degrees of loss in weight. The differences in colour resulting

from different degrees of bleaching are taken advantage of for producing patterns in certain classes of linen fabrics. Linen thread is prepared from the various counts of fine bleached line yarn by winding the hanks on large spools, and twisting the various strands, two, three, four or six cord as the case may be, on a doubling spindle similar in principle to the yarn spinning frame, excepting, of course, the drawing rollers. A large trade in linen thread has been created by its use in the machine manufacture of boots and shoes, saddlery and other leather goods, and in heavy sewing-machine work generally. The thread industry is largely developed at Lisburn near Belfast, at Johnstone near Glasgow, Bridport, Dorsetshire, and at Paterson, New jersey, United States. Fine cords, net twine and ropes are also twisted from flax.

Weaving.—The difficulties in the way of power-loom linen weaving, combined with the obstinate competition of hand-loom Perth; and the fine linen manufactures have their seat in Belfast and the north of Ireland. Leeds and Barnsley are the centres of the linen trade in England.

Linen fabrics have several advantages over cotton, resulting principally from the microscopic structure and length of the flax fibre. The cloth is much smoother and more lustrous than cotton cloth; and, presenting a less “ woolly " surface, it does not soil so readily, nor absorb and retain moisture so freely, as the more spongy cotton; and it is at once a cool, clean and healthful material for bed-sheeting and clothing. Bleached linen, starched and dressed, possesses that unequalled purity, gloss and smoothness which make it alone the material suitable for shirt-fronts, collars and wristbands; and the gossamer delicacy, yet strength, of the thread it may be spun into fits it for the fine lace-making to which it is devoted. Flax is a slightly heavier material than cotton, while its strength is about double.

As regards the actual number of spindles and power-looms engaged in linen manufacture, the following particulars are taken from the report of the Flax Supply Association for 1905:- Number of

Number of 'weavers,

delayed the introduction of factory weaving of linen Country. Year. Spindles Year. Poweplooms for Flax for Linen

fabrics for many years after the system was fully applied to other Spinning Weaving textiles. The principal difficulty arose through the hardness and — -»- —in elasticity of the linen yarns, owing to which the yarn frequently A11St}'121-H1-Hg21fY - ~ 1903 2305414 1395 3357 broke under the tension to which it was subjected. Competition gelglum "" 1902 280900 190° K 340° ngland and Wales 1905 49,941 1905 4424

with the hand-loom against the power-loom in certain classes of France 1902 455,838 '189I 18,083 work is conceivable, although it is absolutely impossible for the Germany .. 1902 295,796 1895 ' 7557 1 work of the spinning wheel to stand against the rivalry of draw- H0ll3nd - ~ 1390 3000 1891 1200 ing, roving and spinning frames. To the present day, in Ireland ligand ' ' £932 8S1~g§§ 1982 341423 especially, a great deal of fine weaving is done by hand-loom. Norlévaé 7l',380 Sim Warden states that power was applied on a small scale to the Russia . 1902 300,000 18891 7312 weaving of canvas in London about 1812; that in 1821 power- 5C0Ela1'1d - ~ 1905 1601035 1905 17,135 looms were started for weaving linen at Kirkcaldy, Scotland; égiglerp ' " " X232 and that in 1824 Maberly & Co. of Aberdeen had two hundred 1 "" ' ' ' ' 4 power-looms erected for linen manufaCture

The powelqloom has been in British Exports of Linen 'Yarn and Cloth. Y uninterrupted use in the Broadford 1891. 1896. 1901. 1906factory, Aberdeen, which then be- W h f l d ""'g "' 8 6 " °' " longed to Maberly & Co., down to the Lggtlf £1 gffiaég 55312 gzbds' 14' 59900 I '4 200° I2'97I'100 I4'97 '29° Pf05011f day, 3110 that flfm 11}aY be plain, bleached or unbleached . 144,416,700 150,849,300 137,521,000 173,334,200 credited with being the effective in- Length in yards of linen piecfilgoopls, t d f ~ -1 ' ' checked, dyed or printe, a so

ro llcers 0 power Com weaving m damask and dia er ..... 11,807,600 17,986,100 8,007,600 13,372,100 the linen trade [P

The varioué Operations Conn ct d Length in yards 0 sailcloth. 4 3,233,400 5,372,600 4,686,700 4,25I,400 e 9 Total length in yards of all kin s o

with linen weaving, such as winding, linen cloth ., .... 159,457,700 174,208,000 150,215,300 190,957,700 warping, drgssing' bgaming and draw- Weight in p0LlI'ldS of llH€l'l tl'll'€8.d fOI ing-in, do not differ in essential features Sewing """" 2'474'I0O 2'24O'3O0 I'72I'00O 2'I8I'I°° L from the like processes in the case of

cotton weaving, &c., neither is there any significant modification in the looms employed (see WEAVING). Dressing is a matter of importance in the preparation of linen warps for beaming. It consists in treating the spread yarn with Hour or farina paste, applied to it by flannel-covered rollers, the lowermost of which revolves in a trough of paste. The paste is equalized on the yarn by brushes, and dried by passing the web over steam-heated cylinders before it is finally wound on the beam for weaving. Linen fabrics are numerous in variety and widely different in their qualities, appearance and applications, ranging from heavy F b sail-cloth and rough sacking to the most delicatccambrics, 3 "“' lawns and scrims. The heavier manufactures include as a principal item sail-cloth, with canvas, tarpaulin, sacking and carpeting. The principal seats of the manufacture of these linens are Dundee, Arbroath, Forfar, Kirkcaldy, Aberdeen and Barnsley. The medium weight linens, which are used for a great variety of urposes, such as tent-making, towelling, covers, outer garments For men, linings, upholstery work, &c., include duck, huckaback, crash, tick, dowlas, osnaburg, low sheeting's and low brown linens. Plain bleached linens form a class by themselves, and include principally the materials for shirts and collars and for bed sheets, Under the head of twilled linens are included drills, diapers and dimity for household use; and damasks for table linen, of which two kinds are distinguished-single or five-leaf damask, and double or eight-leaf damask, the pattern being formed by the intersection of warp and weft yarns at intervals of five and eight threads of yarn respectively. The fine linens are cambrics, lawns and handkerchiefs; and lastly, printed and dyed linen fabrics may be assigned to a special though not important class. In a general way it may be said regarding the British industry that the heavy linen trade centres in Dundee; medium goods are made in most linen manufacturing districts; damasks are chiefly produced in Belfast, Dunfermline and Authorities.-History of the trade, &c.: Warden's Linen Trade, Ancient and Modern. Spinning: Peter Sharp, Flax, Tow and Jute Spinning (Dundee); H. R. Carter, Spinning and Twistin of Long Vegetable Fibres (London). Weaving: Woodhouse and Milne, Jute and Linen Weaving, part i., Mechanism, part ii., Calculations and Cloth Structure (Manchester); and Woodhouse and Milne, Textile Design: Pure and Applied (London). 4 (T. Wo.)

LINEN-PRESS, a contrivance, usually of oak, for pressing sheets, table-napkins and other linen articles, resembling a modern office copying-press. Linen presses were made chiefly in the 17th and 18th centuries, and are now chiefly interesting as Curiosities of antique furniture. Usually quite plain, they were occasionally carved with characteristic Jacobean designs.

LINER, or Line of Battle Ship, the name formerly given to a vessel considered large enough to take part in a naval battle. The practice of distinguishing between vessels fit, and those not fit, to “lie in a line of battle, ” arose towards the end of the 17th century. In the early 18th century all vessels of 50 guns and upwards were considered fit to lie infa line. After the Seven Years' War (1756–63) the 50-gun ships were rejected as too small. When the great revolutionary wars broke out the smallest line of battle ship was of 64 guns. These also came to be considered as too small, and later the line of battle-ships began with those of 74 guns. The term is now replaced by “battleship”; “liner” being the colloquial name given to the great passenger ships used on the main lines of sea transport.