THE GREAT SIBERIAN ROAD IN WINTER 357
For a day or two after we crossed the Angara we saw nothing of particular interest. In several villages through which we passed between Cheromka and Nizhni Udinsk the etapes were evidently occupied by exile parties; but we did not happen to see such a party on the march until Wednes- day, and it came upon us then very suddenly and unex- pectedly. The day was cold and stormy, with a high wind and flying snow, and we were lying half buried in our sheep- skin bag, watching for the next verst-post. The atmosphere was so thick with snowflakes that we could not see the road distinctly for a greater distance than seventy-five or one hundred yards, and the party of exiles was fairly upon us before we discovered that it was not — as we at first sup- posed — a train of obdzes, or freight-sleighs. I was not ab- solutely sure of its nature until the head of the column was so near us that I could make out the muskets of the advance- guard of Cossacks and hear the familiar clinking of the prisoners' leg-fetter chains. I then ordered our yamshchik to drive out into the deep snow at one side of the road and there stop. The general appearance of the party, as it passed us, was very different from the appearance of the similar party whose departure from Tomsk we had watched in August. Then the convicts were all in their light sum- mer costume of gray, their faces were black with sunburn, and they were enveloped in a cloud of fine yellow dust raised by their shuffling, slipper-clad feet from the powdery road. The exiles before us were all dressed in reddish p6lu-shubas, or short overcoats of sheepskin, and brodnias, or high-topped leather boots ; their faces were pallid from long confinement in the Tomsk forwarding prison, and they were wading slowly and laboriously through fresh-fallen snow. The order of march was the same as in the summer, but on ac- count of the storm and the condition of the road there seemed to be some relaxation of discipline, and a good deal of straggling and disorder. The dress of the marching con-
victs consisted of the usual gray Tarn o' Shanter cap, with a