< Page:EB1911 - Volume 13.djvu
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GARDEN STRUCTURES]
751
HORTICULTURE

FIG. 11-Hot-Bed Three-Light Frame.

I2 to 14 ft. wide, by 10 to 12 ft. high, and of any convenient length. Heating is effected by means of hot-water pi es below the beds, and against the side ventilators. The walls bordering the central paths are arched or clotted to admit heat from the chambers below the beds. Side pipes are occasionally dispensed with, heat being obtained by means of slots at the back of the beds, communicating with the chambers. The beds are also of use for plunging pot plants. Ventilation is provided at sides and top.

Pits and frames of various kinds are frequently used for the cultivation of cucumbers and melons, as well as hot beds covered by ordinary garden frames. In these cases the first supply of heat is derived from the hot bed made up within the pit. When the heat of the ori mal bed subsides, linings of ferment mg dung must be added, and these must be kept active by occasional turnmgs and the addition of fresh material as often as re uired. It is better, however, to effect both top and bottom heating (by hot-water pipes. Orchard Houses are span-roofed or lean-to structures, in which various fruits are cultivated without the aid of artificial heat. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries and the more tender varieties of plums and pears succeed well in houses of this kind. The types of houses in gcneral use are substantially as shown in fig. 7, for span roofed, and as fig 5, for lean-to; in each case without the heating apparatus. The orchard house is among the most generally useful of all garden structures. These houses require earefgul management in earlv summer so as to induce the more delicate varieties of peaches and nectarines to complete and ripen their growth before cold, sunless

eather sets in

In commercial establishments where utility is of more importance than ornament, the glass houses and hot water apparatus are not of so elaborate a type as indicated in the foregoing remarks, and in many cases excellent produce is grown in structures more or less dilapidated In some places movable greenhouses have been erected for market purposes, so that the soil may be exposed to the sweetening egfect of the weather, w hen the glass roof is moved to an adjoining patc .

Pits and Frames.-These are used both for the summer growth and winter protection of various kinds of ornamental plants, for the growth of such fruits as cucumbers, melons and strawberries, and for the forcing of vegetables. When heat is required, it is sometimes supplied .by means of fermenting dung, or dung and leaves, or tanner's bark, but it is much more economically provided by hot-water pipes. Pits of many different forms have been designed, but It may be sufficient here to describe one or two which can be recommended for general purposes.

An excellent pit for wintering bedding-out plants or young greenhouse stock is shown at fig. io It is built upon the pigeon-hole V principle as igh as the

»~, ' ~ V ground level a, a, and 4 '~- above that in 9-in.

I "' ' brickwork At a dis-

tance of 9 in retaining

V ' walls b, b are built up

§ ' m - s ., An to the ground leve, 4 1 j, V and the spaces be-P<

=' <2 -~~;1» tween the two are -, is .

X; g 0 f» g gg covered by thick

r'T'Q?, ' § ""], ;§ Q § boarding, which is to

=."c<', ', ®: 1L f, 1 be shut down as , '§ , '¢, .f~, ~ QA ' Y shown at c in cold weather to exclude

0 S n

sf + Z 1-.-f 1- frost, and opened as Fit. 10 #Ventilated Plant Pit shown at d in mild weather to promote

The height of the pit

of the plants; and, to

return hot-water pipe e

should pass along beneath the staging, which should be a strong wooden trellis supported by projections In the brickwork. The watcr which drains from the plants or is spilt in watering would fall on the bottom, which should e made porous to carry it away. For many plants this under current of ventilation would be exceedingly beneficial, especially when eold winds prevented the sashes from being opened. A pit of this character may be sunk into the ground dceper than is indicated in the figure if the subsoil ls dry and gravell), but in the case of .1 damp subsoll it should rather be more elevatcd, as the soil could easily be sloped up to meet the retaining wall. Frames -Frames (fig. ll) should be made of the best red dcal, 1 2 in. thick. A convenient size is 6 ft. wide, 24 in high at the back and 15 in front, and they are usually 12 ft. long, which makes three lights and sashes, though they can be made with two lights or one light for particular purposes. Indeed, a one-light frame is often found very convenient for many urposes. The lights should be 2 in thick, and glazed with 2I oz. sfieet glass, in broad panes four or five to the breadth of a light, and of a length which will work in conveniently and economically, very long panes being undesirable a free circulation of air through the pit. nught be reduced according to the size stture the interior against frost, flow and from the havoc caused by accidents, and very short ones being objectionable as multiplying the chances of drip, and the exclusion of light by the numerous lap ings; panes about 12 in. long are of convenient size for garden ligfits of this character. In all gardens the frames and lights shoul

d be of one size so as to be interchangeable, and a good supply of extra lights (sashes) may always bc turned to good account or various purposes. . Span-roof garden frame (fig. I2) may under some circumstances be useful as a substitute for

the three-light frame. It is adapted for storing plants in winter, for nursing small plants in summer and for the culture of melons and other crops requiring glass shelter These frames are made II in high in front, 22 at the back and 32 at the FIG 12 -Span-Roof Frame

ridge, with ends of Ié-III red deal; the sashes, which are 2 in. thick, open by gearing, the front and back separately. The lights are hinged so that they can be turned completely back when necessary. This more direct and ready access to the plants within is one of the principal recommendations of this form of pit. Mushroom H ouse.-Mushrooms may be grown in sheds and cellars, or even in protected ridges in the open ground, but a special structure is usually devoted to them. A lean-to against the north side of the garden wall will be found suitable for the purpose, though a span-roofed form may also be adopted, especially if the building

stands apart.

The internal arrangement of a lean-to mushroom house is shown in fi ' ~

g 13. 'lhe length may

vary from 30 ft to 60 ft, a convenient width is 10 ft., which admits of a 3% ft. central path, and beds 3 ft wide on each side. The

shelves should be of slate

a, a, supported by iron

uprights, b, eac half

having a front ledge of

bricks set on edge in

cement c, c. The slabs of

slate forming the shelves

should not be too closely

fitted, as a small interval

will prevent the accumulation

of moisture at the

bottom of the bed They

may be supported by iron

standards or brick piers,

back and front, bearing

up a flat bar of iron on

which the slates may

rest; the use of the bar

will give wider intervals

between the supports,

which will be found convenient

for filling and

emptying the beds The

roof may be tiled or

slated; but, to prevent

the injurious influence

of hot sun, there should

be an inner roof or celling

d, the space between

which and the outer roof

e should be packed with

/

-

° %

/da

1% “

a . .

/ ° wifi?

fl?

I., 1

/ ~

§   ®

9, ,. 5 ga

FIG. 13 -Lean-to Mushroom House. sawdust. A hot-water pipe f should run along both sides of the pathway, close to the fron

shelves can be planted in

those on the floor level, a

for forcing sea-kale and rh

t ledge of the lowest beds. The different succession; and the lower ones, especially s being most convenient, can be utilized ubarb

The Fruit Room.—This important stoie should be dark, moderately dry, with a

steady, moderately cool atmosphere,

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