shock experienced for many years oc curred.

This was conclusive to the Hindu, the

experimenter had to own his defeat, and say no more about beef for dinner.

Whilst at Abu I

met two French gentlemen travelling round the world. Their indignation was great when they heard they could get no “biftek,” and expressed their wish that Abu belonged to the French,

who, as they said, would not only kill oxen on the hill, but the inhabitants themselves if they

opposed it. This, said they, would strengthen our bodies and position as well. The visitor to Abu should not attempt to make any excursion or shooting expedition without a competent guide. No place is so easy to lose one's way in, and it is next to impossible for a stranger to find the road to a given spot, unless indeed it be on the main mule track:

several instances have occurred of people losing their way. The inhabitants of the plains at the foot of the hill, and also of many of the villages on the summit, are chiefly Bhills, a wild and law less race of men.

No native is safe if he is

known to have a rupee on him; he is not only sure to be robbed of it, but if he shows the least

resistance

is murdered as

well.

The

country is so wild that there is little chance of catching the actual delinquent, and it is only in cases of dakaity, where a large gang of men have

been engaged in the crime, that justice over takes the criminals. The road from Abu to Disã

was very unsafe even a year or two back for the traveller. If he didnot suffer himself, his baggage was almost sure to be looted; but the energetic measures taken by Colonel Carnell, the Resident at Erinpură, and the summary justice he metes out to these ruffians when caught, has been pro ductive of much good. The only safe way to travel about is to take into your employ a Bhill guide, and the same system applies to the house chaokidºr, called a Pagi. If you have one of these men in your employ, his tribe are supposed to respect you and yours for his sake. They are said to be very faithful and susceptible of kindness shown to them. In height and make they are like the Gonds of the Central Provinces, but have

not the flat features so often seen amongst the latter race. Their hair also is longer, and many of them have thick beards andmoustaches. I did not

notice whether the women were tattooed, as the Gond women always are, but as they are blacker than the latter I may not have observed it on that account. Their clothing is scanty, and orna ments are rarely seen about them, with the exception of the gilt charm before alluded to. Many of them carry a matchlock, and those who do not possess a gun, always have the bamboo bow and iron-pointed arrows, as well as a formidable knife. They are wonderful trackers of game, surpassing in this respect, it is said, the Gond or Bhaigar. Their villages do not, however, come up to a Gond settlement so far as neatness of appearance and cleanliness is concerned. Most of the latter in the Central Provinces are well built of bamboo and charm

ingly meat and clean : those I have seen of the Bhills have anything but that character. They are a jolly, jovial set of fellows amongst themselves, and laugh heartily at any joke or comic idea that strikes them. A bu is celebrated for the number and

beauty of its temples, especially those of the Jaina creed, some of them in perfect preserva tion, and others in complete ruins. At the base of the hill, on all sides, may be seen fine old shrines, a few still in use, but most of them

dilapidated. I will endeavour to give some ac count of the chief of those I have seen, though there are a great many more that want of time and opportunity prevented my visiting. The nearest shrine of any importance to the