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The establishment of an institution of learning in a community is of interest not only to those who have been directly connected with it in any capacity, but to all who appreciate at its true value the part which an institution of higher education plays among other forces in the development of a community.

The origin of Pacific University has a peculiar significance, in that it belongs to the beginning of educational activity on the Pacific Coast, and this justifies an attempt to make more familiar the steps leading to its establishment, the things for which it has stood, and the personalities connected with its origin and early history.

In explaining the origin of Pacific University it may be said that it was, in general, the outcome of those forces in American life which have been instrumental in starting educational institutions everywhere along the line of settlement as it has extended westward; more particularly the institution was the product of that religious and missionary zeal which has played so prominent a part in the development of the West; and most directly the institution owes its existence to a few sturdy and benevolent personalities who will always be known as its founders. ​

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First among the founders of Pacific University must be mentioned Rev. Harvey Clark, the man who was first on the field and sowed the first seed that was eventually, after many changes, to mature into an institution of higher education. There is not much to be found in the form of written record concerning Mr. Clark, but his place in the community was a large one, if it is possible to judge from the traditions which have been handed down of his quiet yet beneficent influence. Mr. Clark was a native of Vermont and began his life as a stonemason. When he decided to seek a college education and study for the ministry his friends were inclined to oppose him, fearing that a good mason would be spoiled in the making of an indifferent minister. He was not to be turned from his purpose, however, and finally graduated from Oberlin College and was ordained to the ministry. It was his desire to give his life service to the West, and soon after his marriage he moved to Independence, Missouri, where he engaged in preaching and teaching until 1840, when he started for Oregon. The life of a missionary appealed to him, and, like most of his early associates, he intended to work among the natives in a foreign field. He was not the representative of any of the societies, but came independently, relying upon his own efforts for support. He located on a claim of land near the present site of Hillsboro and engaged in the work of farming, preaching, and teaching. Somewhere near the present site of Glencoe he established a school, which was the first to be established on the Tualatin Plain and one of the earliest in Oregon. Like those early schools it was for the children of the ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. Ill dians and of mixed blood, of whom there were coming to be many on account of the policy of intermarriage with the natives, encouraged during the period of the fur trade. Admission to this school was free, and it seems to have been notable on that account. In 1845 Mr. Clark removed to the present site of Forest Grove, where he had received a call to become pastor of the Congregational Church, 1 one of the earliest churches in Oregon and on the Pacific Coast. A log church was erected and he secured a tract of land on which a log cabin was built for his residence, which 'was standing until about ten years ago. The sites of this church and of his residence are correctly identified, and are historic spots to be cherished by those interested in Oregon history. Here he engaged in the occupations of farming, preaching, and teaching as in his previous home. He seems from an early date to have entertained a pur- pose of founding a school and was continually , on the watch for a favorable opportunity. Mr. Clark was one of those men who belong to pioneer life. He had come to set in motion forces and build institutions where there had been none before. The idea of a school was incar- nated in him and came into being from his very presence. The second personality that should be mentioned in con- nection with the establishment of a school on the Tualatin Plain was Mrs. Tabitha M. Brown, who first came to Oregon in 1846. Mrs. Brown was of New England descent, the daughter of Doctor Moffett, a physician of Brimfield, Mas- sachusetts. Her husband, Rev. Clark Brown, had died early in life, leaving to her care three sons. For some years she taught school in Maryland and Virginia to earn a livelihood and then removed to Missouri, where she believed the op- portunities were better. Here she engaged in teaching the children of the settlers, although no school was the out- come of her work so far as known. Her thoughts were turned to Oregon in 1846 and in company with a son who ​112 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. had been to Oregon in 1843 and was returning, an aged brother-in-law, and a party of emigrants, she started on the long journey at the age of sixty-six years. Eager to reach her destination she yielded, with others, to the representations of an unknown guide who promised to show a shorter route than the one down the Columbia Valley. From a letter written to her friends in the East, in 1854, we are able to learn of the trials she was com- pelled to endure before finally reaching her destination. The account is indeed a graphic one and deserves to live as one representative of pioneer experiences. She was obliged to cross stretches of country sixty miles in width where there was neither grass nor water. There were mountains to be crossed and the canyon of the Umpqua River to be passed before she could be even on the edge of the Willamette Valley. For several days she traversed that deadly gateway into her promised land and emerged alive but destitute of almost everything else. The picture of her arrival at the head waters of the Willamette is vivid indeed. In her letter she says, "Pause a moment and con- sider rny situation. Worse than alone in a savage wilder- ness, without food, without fire, cold and shivering, wolves fighting and howling about me. The darkness of night forbade the stars to shine upon me ; all was solitary as death. But that kind Providence that has ever been, was watching over me still. I committed my all to him and felt no fear." With the arrival of help from her son and others who had gone by the well-known route and an- ticipated her need, she was able after a journey of nine months to enter the homes of the Methodist missionaries near the present site of Salem. On her return from a trip to a mission station near the mouth of the Columbia River she found transportation to the Tualatin Plain where the son who had preceded her to Oregon was living. It was this visit which determined her future work in ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 113 Oregon. She was introduced to Mr. Clark and his wife, and being invited to spend the winter of 1846 and 1847 at their home, accepted. In the course of the visit she expressed, at one time, the wish to establish herself in a home of her own where she might receive the orphan children of those who perished in crossing the plains, be a mother to them all, and see that they were properly brought up and educated. This was a wish which found ready response from her host, and thus from the blending of those two kindly per- sonalities there came into being in 1847 what is known as the "Orphan Asylum." It was a school intended primarily for the children of unfortunate emigrants, but it came soon to be patronized by others. In 1848 the gold excite- ment occurred in California, and men whose wives had died left their children with Mrs. Brown. Here, too, came the children of the settlers who had selected claims in the fertile valley of the Tualatin River. The log church used by Mr. Clark served the purpose of a schoolhouse, and during the summer a boarding hall was built. The school was free to all who had not means to pay, but a charge was made to those who could afford it. There are some yet living who attended that school and remember dis- tinctly its two kindly founders. Settlers rallied nobly around the enterprise and furnished from their own meager supplies the household utensils needed for the boarding hall. When the revenue was insufficient for supplies, Mr. Clark and other settlers generously fur- nished them. Teachers were secured from those coining in or from the missionaries who had been driven from their post in the eastern part of the Willamette Valley when increase of immigration stirred up the Indians to hostility. Among those early teachers are found the names of Rev. Lewis Thompson, of the Presbyterian denomina- tion, William Geiger, a friend of Mr. Clark, later a prac​114 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. ticing physician and until recently a resident of Forest Grove, and Miss Mary Johnson, of whom no record is found beyond the name, and there were probably others who assisted. The orphan asylum was more than an idea ; it was an institution. Something tangible had started. Something had come into being where before there was nothing. It was only the forerunner of what was to follow, but -it served its purpose and it had its distinct bearing on sub- sequent events. It put at the foundation of Pacific Uni- versity a splendid motive, which, .to an institution that cherishes : traditions, is worth a great deal. Furthermore, it determined the location of an institution at Forest Grove rather than at some other place, and served as a starting point for the more ambitious undertaking that soon followed. The next step in the development of an institution was taken upon the arrival of a third personality into. Oregon. In June of 1848 there landed at Oregon City, ready *for a life-long service, for Oregon in all that makes for good cit- izenship, Rev. George H. Atkinson. It is significant that he came not as missionary to a foreign field, but as the first representative of the Home Missionary Society, and as a representative to a section of the United States that in the same year received a territorial government, thus insuring American institutions and American ideals of life. The coming of Mr. Atkinson also marks the grow- ing influence of emigration, for it had .been at the request of v a parish in Illinois, some of whose members had gone to. Oregon,, that petition had been made for a representa- tive of the society which had been organized to lay .moral foundations in the new West. It was significant, too, of the fact that the East was organizing to extend aid to the West, and to furnish conditions that would not have been realized for many years had it been necessary to await the ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 115 operation of the law of supply and demand. As Mr. At- kinson departed for his long journey and his distant field he had been charged by Rev. Theron Baldwin, Secretary of the Society for Promotion of College and Theological Education, to keep in mind the "founding of an Academy which should grow into a College." Thus new and strong forces were placed behind the modest and heroic begin- ning of Mr. Clark and Mrs. Brown, forces that reached back to the older civilization of the East and were des- tined to center, before long, complex influences upon the creation of an institution of higher education. Mr. Atkinson, like his predecessors, was a native of New England, born at Newburyport, Massachusetts. He was a graduate of Dartmouth College and of Andover Theo- logical Seminary. He had planned to enter the service of the American Board in Africa, but had been turned from his purpose almost by chance. Unlike Mr. Clark and Mrs. Brown he came to Oregon by water, thus avoiding the danger and hardship of a journey by land. With the ex- ception of the time consumed, the journey was one of ease and of pleasure. The days were spent in reading books useful to him in his future work, in making friends among the passengers, in taking observations along the route, in religious work among the sailors, and in laying plans for the future good of Oregon. When he reached the Sandwich Islands, which were at that time the front door to Oregon for one coming by water, he learned of the massacre of Doctor Whitman and his associates, a cheerful introduction indeed to his new field. He was advised by his friends to relinquish his purpose of working in a place so dangerous as Oregon seemed to be. With a greater faith than his friends, however, he refused to turn back, and in June of 1848 landed at Oregon City. It is probably true that the coming of no man previous to that of Mr. Atkinson meant so much for the future of ​116 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. education in Oregon. He had acquainted himself with the newest ideas in education, and brought with him many of the most advanced text-books then in use. He was a friend of education in every form, and his influence was not greater in the development of religious schools than in furthering the introduction of the public school system when this was accomplished in Portland a few years later. Mr. Atkinson was a man of great activity and at once set out to accomplish his purposes. He first established a school for girls at Oregon City, and then learning of the start already made on the Tualatin Plain, went there by horseback, determined to utilize everything that had al- ready been done. From papers left by Mr. Atkinson we learn that in July of 1848 a conference was held at the log cabin of Mr. Clark, at which the following were present : Rev. George H. Atkinson, Rev. Harvey Clark, Rev. Lewis Thompson, Rev. H. H. Spalding, and Rev. Elkanah Walker. Various subjects of mutual interest were discussed, and it was resolved to establish an association of the ministers and churches of the Congregational and Presbyterian de- nominations, and also to " found an Academy which should grow into a College." In September of the same year the first meeting of the association thus formed met at Oregon City, and among other items of business was the resolution passed expressing the belief "that it is ex- pedient to found an Academy under our patronage." At the same meeting a board of trustees was selected, consist- ing of the following ministers and laymen : Rev. Harvey Clark, Rev. George H. Atkinson, Rev. Lewis Thompson, Hiram Clark, Peter Hatch, William H. Gray, Alvin T. Smith, James Moore, and 0. Russell. Mr. Clark was chosen president of the board, and Rev. George H. At- kinson secretary. The members of this original board were all prominent settlers at Oregon City, Clatsop Plain, and Tualatin Plain. ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 117 Thus the "Orphan Asylum" gave place to a regularly organized academy with a board of trustees, and with a broader backing than those interested in the earlier enter- prise of the settlers could have dared to hope for in so short a time. It is interesting to notice that at the time this action was takent at Oregon City there were only a few thousand inhabitants in the whole of the Oregon Country ; the fur-trading period was just giving place to that of agri- cultural settlement, and with the exception of the "Oregon Institute," established by the Methodist missionaries near the present site of Salem, there was no school of the grade of an academy on the Pacific Coast. For the institution thus started a charter was prepared by Mr. Clark and Mr. Atkinson. It was secured from the territorial legislature by J. Q. Thornton, who had been added to the board within the year to take the place of one of the original members who had removed. This charter was secured in 1849 and was the first charter to be granted by the civil government of Oregon, A copy may be seen in the Oregon archives. A study of this early charter is the best means of securing a knowledge of the purposes of the founders. The distinctly religious character of the school may be seen in the provisions requiring the Bible to be used as a text-book, with provision for morning and evening prayers, and in the provision requiring the trus- tees to be subscribers to the Westminster creed, a require- ment that was soon changed to read "evangelical religion." The form of administration is seen in the provision for the creation of a board of trustees, which should be self- perpetuating, and an agent, who should have the direct management of the affairs of the school. The property of the school was limited to three hundred and twenty acres of land and a capital stock of $40,000. The ultimate pur- pose and hope is seen in the provision making it possible for a collegiate department to be established whenever it ​t 118 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. seemed feasible. In this provision for collegiate education it preceded all educational institutions on the Pacific Coast. It may be regarded as one of the acts of splendid audacity with which the student of western history be- comes familiar. The charter provided that the name of the institution should be "The President and Trustees of Tualatin Academy." The name Tualatin is from the Indian name of the river and the plain, which signifies a smooth and slowly flowing stream. Land for a campus was secured by gift from Mr. Clark and other settlers, and a tract covering the present site of Forest Grove was given by Mr. Clark for the purpose of securing an income. It was the plan of the founders that this should be platted into lots as the site of a town. The present name Forest Grove was given to the prospective town in 1851, in pref- erence to the name Vernon, by the trustees of the academy. Care was taken that conditions favorable to a school com- munity should exist by placing in the deeds a clause mak- ing the property revert to the institution in case ardent spirits were ever sold on the land forming this early prop- erty of the institution. The school possessed no ibuildings of its own and the work was first carried on in the log building used by Mr. Clark as the Congregational Church. The first distinct- ive school building was that erected in 1851 which is still in use and was at that time considered a fine structure, It was erected at a cost of about $7,000, of which the item of labor at $8 to $10 a day was an interesting item. There were many intermissions in the work of construction. The building was the cause of much sacrifice on the part of the early settlers and deserves to stand as a reminder to the later generations of the work of their fathers. The raising of the frame was celebrated in the true pioneer fashion as a festival occasion, and the campus was dotted ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 119 over with the white tents of the settlers, who came from near and far to participate. Many doubtless participated in the festivities and rallied around this enterprise who understood but little of the significance and perhaps were never able to enjoy many of the privileges to be derived there. . ( So far as the location was concerned there was little to be added in the way of natural environment. The cam- pus was a spot of beauty, covered with a native growth of fine firs and oaks, centuries old. The grass was dotted over with hundreds of varieties of wild flowers; the scenery in every; direction was beautiful, with the blue hills of Coast range of mountains rising beyond the green plain of the Tualatin to the north and west ; and to the east the snow-capped peaks of the Cascades. It was sep- arated, however, from the other settlements of the Oregon Country and in a position of comparative isolation, a fault that only time could correct. In the early history of Oregon permanent male teachers were difficult to secure outside of the missionaries, who were expected to be ready to serve in that capacity at any time as part of their work. In the early period it had been the profits of the fur trade that absorbed the interests of men. By the time of the founding of the academy it was the gold fever and the returns to be had from the rich agricultural lands or the mercantile opportunities. The first .teacher to be secured by the academy was Mr. D. C. L. Latourette, a young man who had just come from the East. Mr. Latourette was a native of New York state and had come West to seek his fortune. He was well educated and gave promise of excellent service, but was unable to resist the allurements of the gold fields of Cali- fornia, and served only for part of a year. He returned later to reside in Oregon, identified himself with its .de- velopment, and furnished two sons as students of the ​120 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. academy and the college at a time when students were needed. For his successor the trustees turned to the band of missionaries upon whom they could always depend and elected in March, 1849, Rev. Gushing Eells, as the record expresses it, " for the next term and onwards, Providence permitting." In the person of Mr. Eells the trustees had secured another of those New England characters who figured so prominently in the founding of Pacific Univer- sity. Tracing his descent back to the Ironsides of Crom- well he united to high ideals of education and religion much of the Cromwellian discipline. Mr. Eells was born in Blandford, Massachusetts, and was a graduate of Wil- liams College and Hartford Theological Seminary. Like Mr. Atkinson he had intended to enter the service of the American Board in Africa, but had been deterred on ac- count of the unsettled conditions prevailing there. Mr. Eells was one of those missionaries who had located among the Indians of the eastern part of the Oregon Country and had not been hindered by Hudson Bay officials from oc- cupying a dangerous field. He had stood by his post as long as it was possible, and then yielded more to the wishes of others than his own desires. Coming to the Willamette Valley he entered the service of the Oregon Institute" as teacher where he was located, when induced to enter the service of the denominations with which he was affiliated. He remained as principal of the academy but one year, resigning because of his strict ideas of dis- cipline in some of which he was not supported by the board of trustees. He engaged in farming in the neigh- borhood of Hillsboro until his recall to the academy at a later date, 1857, when he served a longer period, resign- ing at last in 1860 to return to the scene of his earlier endeavors. Here he was one who was prominent in lay- ing the foundations of Whitman College. ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 121 For a year the principalship was held by Rev. D. R. Williams, a Congregational minister, who had recently come to Oregon from Massachusetts. He resigned to ac- cept the pastorate of the Congregational Church at Salem and soon returned to the East, where he died the same year. The next principal was Mr. J. M. Keeler, who served until 1855. Mr. Keeler was later identified with the introduction of the public school system into Oregon and served as a teacher in Portland. He gradually drifted into other occupations and at the time of the civil war was United States marshal in Oregon. Although the resources of the academy were meager the sexes were taught separately in different buildings and by different teachers. As teachers for the girls are to be found the names of Miss Mary Johnson, Miss Sarah Brawley, and Mrs. Eells. In 1851 Miss Elizabeth Miller, now Mrs. E. M. Wilson of The Dalles, served for the period of one year. From her youth Miss Miller had cherished a romantic interest in Oregon. The journal of Patrick Gass had come into the possession of her father and had so aroused his interest that he had eagerly sought for his library everything that was published on the subject. From the shelves of the library they came into the hands of the daughter who was thus made ready to go out as one of the teachers sent by Governor Slade of Vermont, an enthusiast in the cause of education for the growing West. Mrs. Wilson is the oldest living teacher of the institution, and at various times has visited the institution with whose earlier history she was connected. At one of the annual meetings of the Oregon Historical Society she read a paper embodying some of her recollections of the journey to Oregon and of her experiences on arriving. A paper read before the Alumni Association of Pacific University at a recent commencement exercise gave more fully her recol- lections of the early days in Tualatin Academy. ​122 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. From 1848 to 1853 the institution aimed at nothing be- yond the work of an academy. In fact, it had all it could do to continue as such. The problems connected with the securing of money, employment of teachers, and ac- quiring of equipment were often discussed with "feverish interest," as Mr. Atkinson expressed it. Trips were made back and forth between Oregon City, Portland, and Forest Grove by horseback, in lumber wagon, and on foot, re- gardless of weather or condition of roads. Conferences were prolonged far into the night and the early hours of morning. On one occasion it was actually resolved to discontinue the school, but the resolution had been heard through the cracks in the ceiling of the cabin by Mrs. Clark, Mrs. Smith, and Mrs. Brown, and they plead with the men to reverse it, with the result that the school was continued. By 1852 the existence of the academy was assured and the purpose of extending the work had gained headway with the board of trustees. Doctor Atkinson started for the East in the interest of his work in 1852, and it was re- solved to intrust to his care a Representation of the school to the Society for the Promotion of -College and Theological Education, whose secretary had in a measure been respon- sible for the enterprise in his farewell to Mr. Atkinson. Application was therefore made to be placed on the list of institutions to receive aid. An interval elapsed before the reply could be received, which Doctor Atkinson improved by an issue of circulars to the leading patrons of educa- tion in the East. Many prominent men were willing to indorse the undertaking and to allow the use of their names in that connection. Among those who rendered this important service are to be found such men as Rev. M. Badger and D. B. Coe, of the American Missionary Society; Revs. Richard S. Storrs, Henry Ward Beecher, Gardiner Spring, George B. Cheever, William Adams, ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 123 Thomas H. Skinner, Samuel H. Cox, and Edwin F. Hat- field, of the Presbyterian and Congregational churches ; and Mark H. Newman, Henry Iveson, and A. S. Barnes, among the publishers. Such indorsement was of the greatest value to the institution at a critical time and jus- tified the hopes of the pioneer founders. The reply of the Society also was favorable when it was received. The in- stitution was to be placed ninth on the list of those to receive aid and the salary of an additional teacher was guaranteed at once. It was evidently the determination of the board, if this aid was secured, to move forward toward the use of colle- giate powers. With much satisfaction Doctor Atkinson began the search for a man to fill the position thus created. The new man was not only to go West as a teacher, but as the founder of a college. The first man approached re- fused the offer, but suggested as one 'fit for the place Sidney Harper Marsh, at that time a student in the Union Theological Seminary in New York City. He was considered especially fitted for the place, both because of his educational ancestry and also because of his apparent ability to cope with difficulties. Mr. Marsh was a native of Virginia, born at Sidney Hampton College, where his father, Rev. James Marsh, was professor. Later he re- moved to Vermont, where his father became president of the University of Vermont and professor of Mental and Moral Philosophy. Through his mother he was de- scended from President Wheelock, the first president of Dartmouth College. Mr. Marsh graduated from the Uni- versity of Vermont and entered the Union Theological Seminary, where he was studying at the time of Doctor Atkinson's visit to the East. The offer of a position in the mild climate of Oregon came at an opportune time, as he had already been considering a removal to the Southern States on account of his delicate lungs. In a ​124 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. letter to Doctor Atkinson in November of 1852 he wrote : " Under such circumstances, and considering the peculiar adaptedness of such a position to what I consider my powers of greatest usefulness, your letter seemed to me almost Providential, and I feel like assenting at once to what I understand you propose." Mr. Marsh spent a year in special preparation for his new work and in gathering books for the library. He received much encouragement from prominent men in New York City and elsewhere, among whom his family connections gave him a standing that was of great value to the welfare of the institution whose interests he was henceforth to serve. It was in this connection that this remote educational venture first received the notice of the Eastern press, and in the issue of the New York Times for January 26, 1853, the following item appeared : "We have alluded to the fact that a college has already been projected in that distant region with the view of affording the sons of emigrants the means of obtaining a classical education on the Pacific Coast. The undertaking is one that can not be too highly commended. Such an institution well endowed and placed under the charge of a competent board will be of incalculable benefit to this growing terri- tory." The journey to Oregon was made by water and was with- out special incident. Thus a new personality became con- nected with the founding of Pacific University, and one destined, perhaps, more than any other to stamp upon it the characteristics for which it should stand in the his- tory of the community. It is only just to Mr. Marsh to say that the task was a heroic one. He himself admitted in a paper presented to the trustees at /a later time that the attempt to establish a college was in advance of the needs by at least ten years. The Society in the East recog- nized the difficulty, and expressions of appreciation for the ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 125 work done are found in the proceedings of that body. The number of settlers was very small in the radius which the college might expect to reach ; they had very little appreciation of the kind of education he sought to provide ; the largest settlements at Oregon City and Port- land, both numbering only a few hundred, were separated by high hills and roads nearly impassable much of the time. Mr. Marsh entered the work with a delicate con- stitution, without any of the comforts of home, and with only an unfinished room on the upper floor of the one building the institution possessed. Such was the abode of one used to all the comforts and refinements of a college community in New England. He entered at once with enthusiasm into his work. It was deemed best to apply for a new charter and one was secured in 1854. In general outline and in most of its de- tails it resembled the earlier one. The name was changed to the "President and Trustees of Pacific University and Tualatin Academy," a name which the institution still re- tains. The name Pacific was selected by Mr. Marsh him- self in preference to Columbia and Washington. The term University was also his choice and represents his ultimate hope for the institution. The ability to hold land and cap- ital stock was increased to a township of land and $500,000. The religious character of the institution and the general plan of organization with a self-perpetuating board of trus- tees was preserved. The inauguration of President Marsh occurred with ap- propriate ceremonies, held out of doors for lack of a hall large enough for the occasion. In the inaugural address appear the policies and ideals for which the institution was to stand in the future. He outlined a classical college with high standards and full courses of study according to the ideas at that time prevailing in the better institu- tions of the East. "To-day," he said, "Pacific University ​126 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. commences its formal and public organization, accepts publicly and solemnly its responsibilities, and assumes a position from which there can be no honorable retreat. After five years of preparation, of painful and strenuous effort, this institution takes a step in advance. The idea of education has taken a higher form of development the academy has become the college." Upon President Marsh personally fell most of the work. He had to outline the policies for the future, to map out the courses of study, set the proper standards for a college education, educate public opinion to appreciate and accept such standards, provide funds for an enlarged work, and do most of the advanced teaching himself. That was a program of work that would make an educator of the present time wince. The difficulties were further increased by a defective ad- justment between college and academy and the impossi- bility of keeping the latter in its position of subordination when it was by far the larger part of the institution. The presidency of Doctor Marsh from 1854 to 1879 may properly be called the formative period of the institution. The college became more than an idea ; it became a fact. With a rare skill Doctor Marsh, supported and aided by those who had already done so much, brought every influ- ence to bear upon the work to which he had set himself. Following Mr. Keeler in 1855 as colleague of President Marsh in the academy, Erastus D. Shattuck came as principal. Mr. Shattuck was of Belgian descent, born in Vermont, a graduate of the University of Vermont, a man of fine education and abilities. Before coming to Oregon he had been admitted to the bar of New York state. He was engaged as teacher of ancient languages and was thorough in his work. Between Mr. Shattuck and President Marsh there were many bonds of sympathy. Destined, however, for a larger place in the history of Oregon he left educational work and entered the practice ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 127 of his profession, attaining by the time of his death to the position of circuit judge in Oregon. Although many of the men connected with the institution in these early times did not stay for a long period of service their in- fluence was valuable, and generally, as in the case of Mr. Shattuck, they remained in the State and became influen- tial friends of the institution. As a successor, Rev. Gush- ing Eells was recalled and served for a period of three years. The academy continued to do effective work under the principalship of William Adams, now a resident of Hills- boro, Harvey W. Scott then a student in the college, E. A. Tanner called from Jacksonville, Illinois; S. Weynand, L. J. Powell, A. J. Anderson from Illinois, and J. D. Robb, all of whom served during the presidency of Doctor Marsh. To the development of the college proper Doctor Marsh gave his best service and endeavored to make the institu- tion stand in the community for high ideals of classical education. It is to this effort, therefore, that attention must be directed. Doctor Marsh was not lacking in ap- preciation of the more elementary features of education, but he felt that the subject of higher education was his own creative sphere of activity. The requirements of a college are necessarily greater than those of an academy. Money and permanent en- dowment was needed and to this task Doctor Marsh de- voted his energies. In the fall of 1858 he made his first trip to the East, remaining until the spring of 1860. The work of solicitation was distasteful to Doctor Marsh, but he had much success in the work. His letters home are filled with the experiences which a man engaged in such work was compelled to meet. His devotion to the cause and his enthusiasm, together with the helpful influence of connections with a family of prominent educators in the East, surmounted all difficulties and he was able to ​128 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. secure about $20,000. The coming of the civil war in- terrupted the work for several years, but as soon as the war was over he was back in the East again soliciting money. In spite of conditions following the war he was able to secure about $25,000. Another trip in 1870 brought about $20,000, and a fourth trip in 1878, promised equal results. He was obliged, however, to return, broken in health, with the work incomplete. A list of the donors found in the records of the trustees is an excellent indica- tion of the patronage which was back of this pioneer in- stitution in the West. The list is too long to give in full, but the following names are representative of the givers : William E. Dodge, Henry Ward Beecher, Dr. E. M. Kirk, Edward Everett Hale, Nehemiah Adams, Amos Lawrence, Frederick Billings, C. P. Huntington, Dr. A. D. Smith, Richard S. Storrs, James P. Thompson, Rufus Choate, R. C. Winthrop, Edward Everett, Sidney E. Morse, and his brother S. F. B. Morse, Professors Phelps and Shedd of the Andover Theological Seminary, and Professors Hitchcocks, Robinson, Skinner, and Smith of the Union Theological Seminary. To a college in its initial stages the indorsement of such men was worth even more than the money they gave. Many of these men also were con- tributors at several different times, thus signifying their confidence in the undertaking and in the management. With the increase of means the business management became of greater importance. Upon the trustees added responsibilities fell. The original board had been thinned by death, removal, and resignation, and new men were selected to take the places. In 1851 Prof. Horace Lyman and Thomas Naylor were elected ; in 1853 W. P. Abrams, Alanson Hinrnan, and Israel Mitchell ; in 1857 Rev. P. B. Chamberlain ; in 1858 Rev. 0. Dickinson and H. W. Cor- bett ; in 1866 Rev. Elkanah Walker and George Shindler ; in 1873 Prof. Thomas Condon ; in 1876 R. P. Boise ; in ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 129 1877 Henry Failing, and in 1878 Rev. Myron Eells. The selection of men was carefully made, different religious denominations were represented, both professional and business men were chosen. Many of the younger and rising business men of the neighboring city of Portland were placed on the board and gave to the work their care- ful attention. The board had among its members not only those who understood what a college should be, but also skilled men of affairs who understood how to pursue a cor- rect financial policy. Scrupulous care was taken to keep intact the funds contributed and to see that they were as- signed to the objects which the donors desired. Money was not used for current expenses, but the principle of perma- nent endowment was firmly established. The early treas- urers, A. T. Smith, T. Naylor, President Marsh, and Pro- fessor Lyman, though they had less funds to handle, had done their work well. The later treasurers, H. W. Corbett, W. S. Ladd, and Henry Failing, as practical men of affairs, were able not only to preserve intact the funds, but by wise investment to increase them. Mr. Corbett and Mr. Failing were both from the State of New York, came to Oregon as young men to make their fortunes and had been successful. Mr. Ladd was from Vermont, the State that furnished so many of the early founders and had established the first banking house in Oregon. Mr. Corbett served as treasurer until his election to the United States senate in 1866, and always afterward used his influence in favor of the institution's financial welfare, giving largely of his own means. Mr. Failing served until his death in 1898, when he was succeeded by Mr. Frank M. Warren, a son-in-law of Doctor Atkinson. To the affairs of the institution Mr. Failing gave the same care that he bestowed on his own business. The accounts of the institution were even kept in his own handwriting. He was sensitive in his desire that every fund should be ​130 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. scrupulously kept intact, and that the credit of the insti- tution should be maintained at the highest point. His phrase " better close the institution than do a dishonorable thing" has become proverbial with the board of trustees. In the development of a staff of college professors the first appointment was that of Rev. Horace Lyman to the chair of Mathematics. Mr. Lyman had come to Oregon originally as a representative of the Home Missionary Society, and in that capacity had already done much work previous to his appointment in the college. He was the first pastor of the First Congregational Church at Port- land, and served in other places as well. Mr. Lyman was a native of Massachusetts, born at East Hampton. He was a graduate of Williams College and of Andover The- ological Seminary. As a young man he had been a per- sonal friend of Mr. Atkinson and largely through his in- fluence came to Oregon. He was later transferred to the chair of History and Rhetoric, for which he had greater aptitude than for mathematics. Professor Lyman was a man of great usefulness in the college. In spite of phys- ical infirmities he was able to endure the heavy work requisite in a pioneer college. He was often called on to do administrative work besides his usual duties as teacher. During the absence of President Marsh in the East he acted as president, and served as treasurer for some years. As a teacher Professor Lyman possessed that quality of sympathy which drew students to him. The oldest grad- uates speak in highest terms of him and of the inspira- tional character of his work. In 1863 the faculty was increased by the addition of Prof. Edward A. Tanner, who was transferred from the academy to the chair of Ancient Languages. Professor Tanner came to Oregon from Illinois, where he was born. He was a graduate of Illinois College. He was a teacher of high standards and well qualified for the work of a ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 131 college such as he was called to serve. After a period of three years he resigned and accepted a position in his alma mater, to the presidency of which he was later called, devoting the remaining years of his life to that service. Prof. 0. P. Harpdening, a graduate of Rutger's College, New Jersey, became professor of Ancient Languages, but remained only two years. Although thorough as a teacher, he was somewhat eccentric in manner. Of his subsequent career there is no record. In 1867 Prof. Joseph W. Marsh came as professor of Ancient Languages. He was a half brother of President Marsh, a native of Vermont, and a graduate of the University of Vermont. His experience had been gained in the schools of Wisconsin and of Can- ada. He still holds the same chair and is the oldest mem- ber of the present faculty. A service of nearly forty years has enabled him to leave an impress on the lives of a large number of students who have been under his instruction, and to be a part of the history of Oregon. His ideal of education is the well-rounded training of all the mental faculties. Remarkably well read along many lines, he has broad sympathies for every field of knowledge. Character is the chief object to be attained according to his stand- ards, and for forty years he has exemplified to his students the things he has taught. In 1872 Prof. Alexander J. Anderson was added to the faculty as professor of Mathematics. He came to Oregon first as principal of the academy and was transferred to the college. Professor Anderson was of Scotch-Irish descent and born in Illinois. He was a graduate of Knox College. Besides the work in Mathematics he was for a period of about three years professor of the Art of Teaching, to which subject considerable attention was given previous to the establishment of normal schools. In 1874 he re- signed, devoting the remainder of his life to the cause of education in the Northwest, as principal of the High School ​132 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. in Portland and as president of the Territorial University of Washington and of Whitman College. The Ancient Languages, Mathematics, and Mental and Moral Philosophy will be recognized as predominating in the instruction of the college thus far. Attention, how- ever, was paid to Science, its value was recognized, and some strong men were employed in that line. As early as 1861 to 1863 science had been taught by Professor Taft. In 1867 Prof. George H. Collier was called from a similar position in the East to have charge of the work of Chem- istry, Botany, Geology, and Mathematics. He was a na- tive of the State of New York, a graduate of Oberlin Col- lege, and of the Normal School at Albany, New York. The work in Geology, however, was soon given over to Prof. Thomas Condon, who had begun his connection with the college by a course of lectures on Geology in 1872. Later he was added to the faculty. Professor Condon was born in Ireland, but came to America as a boy. He first came to Oregon as a representative of the Home Mission- ary work and served at various places in that capacity, among others at Forest Grove. He was not only a pro- fessor in the college, but was elected as a trustee. As a scientist in the special field of geology he has become an authority, while as a teacher he inspired great interest in the subject he taught. Professor Collier and Professor Condon both resigned in 1876, the first to accept a position in Willamette University at Salem and the latter to enter the service of the State University at Eugene, with which he has been connected ever since. After the resignation of Professor Collier, Capt. R. H. Lamson, a graduate of the Naval Academy at Annapolis, was employed to teach Mathematics until the arrival of William N. Ferrin in 1877. Professor Ferrin was a native of Vermont and a graduate of the University of that State. He was a son of Rev. Clark Ferrin, and had received experience in teach​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 133 ing in connection with academies in New England. His connection with the college has been continuous since that time. For a period of about a year Levi C. Walker, an alumnus of the college, served as instructor of Mathe- matics. In 1882 William D. Lyman was employed as in- structor in English and History. He was a son of the Professor Lyman and upon the death of the latter suc- ceeded to his chair. He was the first alumnus of the col- lege to hold a chair in the college. He remained until his resignation to accept a similar position in connection with Whitman College. In the earlier times the scientific equipment was meager indeed. It has been said that it began with a spy-glass to view the stars and a galvanic battery which Professor Ly- man owned and used as a curative for rheumatism. Small appropriations were made later for equipment and mate- rials and laboratories were started. The development of a library was one of the special ob- jects of President Marsh's effort. Already a start had been made before his arrival in Oregon. The first book secured for the library so far as the records show was a " History of Harvard College," given in 1851 by Rev. S. C. Damon of the Sandwich Islands, a friend of Mr. Eells and interested in the establishment of a school through a visit to the Tualatin Plain. To one looking back there seems to be a peculiar fitness that this history of a pioneer col- lege of Atlantic Coast should become the first book in the library of a pioneer college of the Pacific Coast. Hon. S. Thurston, delegate from the Oregon Territory to Congress, interested himself in the college, secured many publica- tions from the government, and placed the institution in line to receive many more. Subsequent representatives in Congress have aided in the acquisition of books, and an alumnus of the college, Hon. Thomas H. Tongue, when member of the House of Representatives, had the institu​134 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. tion made a depository of government publications. Thus the library is particularly rich in government works, be- ginning with the Annals of Congress in 1789. Doctor Atkinson, also, was alive to the value of a library and se- cured many books when he was in the East. After his death his private library also was given to the institution by his daughter, Mrs. F. M. Warren. President Marsh on every trip to the East secured books, both by gift and purchase. One of the most notable gifts was the collec- tion of Sidney E. Morse. His father, Rev. Jedediah Morse, was interested in the subject of geography, and was him- self one of the leading American writers on the subject. Among his books were many that pertained to that field. Thus the library come into possession of such a rare and valuable book as a " Ptolemy Universal Geography," bear- ing the date 1542. There were also many books of travel now invaluable to one desiring to study American history from the sources. The collection was also rich in early texts and contains at least four hundred volumes of Amer- icana that date previous to 1820. Many of the books are in- teresting from the names on the fly leaf. There are books given by Henry W. Longfellow, Rufus Choate, and Ed- ward Everett Hale, with autograph signatures, and some- times addressed to President Marsh. Many of the books are interesting because they represent the taste of those who assisted President Marsh in the selection. His cousin, George P. Marsh, was an adviser, and as a consequence there went into the library many early English texts in- valuable to the student of English literature. The collec- tion of books was a remarkably good one for the center of a college life and alone gave tone to the college as stand- ing for culture in the truest sense. A fund also was created which yields a few hundred dollars yearly, and from this the library has been able to add from time to ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 135 time a selection of the more recent books needed in the different departments. Previous to the year 1863 there were no graduates. Several had entered the college, but had dropped out for various reasons. In 1863 the college had its first graduate in the person of Harvey W. Scott, the son of a settler living in the vicinity of Forest Grove. Mr. Scott had been a good student and while yet pursuing his studies had been intrusted with work in the academy. He took the classical course and received the degree of A. B. There was no regular commencement exercise at the time, but his oration was delivered in public. This event marks, perhaps, one of the triumphs in the administration of Doctor Marsh. It had now been demonstrated that a four-year course of study could be maintained. If one student could be graduated others were sure to follow. The next class to graduate, in 1866, consisted of three. Regular commencement exercises were held and every year since there has been a class with appropriate exer- cises. The largest class that President Marsh was privi- leged to see finish the course was the class of 1878, which numbered ten. The class of 1867 contained the first to take the scientific course, Dr. Dav Raffety, now of Portland. The first woman to graduate was Miss Harriet Hoover, wife of the late Benton Killen of Portland. After the graduation of the first student an alumni as- sociation was established for the purpose of strengthening the fraternal bonds between the educated men in the Northwest, to preserve the purity of aim that characterized the college life, and to give college graduates living in this region the privilege of a college association. This organization was open to all college graduates living in Oregon and Washington. The plan was well conceived because it brought to the support of the college that sympathetic indorsement of men from many of the col​136 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. leges of the East who appreciated a college education, and aided in the support of high standards in a new country where they were little appreciated. The period of the war had led to the establishment of regular military drill. Stacks of arms had been provided by the government and especial attention was paid to drill previous to the second election of President Lincoln. There was a strong Southern feeling in Oregon at this time, and one of her favorite sons had been candidate for vice-president on the extreme Southern ticket. A large part of the army of General Price, after its failure in Missouri, had come to Oregon. Regular meetings of the Knights of the Golden Circle were held in the vicinity of Forest Grove, and one of the exciting, though dangerous, pranks of the early students was to act as spies. The in- fluence of the college during this period was wholly for the Union. Doctor Marsh gave freely of his time and effort in that cause. In 1863, the critical year, he preached a fast-day sermon, and at various times lectured for the benefit of the Sanitary Commission. As early as 1866, and probably earlier, the first literary society was founded, the "Gamma Sigma," Gnothen Seauton, and shortly after the Alpha Zeta Society. A girls' society, the Philomathean, was established as a re- sult of a class discussion, according to the record, in which the boys were worsted and took revenge by taunting the girls with inability to maintain a literary society, a chal- lenge which was accepted with the result that a society was started. The programs of these early societies are interesting from the questions discussed, among others to be noted are the "Annexation of Hawaii," and the "Intervention of the United States in Cuba," which read strangely now. The societies have been a leading feature of the college life and rarely does an alumnus, in referring to his student days, fail to refer with satisfaction to his ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 137 connection with one or the other. They have also been the means of bringing into touch with the college many of the prominent men of the state and the coast who at various times have been invited to lecture under their auspices. Until 1869 a segregation of the sexes had been the policy of the institution as that was the generally accepted idea throughout the country at that time. The westward move- ment of population and the difficulty of supporting sepa- rate schools for the sexes was gradually bringing about a change. In 1869 President Marsh was convinced of the impracticability of his plan, and also seems to have un- dergone some change in regard to the theory of separate education. His policy of separating the academy and the college and establishing a seminary for young women was abandoned, although considerable headway had already been made in that direction, sites had been secured for the separate schools, and committees appointed to look after each and to apportion the funds. With the admis- sion of women to the regular college classes in 1869 it be- came necessary to have a preceptress, and the first to hold this office was Mrs. A. J. Anderson, followed in turn by Miss P. A. Wing, later Mrs. P. A. Saylor, Mrs. N. Spiller, Miss Mary E. Mack, and Miss Luella Carson, who held the position for the longest period of time from 1878 to 1884, when she resigned to accept a position in the State University at Eugene. Most of the young women took a three-year course of study leading to the degree of Mistress of Science. Miss Ella Scott, later Mrs. Latourette of Ore- gon City, was the first to take the longer course leading to the A. B. degree. As the administration of President Marsh drew to a close a difference of policy, which had existed for some time previous,, became more prominent. Some of the trustees and friends of the college were desirous that a ​138 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. closer relation be established between the college and the Congregational Church, and proposed that the association of ministers and churches of the Congregational body elect the proportion of trustees allowed to that denomina- tion rather than that they be elected by the board itself, as the charter provided. The difference was one of those honest differences of opinion which are always likely to occur and have occurred in so many religious institutions in regard to the same question, but it was unfortunate in its effect in that it led to divided councils where unity of aim was best calculated to insure permanence for the work already done and to secure such progress as the founda- tions already laid promised for the immediate future. It also added greatly to the burdens of President Marsh, who was opposed to the plan, and together with his naturally delicate constitution and a life of hard work caused his breakdown. Unable to complete the work of his last trip to the East he returned with the work unfinished. In hope of recovery he went to Eastern Oregon but failed to derive the benefit hoped for, and died in February of 1879. The selection of a successor to President Marsh was not an easy matter and considerable time elapsed before the choice was finally made. During the interval Prof. J. W. Marsh, who was familiar with the policies of his brother and with the details of the work, acted as president. In 1880 the trustees elected as president Rev. John R. Her- rick. President Herrick was a native of Vermont and a graduate of the University of that state. He had served for a time as professor in the Bangor Theological Semi- nary and as pastor at South Hadley, Massachusetts. He was a man of broad culture and high standards. Because of his ideas, his birth place and college connections he was a logical successor to President Marsh, and seemed in every way fitted to carry on the work of the college as already established by his predecessor. In regard to the ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 139 question of closer affiliation with the Congregational de- nomination he was even more opposed than President Marsh to anything that might be regarded as sectarian, and cherished the vain hope of merging all the Christian schools of the State into one strong institution under re- ligious patronage. Had he been able to accomplish his purpose in this it would have been a master piece in the educational history of Oregon. The idea, however, was beyond the conditions that then existed and was opposed by the trustees ; his term of service also was too brief to allow of its accomplishment. President Herrick gave his immediate attention to the acquisition of a suitable dormitory for the young women, now a part of the institution. Most of his time was spent in the East, and, in fact, he never really established a home in the place where the institution was located. Through his efforts in the East enough was secured to eject the building which now bears his name " Herrick Hall." The building was architecturally better than any other on the campus and cost about $16,000. When it was completed it was opened with appropriate ceremonies and an address upon " The Higher Education of Women, the Last Chapter in the History of Liberty." During the presidency of Doctor Herriek an effort was made to realize, under the patronage of the college, a plan cherished by Capt. M. C. Wilkinson of the United States army for an industrial school for Indians at Forest Grove, similar to that established at Carlisle, Pennsylvania. That he might accomplish his object the captain was detailed as a military instructor in Pacific University. It was the plan that the college should furnish the site and preserve an oversight of the school, while the government should provide the money. Considerable space is taken up in the records of the trustees over questions connected with this undertaking and various reports made from time to time. ​140 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. It seems to have been well started on a splendid site and by a man well qualified for such a humanistic undertaking, but through political means removal was secured. In its new location, however, it continued to grow and has now become the flourishing institution at Chemawa. Captain Wilkinson was a man of qualities that endeared him to the people of the community, and his death in the recent Indian disturbances in Minnesota caused much regret. The buildings in part still remain and the best one is used as a dormitory for boys. It was the desire of one of the trustees, Mr. E. M. Atkinson, son of the founder, and added to the board in 1887, to utilize the buildings for a depart- ment of industrial training which might grow into a tech- nical school, and it went so far as to receive the indorse- ment of the board of trustees. For some reason, however, probably lack of funds, it was never carried out. Captain Wilkinson had been a useful man in the college and the military drill was continued after his departure. As successors are to be noted Captain Pierce, a man of considerable ability along the line of classical studies and himself a translator of Vergil and Horace, and Capt. A. Tyler, who still resides at Portland. In 1883 President Herrick resigned his position and returned to the East, where he engaged in educational work. He is still living and maintains an interest in the college with which he was once connected. With little delay a successor was chosen by the board of trustees. Rev. Jacob F. Ellis, the next president, was a native of Ohio and a graduate of Wheaton College. His education was interrupted by the civil war, but he returned to complete it and took a theological course at Oberlin Seminary. At the time of his coming to Oregon he was a pastor at Toledo, Ohio. He had first come to Oregon as pastor of the Congregational Church at Forest Grove and then removed to Seattle, Washington, where he accepted ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 141 a pastorate. From his residence in Forest Grove he had become known and seemed to possess the qualifications desired for a president. In many of his views President Ellis resembled his predecessors, and was in full sympathy with an institution of the type of Pacific University. The presidency of Mr. Ellis seems notable for a greater emphasis put upon departments, perhaps by way of realiz- ing the university idea. The girls were placed in a depart- ment by themselves, called the Ladies' Department, and the head assumed the title of lady principal in place of preceptress. A separate board of seven women, to act under the regular board of trustees, was created. First to hold the office of lady principal was Miss Emily Plummer, succeeded in turn by Miss Julia Adams of Oberlin College. It was the purpose of President Ellis also to seek affilia- tion with a medical school in Portland, a plan which went as far as a committee of the trustees, but no farther. In the line of music the change made was more lasting, and continues to the present time. Instruction in music had been given from an early date, and among the instructors are to be found the names of Miss Olivia Haskell, Mrs. E. H. Marsh, Miss Sarah Bowlby,and others. The first director of the Musical Department or Conservatory was Mrs. D. L. Edwards, wife of the principal of the academy under Pres- ident Ellis. Instruction on the violin was also given by Mr. D. W. Early. A department of art existed also, with Miss Emma Cornelius as instructor, and later Mr. Clyde Cook, an artist of considerable merit. It is to be noted that the arts were recognized as worthy of incorporation into an educational system. During the presidency of Mr. Ellis some changes oc- curred in the faculty, although the corps was not increased. Rev. D. L. Edwards became principal of the academy. Prof. G. W. Shaw was placed in charge of the work in science and gave greater emphasis to the practical sides ​142 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. of chemical work, a subject in which he was interested. Courses in assaying were offered illustrative of the change. Prof. W. D. Lyman resigned to accept a position at Whit- man College and Miss Lillian Poole was elected to succeed him as instructor of English and History. It is apparent that competitors had occupied the field by this time and more attention was paid to the matter of placing the school before the public in the form of printed advertisements, for which appropriations were now made. A college motto was chosen by President Ellis, Pro Christo et Regno Ejus, symbolic of the religious character of the institution. Dur- ing the later years of President Ellis' administration the' question of denominational or undenominational control came to a climax. Mr. Ellis had favored the view opposed to that of his predecessors and an attempt was made to ac- complish the change. It failed to succeed and President Ellis resigned with the larger part of his corps of instruct- ors. Professors Marsh and Ferrin were the only two that remained of the old corps. Considerable feeling had been engendered in connection with this matter, and the selec- tion of the next president was an important question. Again Professor Marsh acted as president for the interval and until the election by the board of Rev. Thomas Mc- Clelland, of Tabor College, Iowa. President McClelland was of Scotch-Irish descent and came to America in boyhood. He was a graduate of Ober- lin College and Andover Theological Seminary. Some years he had spent in the pastorate and had become con- nected with educational work in Tabor College, where he held the position of professor of Mental and Moral Science when called to the presidency of Pacific University. Be- fore accepting the position he came to Oregon to study the field. He was enthusiastic over the possibility of building up a strong institution upon foundations already laid so well and in a section of the country promising rapid de​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 143. velopment. He brought to the institution the required qualities and soon the opposing factions were harmonized. The charter was so amended that a proportion of two thirds of the board should be Congregationalists. but elected by the board as the charter had provided. Thus the institu- tion was enabled to retain the broad unsectarian character which had been in the past emphasized, and at the same time secure the patronage of a denomination closely iden- tified with educational institutions in the West. It was further provided that the institution should never be re- moved from Forest Grove, a question which had grown out of the previous one. The administration of President McClelland was one of development along all lines. The board of trustees was increased at different times to fill vacancies and to provide for the enlarged number by the following : Milton W. Smith, Napoleon Davis, L. H. Andrews, John Som-erville, Newton McCoy, H. H. Northup, Frank M. Warren, A. T. Gilbert, Rev. C. F. Clapp, and Rev. A. W. Ackerman. A larger representation on the board of trustees was given to the alumni of the college, and efforts were made to bring to the support of the institution a body of grad- uates comparatively large, occupying positions of promi- nence in the community, and some possessed of consid- erable wealth. Recognition of the relation of the alumni to the college was a policy in line with the development of educational institutions everywhere and a matter of much importance. Administrative matters were simpli- fied by the creation of committees of the board to be in- trusted with considerable power in the selection of teach- ers, attention to the financial matters, and other business that often requires action sooner than the regular meet- ings of the board could secure it. President McClelland gave his attention to increasing the resources of the institution, and succeeded in securing ​144 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. funds for the erection of a large brick structure, to be used mainly for distinctively college purposes, built at a cost of about $50,000. It was named "Marsh Hall" for the first president. The endowment was increased also by the addi- tion of over $150.000. Both for the building and the en- dowment Dr. D. K. Pearsons of Chicago gave largely upon condition that other funds be raised, and extended the time until the result was accomplished, notwithstanding the period of financial depression when the solicitation was made. By means of this added endowment several chairs that had been partially endowed were filled out, a chair in Latin begun by a gift of Mrs. Gushing Eells in the form of land, and a chair in Philosophy begun by Doctor Marsh in the early years of his presidency. A new pro- fessorship was established in Mathematics, called the Vermont professorship, and plans were laid for the com- pletion of still others, notably a partially completed pro- fessorship started by Mrs. Tabitha Brown and another by Mrs. Horace Lyman, wife of the early professor. The latter however were not completed. The vacancies in the faculty were filled by teachers selected by President McClelland before coming West. During the period of his administration there were a good many changes which belong rather to the later history than the founding, and need not be mentioned in this paper. It may be said, however, that more attention was given to subjects that had formerly received less attention relative to the classics, mathematics, and philosophy. The courses were strengthened by making possible a wider range of work and more continuous courses in various branches than previously had been possible. The prin- ciple of election was recognized to the extent of about one third of the last two years. It was during the presidency of Doctor McClelland that more attention was paid to distinctively student features ​ORIGIN OF PACIFIC UNIVERSITY. 145 of college life. Athletics, in the form of football and track team work, took a regular place as part of the college life. Oratory, and especially debating, were developed more systematically than before, intercollegiate contests of va- rious kinds took place, a college paper, the Index, was started. Christian activities were stimulated by supplant- ing earlier societies by the Young Men's and Young Women's Christian Associations ; the cultivation of col- lege loyalty in its better sense was encouraged. All of these features were in line with college life generally and had the effect of attracting students to enter the rigid dis- cipline of a prolonged college course and help them to persist to the end. Notable as an event of President McClelland's adminis- tration must be mentioned the celebration of the semi- centennial of the founding of the institution. It was ob- served with appropriate exercises and the delegates of the National Congregational Council of the United States then meeting in Portland came out in a body to spend the day. Many college and university presidents and noted clergy- men from the East and from England took part. Peter Hatch, a member of the original board of trustees, was present and was able to address the audience for a few minutes, arousing much enthusiasm. A check from Doc- tor Pearsons of something over $30,000 was another cause of enthusiasm. Thus the representatives of the very forces which brought the institution into being were able to come and see the thing accomplished. The institution was on a permanent basis, its heroic age was passed, it had become a part of the history of the State, its graduates were mature men occupying important places in the new West, one of them, its first graduate, had a place on the program. The institution by the close of President McClelland's administration may be said to have achieved its distinctive ​146 JAMES R. ROBERTSON. characteristics. Upon the resignation of President Mc- Clelland in 1900 to accept the presidency of Knox College, Illinois, the trustees selected Professor William N. Ferrin as acting president, and in 1903 he was elected president. President Ferrin has been connected with the college sufficiently long to be acquainted with the history and the ideals of the institution, and he has been closely enough associated with President McClelland in the administra- tion of the college to be regarded as a logical successor.

JAMES ROOD ROBERTSON. ​

The first people to come to what is now the State of Washington, with intent to make permanent abode, were the fur traders, the men of the Northwest and Hudson Bay companies. The two companies were consolidated, after a long and fierce struggle in Canada, and for many years the Hudson Bay Company, which succeeded the other, was in exclusive occupancy of the field in the British and Oregon territories. Its operations on the North Pacific Coast had headquarters at Vancouver on Columbia River, with subordinate establishments at Colville, Spokane, Walla Walla, Cowlitz, Nisqually, and elsewhere. Dr. John McLoughlin was in charge, assisted by Mr. James Douglas, commonly known now, from honors later acquired, as Governor Douglas and Sir James Douglas. These men were of the utmost integrity, great ability, devoted to the corporation they represented and the flag under which they were born—that of Great Britain.

Others who came officially, as representatives of the United States, were Captains Lewis and Clark, the hundredth anniversary of whose coining is now being so magnificently celebrated in the neighboring city of Portland; Lieutenant Slacum and Captain Wilkes, both of the navy, and Lieutenant Fremont, of the army; also Dr. Elijah White, Indian agent. There were occasional American whalers and trading vessels along the coast, on Puget Sound, and in the Columbia River, and Smith, Wyeth, and Bonneville made their appearance with parties overland. These, however, were affairs of short duration, ​148 THOMAS W. PROSCH. mere visits or commercial efforts of transient character. They sustained and advanced the claim of the United States to the country, however, and in that way nation- ally served a good purpose. After the fur gatherers in point of permanent residence came the missionaries, Whitman, Eells, Walker, Blanchet, and others. While all honor is due them for their coming, their good works, their struggles and sufferings in behalf of what they deemed right and best, and their efforts to improve the savages about them, they were of a class to themselves, and somewhat removed from the men who arrived later and made the Territory of Washington. The first of these men were of the overland immigration of 1844, the most conspicuous figure among them being Michael T. Simmons. Simmons was a Kentuckian, tall, commanding, learned in the ways of men but not of schools. Others with him were James McAllister, Samuel B. Crockett, Jesse Ferguson, David Kindred, Gabriel Jones, and George W. Bush, all but Crockett and Ferguson with families. On arriving at Fort Vancouver they did as everybody else did : inquired of McLoughlin and Doug- las as to the country, the prospects, opportunities, and for advice. The representatives of the great company freely and frankly told them all they wanted, to wit, that the Americans generally were locating south of the Co- lumbia River, not one so far being north ; that the Wil- lamette was the largest valley north of Mexico, and was then in a condition of rapid commercial development; that the soil and climate there were good, the chances for trade excellent, the only schools in the country there, and that in every way they believed it to be preferable for those from the States there to settle. As a matter of fact this information was true and this advice good ; but also it was just as much a matter of fact that these Britons did not want American settlers north of the Columbia, which ​POLITICAL BEGINNING OF WASHINGTON. 149 their government was then endeavoring to establish as the international boundary line, and which purpose would be weakened, if not defeated, by a large number of citizens of the United States making their homes in that part of Oregon; and further, these Hudson Bay Company men knew that the interests and business they represented would be hurt by the presence throughout the country of such strong, free, independent men as they were then ad- dressing. It was better, they thought, and tried to show, to keep the people of the two nations apart, with a broad river between. The statements and arguments thus pre- sented had always before been effective, but in this case they worked somewhat contrarily. They had the effect of arousing suspicions in the minds of their hearers, who thereupon determined they would see for themselves what it looked like on Puget Sound. They were strengthened in this resolution by another cause. The Oregon Provi- sional Government had enacted stringent laws against blacks and inulattoes. They were not allowed to remain in the country, and for evading or defying the law were to be punished. George W. Bush was a mulatto, with a white wife. He was possessed of more means than any other of his party, and had been very generous in helping the other immigrants. In turn they were grateful to him, and they were going to stand by him through thick and thin. As he could not legally remain within the jurisdic- tion of Oregon, he concluded to stay in that part in doubt, just outside, and that seemed to be under another flag. The others stayed by him, the whole party remaining for nearly a year on the north side of the Columbia, close to the Hudson Bay fort. Simmons early in the winter made a canoe trip up the Cowlitz River, and the next summer made another trip with several companions to Puget Sound and down the Sound to Whidby Island. Upon returning, he induced Bush, McAllister, Crockett, and the ​150 THOMAS W. PROSCH. others to pack up and start for new homes on the Sound. The trip was a hard one, as they had to make the road as they went. They found John R. Jackson, an Englishman, then locating on the way, and they met Lieutenants Warre and Vavasour, of the Royal Engineers, spying out the land for the government of Great Britain. They were not to be deterred by anything, however, and soon had settled themselves at or near the head waters of Puget Sound. There Simmons began a town called then Newmarket but now Tumwater. Bush took a claim on a nearby prairie, which has since gone by his name. It will not be out of the way to here say that the provisional legislature of Ore- gon removed Bush's civil disability, and that Congress by special law gave him six hundred and forty acres of land. These men made the country known. It was no longer a closed book. Ford, Sylvester, Rabbeson, Chambers, Ebey, Lansdale, Collins, Maynard, and many more were soon on the ground. The Oregon legislature reached over and took them in. County after county was created north of the river, and the handful of men of 1845 increased to a thousand in number by 1851. With this increase came strength and confidence. The burden of sustaining a gov- ernment in a region where the distances were so great and the costs of travel in time and money so large became daily more apparent. Some jealousy and local feeling were also displayed. The river was a distinct line of demarka- tion. Northern Oregon was a term that came into use for that portion on one side of the river, on the other side being Oregon. On that side they were in the majority, and though there is no reason for supposing that they made improper use of their power, the fact that they might do so was a little galling, as also the knowledge that in territorial matters the northern section was not likely to get any substantial good that was wanted in the south​POLITICAL BEGINNING OF WASHINGTON. 151 ern. As a consequence agitation began in favor of a sep- arate territorial organization. One feature of the celebration of the national holiday at Olympia, July 4, 1851, was an address by John B. Chap- man, who touched a popular chord by a happy reference to "the future State of Columbia." His hearers were so affected that an adjourned meeting was held, at which Clanrick Crosby presided and A. M. Poe served as secre- tary. From this meeting went out a call for a convention at Cowlitz on the 29th of August, "to be composed of rep- resentatives from all of the election precincts north of the Columbia," as was stated, " to take into careful considera- tion the present peculiar position of the northern portion of the Territory, its wants, the best method of supplying these wants, and the propriety of an early appeal to Con- gress for a division of the Territory." Attending a convention in those days was a matter of much difficulty. There was a general lack of means of communication steamboats, mails, roads, newspapers. The settlements extended north of Steilacoom, a few per- sons, in addition, dwelling on Whidby Island. There were military posts at Vancouver and Steilacoom ; Hudson Bay posts at the same places and a farm in Cowlitz Valley ; Catholic missions at Vancouver, Cowlitz, and Olympia ; the beginnings of towns at Steilacoom, Olympia, Turn- water, and Vancouver ; with farms dotting the country in the vicinity of these places and along the traveled high- ways. It took a day then to go as far as one can go now in an hour, and it meant travel in canoe, on foot, and oc- casionally by horse. It meant, too, the lack of public ac- commodations along the line, with the common feeling that the traveler was one of many who necessarily were imposing upon those living by the way. It meant nights on the beach and nights in the woods ; hunger, labor, ex- haustion, and possibly sickness. The pecuniary expense ​152 THOMAS W. PROSCH. was serious, too, as money then was a scarce article, and the settlers were poor. Under the circumstances it was astonishing when the day arrived to find so many citizens at Cowlitz. Those participating were : Thomas M. Cham- bers, Seth Catlin, Jonathan Burbee, Robert Huntress, Ed- ward D. Warbass, John R. Jackson, William L. Fraser, Simon Plomondon, S. S. Saunders, A. B. Dillenbaugh, Marcel Bernier, Sidney S. Ford, James Cochran, Joseph Borst, Michael T. Simmins, Clanrick Crosby, Joseph Bro- shears, Andrew J. Simmons, A. M. Poe, David S.Maynard, Daniel F. Brownfield, John Bradley, J. B. Chapman, H. C. Wilson, John Edgar, and Francis S. Balch. Seth Catlin, known to his admiring friends as "the Sage of Monti- cello," was president, and A. M. Poe and F. S. Balch, sec- retaries. Two days the convention lasted. Committees were appointed on Territorial Government, Districts and Counties, Rights and Privileges of Citizens, Internal Im- provements, and Ways and Means. The Committee on Territorial Government reported in favor of the creation and organization of a Territory north of the Columbia River, and the delegate from Oregon was requested to do all he could to secure action from Congress of the character indicated. John B. Chapman, Michael T. Simmons, and Francis S. Balch were appointed a com- mittee to prepare a memorial upon the subject and push the project to a successful termination. The Committee on Counties recommended the creation of four new counties. For one the name of Simmons was urged, and for another the name of Steilacoom. The legislature granted the request in the case of one county only. It was about to create Simmons County, but M. T. Simmons, who was to be so honored, protested, and the name was changed to Thurston. When Chapman saw that Steilacoom County would not be established, but that instead his town of Steilacoom would be included in ​POLITICAL BEGINNING OF WASHINGTON. 153 Thurston County, he tried to have Steilacoom made the county seat, but Simmons was too strong for him, and it was located at Olympia instead. A year later December, 1852 Pierce County was created and Steilacoom became a county seat, much to Chapman's gratification. Doctor Maynard went further at the Cowlitz Convention than was at first contemplated. He proposed a resolution that when the convention adjourn it be to meet again in May, 1852, for the purpose of forming a constitution pre- paratory to asking admission into the Union as one of the States. His resolution was adopted by unanimous vote. This was a remarkable proposition in many respects. At the time the territory affected was part of a region from which it could not alienate itself, and the other part was in population at least eight times the greater. At the rate the inhabitants were increasing, there would have been fifteen hundred or two thousand people in the new state at admission, if admission were not delayed beyond the evi- dent anticipations of the convention members. When the Territory was finally admitted, in 1889, the people num- bered 300,000, and Oklahoma is kept in territorial con- dition to-day with 600,000 inhabitants. It may be that upon sober second thought the people saw the impossi- bility, the utter futility, if not absurdity, of the idea, for the May convention suggested was not held, and for a short time the matter even of a territory seems to have been suspended. It was a short time only, however. On the 4th of July, 1852, Daniel R. Bigelow delivered a patriotic address at Olympia, in which he once more presented the subject to an appreciative and sympathetic audience. In September the first newspaper north of "the River of the W^est" made its appearance at Olympia. It at once began to advocate the Territory of Columbia. So confident were the pub- lishers of the creation of the territory, and of the bestowal ​154 THOMAS W. PROSCH. upon it of that name, that they called their paper the Columbian. It was well conducted, ably edited, and in- fluential. A term of the district court was held at John R. Jackson's on the 26th and 27th of October, at which time the matter was discussed by those in attendance. As a result a call went out for another convention to be held at Monticello November 25, 1852, when questions similar to those previously discussed at Cowlitz would be considered. The most ardent advocates of a new territory were the people living farthest north, particularly Puget Sound. It was recognized that those living on and near the north bank of the Columbia had less reason for separation from those on the south bank than others more remote had. It would not be unlikely, in fact, that in the new territory they would be farther from the capital and the center of population than they were under the conditions prevail- ing. It was determined to placate these people as far as possible, and with this idea in view the convention called for at the Jackson meeting was located at Monticello. Monticello was a small place that for twenty years had prominence as a transfer point on the route between Puget Sound and Portland. The building of the North- ern Pacific railroad and the town of Kalama killed it in the early seventies. The convention met as called. An inspection of the list of delegates developed the fact that the area repre- sented in the Cowlitz meeting the year before had grown in settlements and population, and that at least one place had since sprung into existence that was inhabited by men of ambition, enterprise, and public spirit. Though far to the north, it had sent eight of the forty-four dele- gates present. This new place was called Seattle. One of the eight was George N. McConaha, who was made president, and another, R. J. White, was made secretary. ​POLITICAL BEGINNING OF WASHINGTON. 155 Another new place, still farther north, was also repre- sented, Port Townsend. The full membership was com- posed of the following named men : George N. McConaha, R. J. White, William N. Bell, Luther M. Collins, Arthur A. Denny, Charles C. Terry, David S. Mayhard, John N. Low, C. S. Hathaway, A. Cook, N. Stone, Calvin H. Hale, Edward J. Allen, John R. Jackson, Fred A. Clarke, A. Wylie, Andrew J. Simmons, Michael T. Simmons, Loren B. Hastings, B. C. Armstrong, Sidney S. Ford, W. A. L. McCorkle, N. Ostrander, E. L. Ferrick, Quincy A. Brooks, Henry Miles, E. H. Winslow, G. B. Roberts, L. A. Davis, S. D. Ruddell, A. B. Dillenbaugh, William Plumb, Seth Catlin, Simon Plomondon, G. Drew, H. A. Goldsborough, H. C. Wilson, J. Fowler, H. D. Huntington, A. Crawford, C. F. Porter, Simpson P. Moses, A. F. Scott, and P. W. Crawford. A memorial was adopted asking of Congress creation of the territory of Columbia, the southern and eastern bound- ary suggested being the Columbia River, the northern and western being the 49th parallel and the Pacific Ocean, about 32,000 square miles from the 340,000 then said to be Oregon. Reasons were given why this should be done, and the memorial, signed by all, was sent to Washington City. The Oregon legislature, soon after in session, adopted a memorial of similar purport, and Joseph Lane, then dele- gate in Congress, did what he could to accomplish the de- sired end. The bill was amended so as to make the new territory include a much greater area, and the name was changed from Columbia to Washington. It passed in March and was approved by President Fillmore. Franklin Pierce became President immediately after- wards, and he appointed the first officers. They were Isaac Ingalls Stevens, Governor, and Superintendent of Indian Affairs ; Charles H. Mason, Secretary ; J. Patton Anderson, Marshal; John S. Clendenin, Attorney; Ed​156 THOMAS W. PROSCH. ward Lander, Victor Monroe, and Obadiah B. McFadden, justices of the district and supreme courts. Owing to the fact that to him had been assigned the additional task of examining the country between the upper Mississippi River, and Puget Sound, for the purpose of ascertaining the practicability of a northern railroad route to the Pa- cific, Governor Stevens was delayed several months in arriving in the new Territory. When he reached the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, he formerly pro- claimed the Territory of Washington, and upon arrival at Olympia issued another proclamation, establishing judi- cial and election precincts, and ordering the first election ; also directing the legislators elected to meet at Olympia, February 27th following. A delegate to Congress was to be elected at the same time. This important event oc- curred on the 30th of January, 1854. There were twenty polling places, or precincts, in the eight counties ; Belling- ham then being in Island County, Willapa in Thurston County, and Walla Walla in Clark County. At the elec- tion the nine men here named were chosen for the legis- lative council: D. F. Bradford, William H. Tappan, Seth Catlin, Henry Miles, D. R. Bigelow, B. F. Yantis, Lafa- yette Balch, George N. McConaha, and W. T. Say ward ; and the following named eighteen for the house of representa- tives : Francis A. Chenoweth, Henry R. Crosbie, Andrew J. Bolon, John D. Biles, A. Lee Lewis, Samuel D. Howe, Daniel F. Brownfield, Arthur A. Denny, H. D. Huntington, John R. Jackson, Jehu Scudder, John M. Chapman, Henry C. Mosely, Levant F. Thompson, Leonard D. Durgin, Cal- vin H. Hale, David Shelton, and Ira Ward. A strange fatality was connected with one legislative district Pa- cific County. Its only member, Jehu Scudder, died about the time the session began ; Henry Fiester was elected to succeed him, but died before taking office; James C. Strong was then elected, and qualified a few days before the ses​POLITICAL BEGINNING OF WASHINGTON. 157 sion ended. The man who was first nominated for this legislative seat, and who would certainly have been elected, as there was no opposing candidate, died also before the day of election, and Scudder was put on the ticket in his stead. This was practically three deaths in one office in three months, none of the men getting near enough to it to be sworn in. George N. McConaha was president of the council and F. A. Chenoweth speaker of the house. B. F. Kendall was chief clerk of the house, and Morris H. Frost chief clerk of the council for a few days, he being succeeded by Elwood Evans. The legislature elected J. W. Wiley, Public Printer ; William Cook, Treasurer ; Benja- min F. Kendall, Librarian ; Daniel R. Bigelow, Auditor, and Francis A. Chenoweth, Frank Clark, and Daniel R. Bigelow, prosecuting attorneys of the three judicial dis- tricts. With a full corps of United States appointees ; with a congressional delegate, Columbia Lancaster ; with a law- making power in session, and with territorial officers as stated, Washington was fairly launched upon the sea of time, fully equipped and thoroughly provided for the long and prosperous voyage before it. It is not going too far to say that no State of the Amer- ican Union was more favored in its pioneer citizens than our own. The men whose names are recited in this nar- rative were fair illustrations of the body of the people of Oregon and Washington. The past tense in this state- ment is used advisedly, for with perhaps half a dozen exceptions, all are now gone to that other land and that blessed reward which their good works here on earth en- titled them to. These men were large -of brain, large of heart, strong, courageous, public spirited. They proba- bly did not realize how well they were building ; but it was their nature to do well, their training, their fixed habit. We of the second generation are the gainers thereby, and with us the whole world. These men would ​have distinguished themselves in any community within our national borders. In honoring their memories we honor ourselves, honor our State, arid honor those who come after us for all time. The names of McLoughlin, Whitman, Eells, Simmons, Bush, Evans, Stevens, McFadden, Denny, Warbass, Bigelow, Shaw, Brooks, Lander, and the others are inseparably connected with one of the best chapters of the world's history—a chapter of peace, plenty, and progress—the chapter that includes our own Territory and State of Washington.

​

Leaving the Galapagos Islands for the North Pacific Coast.

10th.—To-day we left James's Island & in the evening we passed Albemarle Island. We were much surprised to see a fire on the beach, & on burning a blue light the signal was in some degree answered by an increase of the fire on the shore; this left little doubt in our minds that there were some European castaways on shore, who in all likelihood belonged to some South sea whaler.

21st. To-day rather blowy & numerous herds [of] fish sporting about the vessel, & we succeeded in obtaining two species. One species proved to be the [illegible] & the other was a Diodon, which I have preserved in spirits. When inflated the fish is of an orbicular shape. The back is of a blue colour & interspersed with dark purple spots; belly white; a purple line about half an inch in breadth runs across the throat from one eye to the other. Eyes large; iris, azure blue. The whole body is covered with spines; those of the back arise from a purple base & have white points; the belly spines are entirely white. Pectoral fins placed at the posterior side of the bronchial aperture, of a blue colour, rays about 1% bifurcating towards the margins of the fin. Dorsal fin situated near the caudal, with fine purple spots at the base; margin green. Anal fin opposite the dorsal free from spots. Caudal fin of six rays with many spots generally placed at the base of the rays. Bronchial apertures somewhat semilunar. Lips fleshy ​160 DR. JOHN SCOULER. & loose. Tongue fleshy ; its point covered by a semilunar membrane fixed to the lower jaw. This animal is eden- tulous. Xiphias velifer [Xiphias gladiust]. Body somewhat roundish ; becoming very slender before it terminates in the tail, this part is curvated [?]. Gills 5 on each side ; internal ones bilamellar, exterior one single. No swimming bladder. The intestines are very simple, they consist of a stomach which forms almost a cul-de-sac ; & where it narrows & immerges into the small intestine is enveloped by the lobes of the liver. The stomach contained a num- ber of small flying fish & a sepia ; its internal surface has many longitudinal plicse. A short & straight gut goes from the stomach to the anus. Liver about fills the whole abdomen ; at its anterior extremity it is thick & lobulated, towards its caudal it becomes thin. Spleen small & black. 27th. A great many birds of the sub-genus Sula have been flying about the. vessel and several of them have alighted on the rigging. From the descriptions of Cuvier & Temminck this bird in all probability is the Pelecanus bassanus of Linneus & the Sula abba [?] of modern orni- thologists. 28th. Saw abundance of porpoises of two different species, probably Delphinus Gladiator & D. phosena [?] of Lacep^de. February 17thi During the very bad weather we have experienced of late, many albatross have been seen & to-day we succeeded in obtaining four of them. In their plumage & internal organisation they differed in no re- spect from those I dissected of[f] Terra del Fuego. It may be proper to notice some mistakes into which Cuvier has fallen, in his Regne Animal with respect to this bird. He says : Us habitent tous les mers Australes, vivent de frofde poissou de mollusques : Regne Animal, p. 1, +517. ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 161 He also mentions the D. exulans as being a great enemy to the flying fish. The first of these mistakes, that the- Diomedea is entirely an antar[c]tic bird, we have now had abundant means of rectifying & saw the bird in equal abundance in 40 degrees north latitude as we did of[f] Cape Horn. It is, however, a remarkable circumstance that these birds should be found in such plenty in the N. Pacific, while not a single individual has ever been found in the North Atlantic. M. Cuvier also represents the D. exulans as living very much on flying fish. During all our voyage we never saw an albatross within many degrees of the region of flying fish. I have noticed these errors because they are the only ones I ever could detect in the Regne Animal of this distinguished naturalist, & who is undoubtedly better acquainted with the structure of organized bodies than any man in Europe. 24th. This afternoon an unfortunate accident hap- pened to the boatswain, who, in consequence of a fall, broke his thigh bone. This misfortune was occasioned by the slippery state of the decks from being continually wet. On getting brought to his bed I found the fracture was in the middle third of the femur & the upper part of the bone had nearly protruded through the skin. The leg of the same side had suffered very much by a previ- ous compound fracture, & at present it has been a good deal hurt. I found no more difficulty in the reduction than what was occasioned by the motion of the vessel. We soon found that it was impossible for our patient to remain in his bed with any degree of comfort & got a cot arranged for him in the cabin. In this case I adopted Potts' plan in preference to that of Desoult, because on account of the injury his leg had sustained splints were more unbearable on his leg[?] than on his thigh. March 5th. Of late we have had no amelioration of the weather, & my patient has suffered in proportion. His ​leg & knee, however, give him much more pain than his thigh, so as to require fomentations & frequently it is essential to slacken the bandage to give him some relief.

Great quantities of Velella are to be seen in every direction around us. They resemble a good deal those of the Atlantic; but are not so large. The tentaculæ are of an azure colour. The concave part of the animal is red & the crest is rather lighter than in the Atlantic ones.

25th.—We have now been 73 days from the Galapagos & great part of that time we have experienced very severe weather, so that we have seldom been 24 hours at a time free from close reefed topsails. The effect of this weather on the boatswain has been such as to spoil the sanguine hopes I had entertained of a perfect cure. The pain has been so great at times to oblige me to get up during the night to relax the dressings for some time & to give opium.

28th.—For the last three days the weather has been more moderate & has produced a beneficial effect on my patient's comfort & spirits.

We procured a very large mass of sea weed that was floating past us; it measured about 40 feet. The stipes was round, tapering & fistulary; it swelled into ampullæ in many parts, which were hollow, & some of them measured 14 inches in circumference. From these ampullæ proceeded the frondose part, which was long & ensate; but I could detect no appearance of fructification. Among the roots of the plant several curious animals were found; probably more interesting than the plant they inhabited. I found a species of Asterias, two species of Cancer & several other articulate & several Sertularia, the most beautifull & delicate of all the coralline animals.

April 3d.—This morning we saw Cape Dissapointment, a circumstance we had long & anxiously wished for; & there was not an individual of our little society who did [not] feel pleased at the prospect of speadily reaching the ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 163 object of our long & stormy passage. Our attempt to cross the bar, however, was unsuccessful! & we were under the mortifying necessity of putting again to sea. On the 7th we made another attempt & before the evening we were safely at anchor in Bakers bay. We lay about i of a mile from the shore, & opposite two small rocky islands, which lay at the bottom of the bay. The land is very steap & uneven, but is covered completely by pine trees. 9th.- We 'were this morning pleased by a scene that was new to all of us, several canoes were seen approaching the ship & in a short time three of them were alongside of us. On coming on board they behaved with the utmost propriety ; but from what we could understand of their signs we suspected the state of affairs among them was very unsettled. We ascertained from them that most of the white men had gone up the river & left Ft. George, & by taking a knife & putting it to their breast we concluded that some murder had lately taken place. The dress of the men consisted of a robe of skin, which was thrown loosely over their shoulders, & alike useless for the purpose of decency or of comfort. Their hats were made of straw very neatly plaited, and were of a conical sugar loaf shape. The dress of the women was more de- cent, & consisted of a petticoat which reached to the knee. It was made of many strings placed exceedingly thick to- gether & must afford considerable warmth. Over this they wear the same skin robe as the men. Among those [who] were permitted to come on board was a man dressed in European clothes, & who appeared to be of some consequence among them ; his wife who ac- companied him was dressed with red cloth & was the most intelligent person among them. She knew a good many English & a few French words. They were well provided with arms of different kinds ; in addition to their bows & arrows, every canoe had several fowling pieces & a plen​164 DR. JOHN SCOULER. tifull supply of daggers of different shapes. We feasted these people on bread & molasses, & they appeared well pleased with their repast, after it was concluded they left us, after behaving in the most peac[e]able manner. They were all of a very moderate stature, none of them exceeding 5-J- feet. Their hair is long, straight & black, their colour olive, inclining to coppery ; none of them had any beards. Their limbs are straight ; but the gastrocne- mius wants the roundness which is admired in Europeans. The eyes are of a dark colour, & the iris very black, cheek bones rather prominent, face round ; mouth large ; nose rather flat. These characters approximate them in some respects to the Mongolian race, with the ^Etheopii they have manner of affinity. In the afternoon in company with Mr. Douglass I made a short visit to the shore. The first we collected on North American continent was the charming Gaultheria Shallon, in an excellent condition. We then penetrated into those primeval forests never before explored by the curiosity of the botanist. Here the lover of musci & lichens enjoys ample opportunity of studying his favorite plants. The moisture of the climate is very favourable to the growth & variety of these plants & the trees & rocks are covered by them. During this excursion we saw none of our new friends, the Indians. 10th. We landed again in Bakers bay, with the inten- tion of going across Cape Dissapointment to the ocean. In this journey we met with many difficulties, not only from the steapness of the rocks, but from the deap pools of fresh water which were to[o] deap to pass. Our excur- sion was also obstructed by the immense profusion of G. Shallon. The coast to the north of Cape Dissapointment is very precipitous & it is dangerous to climb among them. From their soft nature they are rapidly broken down by the breakers, which wash against them with ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 165 great violence. Along the coast are many deap canons which the tide fills at high water. In this situation the eagle takes up his abode in a situation congenial to his nature, & two of these animals devouring a duck added wildness to the scene. llth. We are still attended by several canoes, but they bring us no fresh provisions, the only articles of trade they bring are hats, bows & arrows & other articles of In- dian manufactory. These they barter for knives, buttons & other trinkets. The most curious ornament they pos- sess is a shell which they suspend from their ears, & which appears to be a species of Dentalium. The Indians con- tinue to behave very peac[e]ably towards us, although it is apparent that the utmost distrust prevails among them- selves. 12th. To-day we landed (well craved) at Ft. George, & were received in a very polite manner by Mr. McKenzie, the only gentleman at present at the fort. He informed us that the other gentlemen were employed in building a new fort, about 80 miles further up the river, at Point Van- couver, & Ft. George had been ceded to the Americans by the treaty of Ghent, & they were expected to take posses- sion of it very soon. We were informed by Mr. McKen- zie of the cause of the suspicious appearance we had seen among the Indians. Comcomli or Madsu who is the great- est chief upon the river had lost two of his sons. W T hile these two young men were sick Comcomli had placed them under the care of a neighbouring chief who pretended to great skill in medicine, & cured diseases by singing over his patients. Under this method [of] cure both the young, chiefs died, & the medicine chief was accused of procur- ing their death by enchantment. The belief in magical agency which seams to belong to every savage tribe, & exists equally among the degraded natives of the coast of ​166 DR. JOHN SCOULER. Guinea, & the acute people of Carybee, reigns with no less force among the tribes of the Columbia. To revenge this imaginary crime, the remaining son of Comcomli had assassinated the medicine chief, & it was now expected that his friends, who are both numerous & powerful, would attempt to revenge his death. To-morrow in all probability a battle will take place, as old Oomcomli is going to visit the graves of his sons, who are buried near the village of the murdered chief. We made a short excursion to the neighbouring woods, & collected a good number of Musci & Jungermannias be- sides Pha3nogamous plants. On our return we ventured into an Indian house, but the reception we experienced rendered it prudent to leave it as soon as possible. Two of the Indians drew their daggers, an insult of which we were obliged to take no notice. Ft. George is a square building, consisting entirely of wood, & situated about 100 yards from the river. It is surrounded by palisades & furnished with bastions. The entrance looks towards the river & opens into a large square court. On the West side of this court are the stores & warehouses, on the opposite one the houses of the people & the shops of the mechanics. On the south side is a large building containing a messroom & the apartments of the gentlemen. They have cleared about 80 acres of land, on which they cultivate potatoes; & the woods afford plenty of pasturage to their cattle, which, however, are not very numerous. They have only hogs brought from Owyhee & bullocks from Monterey. A little to the west of the factory is the Indian village, it [is] sit- uated on a low sandy beach & is sheltered on the south side by a forest of pine trees, many of them of immense height. This village consists of about a dozen houses, but many of them are large & many have from 15 to 30 inmates. ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 167 . Since we have been in the Columbia River the rain has been incessent, & we have not had six [days] of uninterrupted dry weather since we anchored in Bakers bay. The rain detained us on board yesterday, & although it was very little better to-day we made an excursion to the shore. On arriving at the Fort we were informed that a battle had taken place among the Indians & one man had been killed & two severely wounded. To-day we had the opportunity of seeing the War Dance of the Indians. About 50 men paraded from the vicinity of the fort to the beach, they moved at a most grotesque pace, keeping their feet in the same position with respect to another as nearly as possible. On their progress to the beach they fired their fowling pieces & set up the most disagre[ejable howling I ever heard ; they then formed a circle round theirs, & continued their dance, making a general yell every two or three minutes. Many of them were armed with fowling pieces others had bows & arrows & all of them had knives. They each of them [wore] a war dress consisting of dressed elk skin, which went over them like a shirt without sleeves. This war dress, although a poor defence against fire arms, is said to be arrow proof. The warriors were painted of every sort of colour, but princi- pally black, red & yellow. Their music consisted of a number of shells of Pecten marina tied to a stick, which they rattled during the whole of their manoeuvres. In the afternoon I had an interview with the old chief Com- comli or Madsu, as he is now called. He is an old man of about 60 & blind of an eye. He is at present in deap mourning for his sons ; his mourning consists in putting on the worst clothing he can possibly procure, & abstain- ing from washing ; in that condition he continues for eighteen or twenty months. The change of names among the Cheenooks depends upon a curious feeling & is well illustrated in the case of ​168 DR. JOHN SCOULER. Comcomli. The old man had conferred his name & au- thority on one of his deceased sons, on his death the name forever ceased to be used among his countrymen as being unlucky & calling to remembrance a lamented chief ; hence it is esteemed cruel & unfeeling ever to pro- nounce it; & when they speak of the deceased chief they say the old man's favorite son, or some such expression. 15th. In my wandering through the woods to-day I met with many Indians, chiefly women & children, who were employed in gathering the young shoots of Equisetum arvense, which is eaten by these people as we do asparagus, & has a similar taste. To-day I collected a considerable number of cryptog- am ous plants, & none of the plants I ever met with on the N. W. coast gave me greater pleasure than Hookeria lanus. I found beautifull specimens of the charming little plant, with its constant attendant, Hypnum Splendens, growing by the margins of a shady rivulet among a brush wood composed of Menziesia ferruginea. This pleasing occurence brought to my memory in a vivid manner, the delightful excursions I had made in a far distant country where I imbibed a love for natural history from the ex- ample of him whose name it bears, & the instruction it was his pleasure to communicate. 16th. This morning I had the pleasure of being in- troduced to Dr. McLachlan [McLoughlin] the chief factor of the H. B. Company on this side of the Rocky Mountains. From him I experienced the utmost politeness & to his kindness was indebted for some curious specimens of the rocks of the Rocky Mountains. 17th. Mr. Douglass & myself made a journey to Tongue Point, about 5 miles from Fort George. Our journey was fatiguing, as we had to climb over rocks to penetrate dense brush wood & damp marshes. Seldom have I made an excursion attended by more interesting results. My vas​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 169 cula & handkerchiefs were filled with mosses and land shells; phrenogamous plants were abundant; the pools along the banks of the river contained plenty of fluviatile crabs ; and the features of the rocks gave me a clear idea of the geological structure of the surrounding country. I may here condense all the geological facts respecting this country I have been able to collect. There are no high mountains within thirty miles of Fort George. The country consists of sloping hills of gradual ascent & regular outline, quite free from the rugged & barren ap- pearance of the primitive formations. From the soft nature of the rocks of the Columbia & from the great size of the river during the summer months, immense quantities of sand are deposited in different situations. From the abundance of these materials the numerous al- luvial islands of the Columbia are deposited & banks & shoals are formed in every part of the river. These islands are some of them two or three miles in extent, & would afford the richest agricultural returns, if they were not annually covered by the waters of the river dur- ing two months of the year. All the mud & sand of the river is not thus deposited; part of it is carried out to the ocean, & by the action of the Westerly winds, which blow three fourths of the year, it is accumulated at the mouth of the river & forms the chief danger of the navigator who visits the Columbia. Point Adams on the South side of the river seams to be entirely an alluvial deposition, formed by the united efforts of the sea & river. On going [to] the north of Cape Dissapointment we find the same causes operating there. The [sea] has undoubtedly made considerable encroachments on the rocks, but this opera- tion must be diminished yearly from the effects of its own efforts. The rocks are worn away & disintegrated & deap & capacious caverns excavated in their sides, but ​170 DR. JOHN SCOULER. these very ruins, by being thrown up in the form of sand banks, defend them from further encroachments. It is, however, obvious that all the sand in the neighborhood of Cape Dissapointment is not from its own disintegration, perhaps more than the half of it is derived from the depo- sitions at the mouth of the Columbia; & this opinion amounts to certainty when we witness the enormous quantity of driftwood which is no doubt derived from the same source. The rocks in the vicinity of the Columbia River appear to be entirely calcareo[u]s, & this character seams to ex- tend from the Cascades to the ocean. To pronounce a decided opinion of the rocks of the Cascades would be exceedingly rash, as I have never had an opportunity of visiting that part of the country ; but from the specimens I have received from there by Mr. Douglass, & from the phenomena of saline springs, there can be little doubt of the character of the prevailing rocks. At the Cascades silicified woods abound, & often very fine specimens are found ; the fibrous texture is still preserved, the colour is pale ferruginous brown, & they are hard, but may be scratched by the knife. Rocks are also found there ap- proaching to the character of calcareous tufa ; they are coarse grained, of a white colour, & easily reduced to grains, & often contains pebbles disseminated through it. The rocks from Cape Dissapointment to Tongue Point were more within the sphere of my observation & their study afforded many interesting facts. These rocks are of a dark leaden colour & of a very soft consistence, & are rapidly worn away by the rains & water torrents. They are of moderate height, & very commonly caverns are ex- cavated in them. It is exceedingly probable that these rocks are connected with the series of magnesian lime- stone formation. They contain imbedded masses of a spherical shape, & varying in size from that of a hazelnut ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 171 to the size of a cannon ball. They are much harder than the rocks in which they are contained & resist for a much longer time the action of the weather. On some parts of the rocks I detected a white efflorescence, but in such small quantities that I could not detect its composition ; it was, however, insipid. The water that issued through this magnesian limestone deposits some ferruginous mat- ter, indicating that a small portion of iron enters into the composition of the rock. The limestone is traversed by veins of two different substances, sandstone & carbornate of lime, in the form of spar. The calcareous veins are very small, not above 4 inches in breadth. Their occurrence is by no means frequent, the only place where I saw them was near Cape Dissapointment. The standstone veins ar very common on the side of the river. This sandstone is of a very coarse, granular texture, & is soft & friable. These veins are about the breadth of 3 feet in general & have little inclination. They resist the action of the air longer than the limestone, as in many places the lime- stone is washed away & the more durable veins remain like small dykes. The fossil contents of this rock, although not very varied, are abundant. They consist as far as my examination extended entirely of shells. A [illegible] of large size and good preservation was by no means un- common. The handsomest shell may probably [be] a spe- cies of Venus. Those parts of the rock that were unusually hard were the richest in this shell ; but easily fell out en- tire from a smart blow of the hammer. I also found great abundance of a small species of , & very imperfect fragments of a species of Solen. Such is the geological structure of the country about Ft. George as far [as] my observations extended. But from the limited opportunity I had of penetrating far into the interior of the country, of course it was only in my power to give a general idea of its geology, & not to enter into those interesting details, ​172 DR. JOHN SCOULER. which could only be obtained by more extensive observa- tions. However, the knowledge I have been able to acquire is, I think, decisive as to the geological features of the country in the vicinity of the sea, and to render it probable that a similar range of calcareous formations exists towards the Cascades at the distance of a hundred and fifty miles from the sea. What is made certain by the fossils of the coast is, I think, made equally obvious with regard to the interior from its calcareous tufa and abundant saline springs: namely, that all the rocks of this part of the country be- long, or are subordinate, to the magnesian series. Saline springs are by no means uncommon through the country, and I succe[e]ded in procuring a quantity of water from one of them. 22d. We have now so completely ransacked the neigh- borhood of Ft. George, that very few new plants now at- tract our notice, and our impatience is obliged to wait till the progress of spring lays open more plants to our curi- osity. In this delemma I set out in quest of animals and was tolerabley successfull. Among the wood [I] found two very line species of land [illegible^ & in the water near the margins of the river I detected abundance of a beautifull fluviatile Turbo furnished with an operculum, & with very deap ribs. In the same situation I obtained a fine species of Astacus, that takes up his abode under stones in the same situation with the Turbo, which seams to form his principal food & in his turn is devoured by the ravens, which are very abundant along the beach. 29th. This morning I set out on a visit to Ft. Van- couver, & I undertook this with the more pleasure, as I had every reason to believe the vegetation would be con- siderably different from that of the coast. Our party consisted of 5 canoes, superintended by Mr. McKay. As the wind was favourable we made rapid ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 173 progress & in the evening we slept at Oak Point, 30 miles from Ft. George. As far as I could judge the rocks on the banks of the river appeared to belong to the trap class ; but I had no opportunity of landing to examine them. 30th. We were detained to gum two of our canoes, which gave me an opportunity of seeking for a few plants. The soil of Oak Point is marshy & alluvial, & the only vegetables that abound on it are Cyperacetv, of which I amassed many species. One of the Canadians killed a fine species of Hydrophis, which I lost no time in prepar- ing the best way I could. I stuffed it with moss, but un- fortunately I had no preserving powder, a thing so essential this season. In the stomach of this serpent I found a large bullfrog (Rana tourina) and several elytrae of Dytis- cus marginalis. Our progress to-day was very slow, as the wind was un- favourable & required that we should make frequent de- lays, which enabled me to obtain some excellent plants, viz., Cornus Canadensis, 2 sp. Myosotis, 1 sp. of Fedice^?] 1 of Valeriana, & some Ranunculi. At the place where we encamped in the evening we found a Canadian of the name of Gervais going to Ft. George to obtain medical advice for his child. On going to the patient, I found a poor girl in the last stages of enteritis and no chance of its surviving for many hours. I encouraged him to hasten to the Fort and gave him a note to Mr. McKenzie for such medicines as might have a chance of being usefull. May 1st. We made very little progress on account of the strong wind that blew directly down the river. d. To-day at 11 o'clock we arrived at Ft. Vancouver, where I experienced the most polite reception from every gentleman belonging to it. On rejoining my fellow trav- eller, Mr. Douglass, we made an excursion to Menzies island, where we found many interesting plants. These plants on this island belonged chiefly to the classes Com​174 DR. JOHN SCOULER. positie & Leguminosss, the Phlox linear is, Collomia linearis, Nuttall, & a beautifull Myosotis, which, as being the most beautifull nondescript plant we had yet seen, from the allusion contained in the Scotch name for the genus, we agread to honour this plant with the name of M. Hookeri. Ft. Vancouver is built on the same plan as the other fort, but is not so large. Its situation is far more pleas- ant than that of Ft. George. It is situated in the middle of a beautifull prairie, containing about 300 acres of ex- cellent land, on which potatoes & other vegetables are cultivated ; while a large plain between the fort and river affords abundance of pasture to 120 horses, besides other cattle. The forests around the fort consists chiefly of Pinue balsamea & P. canadensis, while most amentacese are exceedingly rare. Within a short distance of the fort I found several interesting plants, as Phalangium esculen- tum, Berberis nervosa, B. Aquifolium, Calypso borealis & Corallorhiza innata. The root of the Phalangium esculen- tem is much used by the natives as a substitute for bread. They grow abundantly in the moist prairies, the flower is usually blue, but sometimes white flowers are found. The bulbs are about the size of those of the Hyacinthus Men- seriptus [?], & are collected by women & children. In their present state they have a slightly sweetish taste, but when cooked they acquire the flavor of molasses. The Indians have two methods of preparing these roots : they sometimes boil them & eat them cold ; but their more favourite method is to compact them into a cake, which they bake by placing it under heated stones & covering them with hot ashes. Baked in this manner they are very palatable. 5th. To-day found some Indian boys fishing ; the fish they caught appeared to be a sp. of Clupea ; on obtaining & dissecting a specimen of this fish all ambiguity as to its genus was removed. It had no maxillary teeth. At the ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 175 commencement of the sesophagus, & behind the gills, there are two bones of a curvated shape & each containing 5 teeth. Liver large & many-lobed, "some of the lobes ex- tending to the anus. Swimming bladder large, intestines simple. 10th. Since my arrival here my time has been entirely occupied in making excursions in every direction around the fort, & I had no reason to be dissatisfied with my col- lection. llth. To-day set out on my journey to the coast & bade a sincere farewell to the gentlemen of the establishment in whose society I had spent some pleasant hours. On our journey to the coast we passed a great number of In- dian villages, & in all of them the inhabitants were em- ployed in fishing Salmon or Sturgeon. These villages were all of them very populous & we procured from them any quantity of Salmon we wish to purchase. About 6 miles below the Fort we found some Indians drawing their net ashore, & among the variety of fish it contained I selected two species of Cyprinus, which were new ; these specimens unfortunately became putrid before we arrived at Ft. George. While stopped to prepare our supper I made a little excursion into the woods with Mr. Douglass & found Dalibarda repens [?], a large Pyrola, & a sp. of Heuchera. 12th. After taking our supper we allowed the canoes to drift down the river & in the morning we found had gained 15 miles by this plan. At two.o'clock we were of[f] Tongue point where the first plant that attracted my notice was a beautifull & a new species of Mimulus, & we collected specimens of it with the utmost enthusiasm. This little plant grows among Musci on the wet rocks & may be called M. pusillus. It is distinguished by the following characters & is the smallest sp. of the genus. Leaf an inch in length, lower lip of the corolla spotted, leaves spatulate. ​176 DR. JOHN SCOULER. On arriving at Ft. George, I was informed that about half an hour ago, two Indians had fallen down from an attack of apoplexy ; they were crossing the river in a canoe & both of them fell senseless within ten minutes. I lost not a moment's time in going to see them. The bodies were both laid in the canoe in which they had died, & had their faces turned toward the ground. The bodies were yet warm, and the skin a dark colour. Their friends were sitting around them lamenting them, with the most dismal noise. On removing the mats in which they had been already enveloped, we found all pulsation either of the heart or great arteries gone. I opened a vein in the one who had died most recently, but with no success. In examining the bodies we received no assistance whatever from the natives ; this did not in any degree arise from an unwillingness to accept of our aid, but from an uncon- querable aversion they have to touch a dead body. Appoplexy is far from being a rare disease among the Cheenooks, & two months seldom elapse without an Indian being carried of[f] by it. This perhaps depends on the enormous quantity of fish & other kinds of animal food they eat, & their inordinate appetite for oil ; certainly few savage tribes have equal facility in procuring their favourite luxuries as the Indians of the N. W. Coast. Of the vegetables which they eat, many belong to the sus- picious order of Umbelliferse such as Heracleum, Sium, etc. 25th. My time is now divided between making ar- rangements for our voyage to the Northward & completing as far as possible my collection of Columbia plants. We are about to leave the Columbia during the finest season of the year, but I anticipate a rich harvest at Nootka & Fuca straits. 31st. We are now ready for our expedition, which promises to be of considerable interest. From the char- acter of the northern tribes, a greater degree of vigilance ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 177 & caution than is required among the friendly Cheenooks, from whom we suffered no trouble, except from their beg- ging propensities. We, however, can have no possible reason for apprehending any danger, our crew is well armed & a party of thirteen natives of Owyhee will make us perfectly secure. In the morning we landed at the Cheenook village to purchase salmon; before our departure I seized the opportunity of herborising & found some in- teresting plants as a fine sp. of Triticum & a sp. of Spirsea, 1 sp. of Trifolium. In the afternoon some of our Indian friends came on board to wish a good voyage. Among these were Kasoka & Chicuana, who had been assiduous in bring us provisions. June. On the first of June- we crossed for the second time the bar of the Columbia & stood to the north. As the wind proved constantly unfavourable we were obliged to beat up to Queen Charlotte's Island. On the 8th of June we saw the mountains of Nootka about 10 leagues distant. Continuing our voyage we saw many albatrosses, which seam to emigrate to more northern latitudes during the summer months. The sea everywhere abounds in the beautifull Velella which seams to be dispersed all over the N. Pacific, & probably forms the chief support of Diome- dea & other sea fowl which live in these latitudes. 20th. A small species of Alca [?] fell on deck. It ap- peared to be the Alca alle of Linnaeus, Uria alle, Brisson. These birds were by no means scarce about the vessel. It had the double larynx in common with its congeners. Stomach small & muscular, with many longitudinal rugae on its internal surface. The intestines had many convo- lutions. Liver consisted of two nearly equal lobes. 23d. We are now in the channel between Queen Char- lotte's Island & Pitts Archipelago, & have great quantities of Fuci afloating past us. We succeeded in obtaining a few specimens which [I] found contained several smaller ​178 DR. JOHN SCOULER. species, & to abound in marine animals, as Sertularige, Crustacese ; we also found a Halothuria & a sp. of Patella. %4,tli. This afternoon we were coasting along Q. Char- lotte's Island, & at about 6 miles distance from the shore. We passed what we took to be an Indian village, & were not dissapointed, for a canoe came of[f] to us. They in- formed us that the name of their village was Skedans [?]. They had all of them blankets, & their hats were of a much neater shape & displayed far more ingenuity than those of the Cheenooks. They were also well supplied with fire arms. These people were much taller, & more robust? than those of the South. Their hair straight & black, & was tied in a knot on the crown of their heads. Their cheek bones were prominent, & all of them had some beard. Their conduct was bold and decided, bordering on ferocity. & while on board they behaved with the utmost selfishness. They seamed, however, to be frequently vis- ited by vessels, as they mentioned the names of several that [had] lately been on the coast. %5th. We were again visited by the Queen Charlotte islanders ; for the few things they had to sell they de- manded such exorbitant prices as convinced us they were in no want of European goods. The number of English words they knew surprised us, & it was soon evident that they had acquired their knowledge of English words from the Americans. The teeth of all these Indians are re- markably poor, I suppose from the quantity of sand & filth they eat with their food. Notwithstanding our short acquaintance with these people, it is very evident that they far excell the Indians of the Columbia in manly ap- pearance, ingenuity, & facility in imitating their civilised visitors. In two respects, however, they were far inferior to Cheenooks, in cleanliness & mildness of conduct. In the afternoon we were becalmed, & the men amused themselves in fishing the Squalus Acanthias which was ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 179 here in the greatest profusion. The individuals we pro- cured were about 2 feet in length, & had white spots along their sides. The anal fins of the males has a curi- ous appendix in common with the other sp. of the genus. The appendix consists of three claws analogous to the claws of birds. All these claws are of different shapes ; one of them was quite obtuse, the middle one was hooked, the external one was quite straight. The sesophagus was furnished with tubercles, perfectly analogous to those of the marine testudines, in their structure, & probably they are for the same use. The stomach large & contained many longitudinal plicse and terminated in a very narrow pylorus. The intestinal canal was short, but exceedingly capacious, & its internal surface was furnished with a very complicated set of valvulae conniventes. The spleen & pan- creas were of moderate size. The liver was very large, & consisted of two nearly equal & very large lobes, extend- ing from above the stomach to the anus. The testicles were large, oblong ovate bodies, situated near the superior extremity of the liver ; they had very long & convoluted spermacetic tubes laying close to the spine. The ova of the female I found in all stages of development. They varied in number from twelve to fifteen. In their early stages they were perfectly spherical, & had on their sur- face a small cicatrix the size of a pea; the whole egg in this stage might be the size of a turtle's. At a more ad- vanced period, the ova exhibited a beautifull appearance ; after cutting through the membraneous & very vascular uterus, an exceedingly delicate & transparent chorion was exposed, & the young animals were seen moving about with great vivacity in an amber coloured liquor amnii. They were about two inches long, & were connected to the ovum by a short cord. When put into a bucket of sea water they moved with the utmost liveliness. ​180 DR. JOHN SCOULER. 26th. We are now off Skittigass, one of the harbours the American traders are very fond of frequenting. Many of the natives came of[f] to us in their canoes ; they were well provided with arms, as spears, bows, arrows, & mus- kets. Their fire arms are almost all obtained from the American traders, but we saw several with Russian char- acters on them. Their language had no connection with the Cheenook or Nootkan. With their imperfect English they made us understand that there was an American vessel at present in their harbour, & were very anxious we should go there. These Islanders were the most acute & ingenious people we had seen on the coast, & were very cleanly in their dress & persons. Their bows were about five feet in length, & were much stronger than those of the Cheenooks. The arrows were pointed with bone. The parts are about two inches long, & have three or four notches on each side ; they were not fixed to the arrow, but attached to it in the same manner as the iron part is attached to a harpoon. One of the Indians was very anxious to accompany us on our voyage, & we willingly accepted his offer. He in- formed us that he had already been on board several American & Russian vessels as an interpreter, & assured us that he would neither lie nor steal. From the attach- ment he expressed to the Americans, we might easily infer that they observed justice and humanity in their inter- course with the Indians. A Cheenook we had on board soon excited his contempt, & he told him that if he came to live at Skittigass he would be flogged every day unless he would pay more attention to cleanliness. 27th. T[w]o canoes came to us from a low sandy point to the N. of Skittigass, the Punta Ymbisible of Vancou- ver's chart; they behaved with great propriety & seamed well acquainted with our new interpreter, who requested a little bread from us to send to his children on shore. ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 181 29th. This morning we were becalmed off Dundass Island, on which we landed about 6 A. M. On landing we discovered many tracks of Indians, & several articles be- longing to their fishing apparatus; we saw, however, no natives. That part of the island we were on was sur- rounded by steap rocks, & the landing was rather diffi- cult. The whole island appeared to be encircled by a zone of algse. Among the rocks were many curious ma- rine animals ; the shells belonged to the genera Tuba Pa- tella & Mytillus [?]. The most interesting animal here belonged to the articulata ; it was a species of Monoculus. Among the Radiata we found Actinea, Asterise & Alcyonia. Our limited time did not allow us to make an extensive collection of plants, but those we found were very inter- esting. On the rocks near the coast we found plenty of Saxifraga & Potentilla, with abundance of Xanthium mi- mosim. After we got on board the vessel a breeze sprang up & we made for Portland Canal. The entrance into the above named canal & Observatory Inlet is about 3 miles broad, & is accordingly deap, as we could find no bottom with 120 fathoms of line. During our progress a canoe put of[f] to us from the shore, but as the wind was favourable it would have been a loss of time to have waited for them. When they saw it was impossible to overtake us, they tes- tified their displeasure in angry menaces. We saw sev- eral people viewing us from the shore ; one of them was armed with a fowling piece, the others appeared to be unarmed. On the approach of night we had much diffi- culty in finding a convenient anchoring place on account of the great depth of water close to the shore. After 3 hours hard labour, & some anxiety, we found a small cove about 4 miles below Point Ramsden, where we anchored in 30 fathoms of water & about 160 feet from the shore. ​182 DR. JOHN SCOULER. 30th. This [morning] we landed to take a view of the country. On penetrating across a little point of land we found a stream of excellent water, descending with great rapidity from the mountains & forming a little cascade where it fell into the sea. Here I found many interesting specimens, A was under little apprehension, as no vestiges of Indians could be discovered. Under the shade of pine trees I found Corallorhiza Odontorhiza, & on the margins of the rivulet Pyrola, several orchids, & a species oi Heu- chera, which was unknown to me. The coast abounded in marine phenogamous plants, as Plantago, Triglochin, & the little Glaux mdritima in great abundance. The Glaux seams to inhabit every seacoast in the North Temperate Zone. I have now collected the plant in places between which 130 degrees of longitude intervene. I also obtained a specimen of Mergus serrator. On returning to the ship we found a canoe alongside. It was in all probability the one we had seen off Point Ramsden. There were only four Indians in the canoe; their behavior was peac[e]able & inof[f]ensive. They be- longed to a very populous tribe, called the Nass Indians. Their language is a dialect of that spoken on Q. Char- lotte's Island, & was easily understood by our new inter- preter. In the afternoon our canoe was dispatched to seek for a more commodious anchorage farther up the inlet. I made one of the party. We went as far as Salmon Cove of Captain Vancouver. During our excursion we saw no traces of inhabitants. Every part of the coast was char- acterized by high, almost perpendicular mountains, sepa- rated by deep ravines, rather than vallies. The rocks were entirely composed of granite, & usually covered with pines ; but there were many barren spots where the dura- ble texture of the granite resists the action of the storms & winter torrents, & almost refuses to support the minutest ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 183 lichen. On our return it began to blow Very hard, & it was with some difficulty we could reach the ship ; once indeed the canoe was nearly upset, & it was dark before we got on board. We now received the disagre[e]able in- telligence that in our absence the ship had drifted from her anchorage & was with much difficulty prevented from going ashore. July 1st. This morning we left our disagre[e]able an- chorage & a favourable wind soon brought us to Salmon Cove. Before getting under way we were visited by an- other canoe from Nass, in which were some women, with their lips deformed in a remarkable manner. A trans- verse incision had been made in the lower lip, about an inch and a half in length, into this opening an oval shaped piece of wood was introduced, of about the same length as the incision, an inch in thickness, & concave on its upper & lower surfaces. This piece of wood they often exchange for a larger one & dilate the lip to a monstrous size. In some cases the lower lip projected about H ; inch before the tip of the nose, & and. gave them a most grotesque appearance when they chose to eat anything. The Indians appeared to have some traditions of G. Vancouver, as they were at some pains to make us under- stand that a great many snows ago two vessels had an- chored in the place where we now are. The little vall[e]y in which Salmon Cove is situated has a verdant appearance, & a small brook supples it with abundance of excellent water. The stones in the brook are everywhere covered by Fontinalis antipyschea & F. squamosa, the last is in the state of perfect fruit. d. Our excursion on shore to-day was very limited, as we were under perpetual apprehension of a visit from the Nass Indians, whom our Skittigass friend was at great pains to assure us were a bloody & treacherous people. ​184 DR. JOHN SCOULER. Before we left the coast we were informed by good author- ity that his advice was not false. 3d. In the morning canoes from Nass began to make their appearance, & in a short time we had 15 canoes & about 150 people about us. We were soon convinced of their friendly intentions, as they had brought their wives & children with them. Those who appeared to be chiefs among them were brought on board & feasted on bread & molasses, of all things the most delicious to an Indian palate. They behaved with uniform propriety & honesty ; a tin dish in which we had given them some molasses was taken ashore in the evening, but a canoe came of[f] with it before we could detect the mistake. 4th. We were busily occupied to-day in trading [with] the Nass people ; they proved to be keen merchants, but were not guilty of any attempt to cheat. We obtained some of the haunch backed [salmon] of[f] by C. Vancouver & embraced the opportunity of investigating its internal structure. In general the left side is of a lighter colour than the right. The dorsal protuberance is narrow & acute, & is composed entirely of cellular matter. Brachial rays four; numerous. All the individuals that had the haunch back were males, their snout was also produced to a considerable extent & armed with powerful teeth. Upper jaw arcaded [?]. These people had in their canoes a kind of square cake which they were always chewing. On examining these cakes I found there were two kinds of them. The one was of a soft consistence & consisted of different species of Halymenia, compressed into a cake. From the taste of these cakes & the saline efflorescence on their surface, it was obvious they did not wash the salt water of[f] them. The other cake was of a more firm consistence, & consisted of the bark of some tree beaten very fine & then compressed ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 185 & dried. Its taste was sweat & far more agre[e]able than the cake of Halymenia. These Indians resemble those of Q. Charlotte's Island very closely. The men are tall, stout & well proportioned, & have not the same aversion to beards that most Indian tribes have. They have high cheek bones, oval counte- nances, & rather round chins. When washed their com- plexion is not any darker than that of an inhabitant of the S. of Europe. There was a degree of decency among these people we did not observe among any tribe on the coast. Although most of the men wore blankets, they had a piece of cloth before them so as to prevent exposure. Almost the whole of the women had calico gowns & piece of blue cloth thrown over their shoulders, & had a very handsome appearance. They do not appear to use the lip ornament from their infancy. I saw many girls of about 14 or 16 who had not as yet assumed this mark of distinction ; probably it is conferred at marriage. 5th. In our boat excursions, we had found a more con- venient anchorage than Salmon Cove, about five miles further up the inlet ; to this situation the vessel proceeded & anchored in 30 fathoms [of] water in a very secure little bay. On account of the incessant rain we now experienced, as well as from the number of Indians about us, we judged it proper not to leave the ship. Friendly as the conduct of the people of Nass has been, the bad character they have got from previous visitors renders it by no means prudent to put ourselves in any degree at their mercy. Our Skitti- gass interpreter shrewdly advised us not to go on shore, but to employ the Indians to bring off water. As a further reason for adopting his advice, he said that a boat's crew belonging to an American trading vessel had been cut of[f] by the Nass people while employed in obtaining water; & ​186 DR. JOHN SCOULER. that 1 since that time the Americans had always employed the Indians to supply them with this essential article. 6ih As most of the Indians had left us this morning, we went about four miles up the inlet in the boat. In one place we saw the smoke of an Indian lodge, but none of its inmates made their appearance. The western branch of the inlet which we had been exploring is about a mile broad, surrounded on each side by steap & lofty moun- tains, covered with pine trees. The scenery of some of our Highland lochs would be very similar if the hills would support as rich a vegetation. On our return we landed for a few minutes on a small rocky point which afforded some specimens. In this situation the Lilium pudicum grew in abundance, although unfortunately out of flower. The pear-shaped granular roots of this plant are much sought after by the Indians & is eaten raw; its taste is not disagre[e]able, & it contains far more farina- ceous matter & less savoury [?] than the roots of most Liliacese. 7th. We now set out on our departure from this part of the N. W. Coast, and although the wind was unfavour- able, we succeeded in getting 8 miles down the inlet, and came to anchor in a small but secure harbour on its west- ern side. In this situation we found a few Indians employed in fishing. They sold us two fine halibut, weighing about 100 Ibs. each, & brought a good number of haunch backed salmon. The salmon were mostly females, & were larger & of a more vivid colour than the males ; their snout was not prolonged, nor was their haunch nearly so much de- veloped as in the males. The method the natives have of procuring halibut is very curious. They select a bifurcating twig of the birch tree, & to one of its bifurcations they fix a sharp, straight piece of bone, with its point directed in an opposite man​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 187 ner to the limbs of the fork. This hook would be too weak to hold so strong a fish if they were not ready to transfix him with their spears as he came to the surface of the water. 8th. To-day we got a few miles further down the inlet, but in the evening we were obliged to anchor in a very dis- agre[e]able situation. We were less than a cable's length from the shore & were obliged to make the vessel fast by a rope fixed to a tree. .9th. In the morning it began to blow hard & we were obliged to quit our uncomfortable situation and run back to the bay we had left on the 7th. 12th. We still remain in our old situation, the wind unfavorable & the rain incessant. Tired of inaction, & as the Indians had left us, I ventured ashore to collect a few specimens, & penetrated through the woods till we came to a small bay formed by a sudden turn the land takes to the eastward. The excursion afforded some interesting plants whose genera I was unacquainted with ; but my partiality for acotyledonous plants was amply gratified in the abundance of Lichens, Musci, & Jungermannise this place afforded ;& all of them in a state of fruit. The rocks even to high-water mark were covered by Gyro- phora[t], Conomyes & Peltidise[^]. The beauty & variety of the species, & the narrow space in which they are con- densed, enabled us to collect 40 specimens in the course of an hour, & convinced me that this bay was one of the most favoured climes for cryptogamous vegetation. This richness will cause the more surprise when it is stated that the principal rock was granite of a very undecom- posed nature, with a few masses of clay slate. Of mud slate I could detect no traces. On our return we observed the remains of an Indian lodge. It appeared to have been merely a temporary residence, as it consisted only of a few poles supporting a ​188 DR. JOHN SCOULER. cover formed of the branches of trees. The neighbor- hood was plentifully strewed with the shells of Mytili & Ostrese ; & we also found the remains of some of the fish- ing apparatus of the Indians. 13th. My time is now completely occupied in examin- ing in as great an extent of country as I can with pru- dence. This day was occupied in the course of a small rivulet which emptied itself into the cove. The rain was incessant & the ground so obstructed with Xanthium Spinosum as greatly to obstruct our progress. The phe- nogamous plants of our neighbourhood I had some time since exhausted, & my attention is chiefly directed to the Acotyledonse, & I found a few interesting individuals of them in this excursion. We had also the pleasure of seeing a fine waterfall. The water descended through a narrow channel & with great irnpetuousity over a perpen- dicular rock about 60 feet in height. Clambering up a steap rock near the cataract I found Linnsea borealis & Lycopodium. 17th. We made another excursion in a different di- rection to a small point on the N. W. side of the inlet. We had scarcely sent the boat away when we saw an Indian canoe going round the point, but as their number was equal to our own we did not judge it necessary to re- turn. The place we visited was exceedingly poor in plants, the only ones we detected were a species of the order Cruciferse, Linnsea borealis in fine fruit, Noethia, & Pinus taxi flora. 18th. As the morning was fine & the breeze favourable, we made our way to Salmon Cove, where we came to anchor about 11 o'clock. The quantity of salmon around us was truly astonishing ; looking over the sides of the vessel we saw shoals of them amounting to many thou- sands. As there appeared to be no natives in the neigh- bourhood, I wandered three miles up the brook & saw ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 189 nothing to alarm me but the tracks of bears, which were very common. Every pool and every brook swarmed with salmon so that nothing was easier than to kill any number of them. I killed 7 very large ones & dragged them after me to the ship. In consequence of my success a party was sent in the afternoon to procure more, & in the evening they returned with 40 fishes. In this excursion I met with a few interesting plants, as Veratrum viride, Epilobium [?] & a beautiful plant which Nuttall & Pursh omit in their Floras, but from the description of De Can- dolle I think is the Romanzovia Unalaschensis of Dr. Chamisso : Romanzovia-sepala 5, basi coalita, Pet. 5 in co- rollum 5 fidam coalita, stam. 5, unotubo inserta capsula uni- valvis, [An illegible description of about twenty words omitted.] 19th. The wind still continues unfavourable, so that our only alternative is to work down the inlet. By this plan we gained 15 miles, & in the evening came to anchor in a small sandy bay in the Northern part of the inlet. 21st. As the weather was very unfavourable on account of the rain & fog, we were oblidged to remain at our an- chorage. Although there were three canoes of Indians around us, yet as their conduct had been uniformly hon- est & peac[e]able, I resolved to venture ashore among them. On landing we found them employed in gathering berries, which they cheerfully presented to us, & seamed under no apprehension whatever. 28d. To-day we made considerable progress & at sunset we came to anchor in a small & commodious bay below Nass. As we passed Nass harbour many canoes came off to us, & seamed very anxious we should stop to trade, but we did not choose to detain ourselves as we had been de- tained here long enough already. 23d. In the morning the boat was dispatched to pro- cure some salmon, which were so abundant in the cove. ​190 DR. JOHN SCOULER. On this excursion we killed 35 large ones. Since we vis- ited Observatory Inlet I have been in the habit of paying close attention to the salmon it produces. In their young state no difference is to be observed between the males & females in their external organization. As the season of spawning approaches, a striking change takes place in the male so that a stranger would be apt to suppose the two sexes belonged to different species. The body of the female is round ; the back is of a deap green colour, in- terspersed with purple spots ; sides have large green spots, belly white. The snout is round and obtuse ; teeth short ; lower jaw nearly as long as upper. At the spawning pe- riod, the appearance of the male is very different. The body increases in size, & is very much compressed, & a large haunch is developed on his back, which consists entirely of adipose substance. The snout becomes very much elongated ; but the inferior is about -J- inch longer than the upper. Both jaws are furnished with strong, hooked, recurved teeth. The colours of the male is much paler than those of the female. On our journey I obtained a few plants, as sanguisorba, Empetrum nigrum, Stellaria, Orchis scirpus sylvestris, & Adiantum pedatum. Most of these plants were obtained in a damp sp[h]agnous place, which abounded in a species of Salamandra. ft^ih. On account of the incessant rain I did not ven- ture ashore during the forenoon ; in the afternoon as there was no prospect of better weather I ventured to make a short excursion, & was so fortunate as to obtain a few Musci & Jungermannise. 25th. This morning with a favourable though unex- pected breeze we left our anchorage, & although in a few hours the wind resumed its old direction," before evening we had lost sight of Observatory Inlet. ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 191 26th. In the afternoon we were of[f] Skittigass & af- forded us an opportunity of sending our interpreter ashore. Although in one respect he dissapointed our hopes by stealing when he had an opportunity of doing it ; we ought not to judge of him with the same severity as we would do of those who know better. It ought rather to be our wish that this interesting island may obtain some knowl- edge of moral responsibility & religious principles. The acuteness of the Queen Charlotte's Islanders has prompted them to adopt a great many customs of civilized life, & the cultivation of potatoes is very general among them, and had our time admitted of it we might have ob- tained any quantity of this usefull vegetable. This con- sideration alone, in my opinion, places them far above the natives of the Columbia in the scale of intelligence. With all the advantage of having Europeans constantly among them I do not know of one improvement requiring the smallest exertion that has been adopted by the Cheenooks. Poor Skittigass Tom was the only Indian that ever ex- pressed much anxiety to learn to read and write, & was very fond of obtaining a few ciphers. He made charts of Nass & Skittigass, which served to give a very good idea of the coast & of the different tribes settled along it. In the afternoon we saw two vessels getting out of Skit- tigass harbour & had the pleasure of receiving a visit from Mr. Kelly, Master of the Brig Owyhee, who informed us that the other vessel was the Volunteer, Captain Barker. Although engaged in the same trade, Mr. Kelly behaved in the most friendly & unreserved manner towards us, & gave us all the information in his power respecting the Indians. He assured us that on every part of the coast the natives were hostile & would be ready to seize every opportunity of cutting of[f] those who went ashore & of surprising the vessel. The only exception to this hostile disposition was ​192 DR. JOHN SCOULER. in the natives of Kigannie: the Porta Cordova y Cordova of C. Vancouver's chart. At Kagannie the seamen went ashore without any precaution whatever, & the natives were allowed to visit the ship in as great numbers as they pleased. Much of the hostile disposition is probably ow- ing to the Americans themselves, who alone enjoy the trade to the N. of Nootka. Of this, at least, I am sure that offenses of the Indians have been punished in a most bloody & unrelenting manner. With respect to atrocity they can outdo the Indians in cruelty. While of[f] Skittigass the Indians gave us a specimen of their expertness in thieving. By some means or other they contrived to steal the charges of the great guns & did [it] in so expert a manner that it was not detected till next day. 30th. To-day we were of[f] Nootka harbour & a canoe with 10 Indians came of[f] to us. They repeated the well known words Wakush & Masquada, & invited us to visit their harbour. They gave us a few fishes, consisting chiefly of Cyprinus brama & Gadus minutus. In appear- ance & language they have affinity to the Cheenooks, & soon [we] were able to understand them pretty easily. About 5 in the afternoon we anchored in [illegible] Cove, about 4 miles above Friendly village. Here Moa- quilla came on board with his two sons. The elder bears his father's name, & is, as far as we could judge, of a very mild temper. The younger is called Sadoo. Before ven- turing on board the old man inquired from what country we came, & on being informed we were English, he & his people clapped their hands & seamed highly delighted. On showing him the portrait of Mr. Mears he soon recog- nized his old friend, & had not forgot the Spaniards or C. Vancouver. When we showed him the portraits of him- self & Calleum, he easily found out the unfortunate chief & told us that Komkela was dead for many years. In the ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 193 evening he & his people left us, much pleased with the reception they had experienced. 31st. The whole of the Nootkan people seamed in mo- tion to visit the vessel, & we soon had about 25 canoes around the vessel. From the scarcity of European goods among them, it was pretty evident they seldom had any opportunity of seeing vessels. Most of them were in a happy state of ignorance of rum & tobacco ; old Moaquilla was the only exception to the remark, & he was much pleased with a little rum & water, which a Queen Char- lotte Islander would have rejected with contempt & de- manded wine. Our new friends brought us plenty of provisions, as Salmo Solar, Pleuronectes rhombus & Clupea pilchardus, the berries of Gaultheria Shallon, a sp. of Allium, & the roots of Phalangium esculentum. August 1st. In the forenoon I had the opportunity of landing for a few minutes, & although my time was so limited, I succeeded in procuring two species of Compos- ite [?] I had not before seen, & in picking up a few Fuci on the rocks. A short time after we returned to the ship we found that one of the iron hooks used in hoisting in the boat had been stolen, & the canoe in which the thief was had paddled of[f] with great dispatch. We had the pleasure of witnessing the disapprobation this conduct excited among his countrymen, & a canoe was instantly sent in pursuit of him & returned in a short time with the property.

1. d. My herborising yesterday had attracted the notice

of the Indians & one of the most intelligent among them brought me a Monoecius plant I had not before detected. To encourage this disposition I gave him a few presents & I doubt but [not] he may bring many more interesting plants. ​194 DR. JOHN SCOULER. The Nootkan canoes remain with us from morning to sunset, & of course are well provided with such food as the country affords. Their principle[al] support at present appears to be dried salmon, roots & oil. Their oil was contained in different kinds of bags. Some of them were made from the intestines of the larger quadrupeds, others were made of the fistulous stipes of a sp. of Fucus which abounds everywhere on the coast. 3d. Since visiting Nootka sound we have all been very curious to visit the village, & see what vestiges of the English & Spanish settlements remained. Although we received a very kind invitation from Moaquilla to pay him a visit, the fate of the Tonquin which was cut of[f] a few miles to the S. had filled the minds of some on board with fearful apprehensions. Concerning the fate of the Ton- quin the Indians were very reserved ; perhaps they had little to communicate. The old chief told us that the mas- sacre had taken place at Cloquatx, & the scheme had been concocted by a turbulent Indian named Quashelyshee, & that it was done entirely without the knowledge of the chief of Cloquatx. We know nothing authentic concerning the loss of this vessel; but it seems probable that she was surprised by the natives of Weanamuth of Cloquatx. The Tonquin was the first ship the Americans sent with set- tlers to the Columbia ; the captain after loosing two boat's crews on the bar of that river, whether by accident or on purpose, the stupid ferocity of the man renders it difficult to decide, he was sent on a trading voyage to the islands, where the loss of the ship I have not the smallest doubt was occasioned by his own negligence. It is but justice to the people of Nootka to state that we did not find that degree of filth among them which Mr. Mears describes. They were as cleanly as any tribe of Indians we had seen. Nootka, which excited so much contention between the courts of Madrid & London, is now ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 195 completely neglected by every civilised power, & the state of poverty in which they are at present affords little in- ducement to the visits of mercantile adventurers. The few skins they have to dispose of, seam to make their way to Ft. George through the inter medium of other tribes, as most of their blankets & other articles were recognized to be the goods of the N. W. Company. The Cheenook custom of deforming the head prevails among the inhabitants of Vancouver's Island ; but this operation must be somewhat modified, as their heads are of a more conical shape than of the Columbia Indians. Like the Indians of Queen Charlotte's Island they wear long ear ornaments, consisting of square pieces of a shell which has a margaritaceous lustre. The practice of de- forming the lower lip does not prevail at Nootka. 8th. Since the 3d of August on which we left Nootka we have made but little progress on account of the fre- quent calms & foggy weather. As we were quitting Nootka we had an instance of the honesty of old Moaquilla. We had given his young son the loan of a musquet while we were in [illegible] & although we [were] leaving the land fast with a fair wind, a canoe was sent after us to re- store us the musquet as a proof of his honesty & friend- ship. This morning we entered the straits of Juan De Fuca. About 7 A. M. we discovered a number of canoes making towards us & in a short time we had fifteen of them about the vessel. Some of the natives who had been at Ft. George soon recognized Mr. McKenzie, & all of them be- haved in the most friendly manner, & brought us plenty of fish, turbot & mullets (Mugil auratus). The chief of these people, who is brother to the Tatooch chief, was in one of the canoes, but was so debilitated as to be unable to come on board. They carry on an inveterate war with the people on the opposite side of the straits (the Cloquatx ​196 DR. JOHN SCOULER. & Nitlinat), & many of the slaves they obtain are sold to the Indians of the South & arrive at the Columbia. The natives of Tatooch show much ingenuity in manu- facturing blankets from the hair of their dogs. On a little island a few miles from the coast they have a great num- ber of white dogs which they feed regularly every day. From the wool of these dogs & the fibres of the Cypress they make a very strong blanket. They have also some method of making red & blue stripes in their blankets in imitation of European ones. At a little distance it is diffi- cult to distinguish these Indian blankets from those of Europe. 9th. On continuing our course down the straits, canoes came of[f] from every quarter, bringing beaver & other skins. Most of the Indians belonged to a powerful tribe called the Klallums. When they found that we came from the Columbia they became very friendly. In the evening we anchored of[f] their villages in Port Discovery. We had no sooner anchored than about 20 canoes came of[f] to us. In one of the canoes was a young man who had seen several of the traders from Ft. George who had made a journey to this part of the coast last winter. These people much resemble the Indians of the Columbia in their dress, manners & personal appearance. In the vicinity of their village are many of those poles so much represented in Captain Vancouver's voyage. We found it difficult to ascertain the use of this curious apparatus, but was told by some of the Indians they were for catch- ing birds. Most of the canoes had long spears, armed with iron points, & ornamented with human hair ; these spears were about ten feet in length. They had also a kind of harpoon about the same length as their spears but not so strong, & at the extremity had a bifurcated piece of wood fixed to them & both its points armed with bones. ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 197 10th to 13th. The Indians continue to behave in the most quiet & inof[f]ensive manner. & have supplied us most abundantly with fishes, ducks & all the vegetables their country afforded. The chief is an old man named Squastin, who visited us every morning, bringing us a present of fish & berries, & he is by no means so greedy a beggar as Moaquilla of Nootka. As none of the boats ventured ashore I had no oppor- tunity of examining the productions of the country. I tried the plan I had adopted at Nootka & was more suc- cessful. Observing a mouse in one of the canoes I pur- chased it, & in the course of a few hours I was plentifully supplied with specimens of Uria troile, Colymbus cornutus, three species -of Mus. No. 1: intestines with numerous convolutions, stomach capacious, liver bilobed, ears very short. No. 2 : Tail longer than body, back brown, belly white, ears long, liver 5 lobed. No. 3 I did not dissect. As there is little doubt that some of these mice are non- descript it is much to be regretted that some of^them were to[o] putrid to admit of a carefull dissection. I may here mention that I had an opportunity of removing all doubt as to the authenticity of the Mus bursarus of Shaw, as I saw a very fine specimen of it in the possession of Mr. Douglass. The dissection of the Colymbus cornutus presented the following appearances : oesophagus wide & dilatable, & furnished with many longitudinal plicae, which all termi- nate in a ring around the cardiac orifice of the stomach. The stomach is rather muscular, the internal surface fur- nished with many small glands. Gizzard very muscular. Convolutions of the intestines numerous. Liver consists of two large & nearly equal lobes. This part of the coast appears to be extremely populous; in sailing down the straits from Tatooch to Port Discovery we never lost sight of the smoke of villages; & whenever ​198 DR. JOHN SCOULER. we came to anchor we had plenty of canoes around us. This numerous population is not to be wondered at when we consider the abundant means of support the country affords. The sea yields abundant supply of excellent fishes of the most agre[e]able kind, every rivulet teeming with myriads of salmon ; & the land affords an endless variety of berries & esculent roots. The collecting of the latter forms the occupation of the women & children, while the men are employed in procuring the former, & both are carefully dried for winter stores. The sea fish they obtain are different kinds of Pleuronectes, Mugil & Gadus. About the beginning of October they abandon their summer residence near the shore & retreat into the interior of the country, where, in addition to their winter stock, they kill abundance of birds, especially of the duck tribe, & beaver, otters & elks, whose skins afford them comfortable cloathing or the means of procuring European articles. They return to the sea coast again in the begin- ning of April. This action [?] of the Indians explains the cause of the mistake into which the very accurate C. Van- couver fell, concerning the apparent depopulation of the coast, when we reccolect [sic] that between the months of October & April the natives would be at their winter abode. 14th. This morning we left Port Discovery, & as we were getting under way these friendly Indians came of[f] to us with fishes & birds, which we could not wait for. All the time we were among these Klallums the old chief Squastin visited us every morning, never neglecting to bring us a supply of provisions, for which he would re- ceive no remuneration. His present consisted of berries of G. Shallon, shellfish, crabs, & in short, everything the country afforded. On leaving these friendly people, we coasted along a beautifull country ; the hills of moderate height & grad​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 199 ual ascent ; seamed better fitted for cultivation than any place N. of the Columbia we had yet visited. At this place two canoes came of[f] to us from the Nootkaside. In one of them was a famous chief named Waskalatchy, who had wandered more over the N. W. coast than any Indian upon it. This chief readily agreed to accompany us up the straits, & in the evening we anchored in Strawberry Cove, Cypress Island. 15th August. Since we anchored in this cove we have seen no Indians, but Waskalatchy informed us that there was a village a little to the N. E. of us. On obtaining this intelligence we fired a gun & in about an hour & a half we saw three canoes making for the ship. The Indians seamed to be under considerable apprehension & appeared to hesitate whether they should proceed or not-. After a short consultation they came near to us, & we soon found means to dissipate their alarm. They seamed very poor & had nothing in their canoes but a seal & a few gulls. In the afternoon when the canoes left us we had an op- portunity of visiting Strawberry Cove ; but, as evening was approaching, I had but little time to make observa- tions. We landed on a fine smooth sandy beach, which was bounded on all sides by low & marshy ground, cov- ered with Scirpi & Carices, & abounding in dear trails. Along the beach we found abundance of Berberis Aqui- folia & B. Nervosa. 16th. This afternoon we left Cypress Island & before sunset we anchored opposite an Indian village. This tribe of Indians is called the Lummie tribe, & are on terms of friendship with Klallums, & along with Squastin's peo- ple carry on a constant war with the people further up the straits. These friendly savages made us a present of two fine beavers, which afforded us an agre[e]able repast after being so long confined to salmon. Our Klallum friends, ​200 DR. JOHN SCOULER. who had heard the report of our gun on the preceding day, arrived this evening & behaved as usual in the most peac[e]able manner. 17th. These poor people continue to supply us with abundance of fish & berries & to accept with gratitude anything we please to give them. Our confidence in them was so great that we resolved to venture ashore. At the place where we landed a number of children who had been amusing themselves scampered of[f] in great alarm. As soon as I got ashore my attention was occupied with some interesting plants which grew on the beach ; among these plants was a Solidago & a beautifull specimen of Artemisia, but what pleased me most was the vast profu- sion of Myosotis Hookeri. In an extensive saline marsh I found a gp. of Salicornia & a fine Arenaria. During my herborising the Indians watched my motions with con- siderable curiosity, but what surprised them most was the captain's sextant, & enquired what was to be seen in the sun. They believed it to be some powerful medical charm by which we ascertained whether the Indians beyond them had many skins to dispose of or not. 18th. In the afternoon we proceeded farther up the Gulph of Georgia & about 12 miles from the Lummie vil- lage we found another people, called the Saugtch Indians. These Indians sold us a few skins & behaved very peac[e]- ably. Their village is situated very near the shore, at the bottom of a white cliff. Many of the houses were taken down & they appeared to be occupied in removing to their winter quarters. One of the Indians had a small porpoise, on which I made some observations. It was very young, as the teeth were not very evident. The tongue fleshy, a margin like a duck's, oesophagus narrow, stomach very small, & the intestines were of a very small diameter, but their convolutions were very numerous. Rectum about ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 201 two feet long, & equalling in capacity the stomach. Lungs of both sides nearly two lobed. Ovum, granular. The different tribes who inhabit De Fucas straits & the Gulph of Georgia, differ little in their features from the Cheenooks. The practice of flattening the heads of their children is universal. I could not ascertain any details of the nature of this process. They are more addicted to painting themselves than the natives of the Columbia are. The paints they use are red ochre, charcoal & powdered mica. They make regular lines on their faces with these powders, & when painted their appearance is very dis- agre[e]able. The quantity of grease they apply to their hair is prodigious, but we did not observe any of them powder their heads with the down of fowls, a custom so common at Nass & Nootka. Their canoes are similar to those of the Cheenooks ; but are very light & are ornamented with the teeth of some animal, probably the sea otter. The largest canoe we saw was one belonging to Squastin, which was capable of con- taining 30 men. Their dresses are very various, but European cloathes are very scarce among them. Blankets of dogs' wool are very common, & although superior in durability to those of Europe, are far from being so comfortable. Robes from the skins of rac[c]oons [?] & elks were very common. All these dresses were attended with the inconvenience of personal exposure ; some, however, had a dress which pre- vented this completely. It consisted of two pieces of a sort of leather prepared from the elks skin. These pieces reached from the neck to the ancles, & were sowed together down to the knee, forming a kind of shirt without sleeves. The women here, as well as on all other places on the coast, wore petticoats made of straw or bark. They are yet so fortunate as to have very few fire arms among them & iron is very scarce. ^JTheir bows are similar to those of ​202 DR. JOHN SCOULER. the Columbia Indians, & are frequently ornamented with the skins of serpents. The arrows are very short and are armed with barbed pieces of bone, about six inches long. 19th. This morning we left the Saugtch Indians & an- chored of[f]. Point Roberts. The coast here has a very low marshy appearance, & is more abundantly covered with bushes & shrubs than any part of the coast we have seen. As the weather was rather blowy we did not ven- ture to land, nor did any natives come of[f] to us, although three canoes & several Indians ashore. 20th. As the weather was much improved this morn- ing, the canoes came of[f] to us & proved to be our old ac- quaintances from Saugtch & Lummie. They said they came to warn us that we would soon be visited by two very powerful & dangerous tribes, the Cowitchen & Yakulta, who would surprise the vessel if possible & would poison the fish they sold us. This piece of policy on the part of these natives was easily detected. At every place from port Discovery to Point Roberts the Indians had endeav- oured to prejudice us against the natives farther up the Gulph, & [to get us] to join them in an expedition against the Cowitchen & Yakultas. To their advice we paid little attention, as it only proved the inveterate hatred that pre- vailed among the different tribes. The canoes had not left us long when those [of] the Cowitchen & their allies appeared, & we were soon con- vinced that they were as friendly & peac[e]able as any of the tribes we had yet seen. Before mid[d]ay we ventured ashore & I had a short time to examine the productions of this part of the coast. Point Roberts consists of an extensive flat marsh, bounded towards the sea by a slightly elevated beach, formed prob- ably by the accumulation of drift wood, which was very abundant here. The interior of the marsh was impene- trable on account of its semifluid, consistance & the abund​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 203 ance of Scirpus lacustris, growing to the height of 6 or 7 feet. Nearer the shore the soil consisted of a mixture of sand and peat, formed by the action of the sea & the decay of the musci which abounded here. The bay abounded in Scirpi carices & other aquatic grasses. In the dry sandy margins I found Spiraea salicifolia Guapha- lium, 2 sp. (Enothera biennis. The drift wood along the beach abounded with Coluber. They were perfectly harm- less & the ground seamed a mass of serpents. One could not overturn any piece of old wood without dislodging from 18 to 20 of them. 23d. The fresh taste of the water, although we were three miles from the shore, seamed to indicate the vicinity of large rivers. As this was the grand object of our enquir- ies, the long boat was dispatched & on its return in the evening confirmed our suspicions. The river is shut up from the access of vessels for a great way by sand banks & has not more than 6 feet water at its mouth. Qj^ili. The Cowitchen chief, Chapea, came on board to inform us that a part[y] of white people from the Colum- bia were in search of us, & that we would soon see them in three canoes. We were at first inclined to give a little attention to the report, but when he further informed us that two vessels had entered the straits, we were convinced that his object was to sell us news when his skins were disposed of. Chapea had in his retinue an Indian deaply marked with smallpox & was the only individual we had seen on the N. W. coast with this disease. The rarity of such an occurrence at once indicates the fatality of the disease & the dread they entertain of it. This epidemic broke out among them in 17 & soon depopulated the eastern coast of America, & those on the Columbia were not secure be- hind the Rocky Mountains, & the ravages of the disease were only bounded by the Pacific Ocean. The Cheenooks ​204 DR. JOHN SCOULER. to the present time speak of it with horror, & are exceed- ingly anxious to obtain that medicine which protects the whites, meaning vaccination. Such is the dread of this disease that when about to plunder the tribes of the inte- rior, they have been deterred by the threat of dissemi- nating smallpox among them. It is, I believe, the benev- olent intention of the H. B. Company to send missionaries among these untutored Indians; nothing would enable them to gain the goodwill of the Indians so much as in- troducing vaccination, & no gift would be more gratefully received. 25th. We made another excursion to point Roberts. There was a pretty large party of Indians on the beach but they did not come near us, but I did not hesitate in going near them & employed a young man as a sort of as- sistant in my excursion. In this excursion I found a greater variety of plants than on the former, but none of them happened to be so new or interesting. Bidens, Ga- lium, Polygonum hydropiperoides, Sparganium, Typha lati- folia. 26th. The object of our voyage up the Gulph of Georgia being now accomplished, we set out on our return to the Columbia & in the evening anchored of[f] the Lummie village, when our old friend Sahumkan [?] came on board. At this place we were plentifully supplied with fish & berries. Such is the abundance of provisions up the straits that since we anchored in Port Protection we have not had to use any salt provisions. The people have been plentifully supplied with salmon, & the supplies of the cabin have been often varied by ducks, venison & beaver. In the afternoon we went ashore to visit the chief at his village, but found he was absent ; his people, however, behaved with the greatest propriety & kindness. The village is situated at the extremity of a fine forest, under the shade of some large trees. Their lodges were about ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 205 20 & the number of inhabitants was probably about 300. The houses were constructed of planks of fir & cedar, & thatched with Typha latifolia. Near the shore there were several large shades erected for drying salmon, & from the immense quantities of dry fish we saw, there was little probability they would experience any of the horrors of famine the ensuing winter. The method they adopt of curing the salmon is very simple ; the intestines are taken out & the spine & the remaining part of the fish is exposed to the sun. No salt is ever used by the Indians. 27th. We went ashore again this forenoon to make a short botanical excursion. We found the Indians busily employed in removing their provisions & furniture, even to the boards of their houses, to their winter quarters, which were a little way into the interior. My botanising was very unfortunate & I was about to go on board with- out a single plant; on advancing a little farther into the woods, I had the good fortune to find a fine species of Sanicula. On examining this plant I found it to differ from any of the sp. of Sanicula I was acquainted with. From the down on the lower part of the stem & on the leaves it may be called S. tomentosa. 28th. Towards evening we were becalmed of[f] Ta- tooche & several canoes carne of[f] to us with salmon & halibut. One man ventured on board, though with much apprehension. The reason of his terror was that he had been carried of[f] & sold as a slave by an American ship. We were already aware that such things had been done by an American vessel, but we had not seen any of his victims before. This villain, whose name is Ayres, once entered the Columbia & carried of[f] 12 men, seven of them, however, escaped by stealing the boat & making for the shore.

(TO BE CONTINUED.) ​

On the 20th of March, 1827, by the annual express, and in company with Dr. McLoughlin, I started for England from Fort Vancouver, a place where, if I had spent not many comfortable days, yet some such happy ones, that though I hailed the prospect of returning to my native land, I confess I could not quit such an interesting country without much regret. I walked the whole distance to Fort Cohite [Colville] on the Kettle Falls, which occupied twenty-five days, not one of which passed without presenting to my notice something of interest, either in Botany or Zoology. The beautiful Erythronium grandiflorum and Claytonia lanceolata were in full bloom among the snow.

On the 18th of April Mr. E, with seven men and myself, took our departure from the Kettle Falls to the Rocky Mountains early in the morning. Nothing of importance occurred; we entered the Lower Lake on Friday the 20th, and used our sail, the wind being so favourable ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 207 that we reached the termination of the Upper Lake on Sunday the 22d. Twenty-eight miles above this place, where the river takes a sudden bend, and to all appearance is lost in the mountains, a scene of the most terrific gran- deur presents itself; the whole torrent is confined to the breadth of thirty-five yards, and tossed in rapids, whirl- pools, and eddies ; on both sides are mountains towering to the height of six or eight thousand feet from their base, rising with perpendicular precipices from the very bed of the river, covered with dead timber of enormous growth, the roots of which, laid bare by the torrents, and now hurled by the violence of the wind from their original high places, come hurrying down the stream, bringing enormous fragments of earth attached to their roots, and spreading devastation all before them. The sun feebly tipped the mountain-tops as we passed this place, and, seen through the shadowy pines, imparted a melancholy air to the whole gloomy scene. On the 25th we passed the "Narrows of Death," a ter- rific place in the river, which takes its name from a trag- ical circumstance which I have not here room to relate, when ten individuals endured almost unparalleled suffer- ings, and were finally all released by death, with the exception of one. At noon on the 27th of April we had the satisfaction of landing at the Boat Encampment at the base of the Rocky Mountains. How familiar soever these snowy mountains have been to us, so that we might be expected to lose an adequate idea of their immense alti- tude, yet on beholding the Grand "Dividing Ridge" of this mighty continent, all that we have seen before seems to fade from the mind, and to be forgotten in the con- templation of their height and indescribably rugged and sharp peaks, with the darkness of the rocks, their glaciers and eternal snows. ​208 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. The principal branch of the Columbia is here sixty yards wide, the Canoe River forty, and the middle one, on whose banks we ascend, is thirty. On Saturday, the 28th, having packed the whole of my journals in a tin box, and carrying a case of seeds and a shirt or two, tied up in a bundle, we commenced our march across the mountains in an easterly direction, first entering a low swampy piece of ground, about three miles long, knee-deep of water, and covered with rotten ice, through which we sank more than a foot down at every step we took. Then we crossed a deep muddy creek, and entered a point of wood, principally consisting of Pine, P. balsamea, nigra alba, and Strobus, together with Thuja plicata. About eleven we entered the snow, which was four to seven feet deep, moist and soft, which, together with the fallen timber, made walking in snow-shoes very fatiguing. We camped that night on the West side of the middle branch of the Columbia. Except two species of Squirrel, we saw no animals. Sunday, the 29th, min. heat 23, max. 43. After a sound and refreshing night's rest, we started at four this morning, proceeding for six miles due East, in the course of which we made as many traverses or fordings of the river, which was two and a half to three feet deep, clear, and with a powerful current. Though the -breadth did not exceed twenty-five to fifty yards, the length of time passed in the water was considerable, for the feet can not with safety be lifted from the bottom, as if once the water gets under the soles of the feet, which should be glided along to prevent this, over goes the whole person. In very powerful currents it is necessary to pass in a body, and the one supporting the other, in an oblique direction. Then we came to a level valley, three miles broad, dry at this season, but during the summer forming an inland lake, bounded by the mountains. Our course was afterwards ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 209 due east for four miles, and in this short distance we made seven fordings more. We did not require snow-shoes here, as there was a fine hard solid crust, but on coming out of the water and trotting along on the hoar-frost, we found it intensely cold, and all our clothing that was wet, immediately became cased with ice; still no inconven- ience of any consequence was sustained. About nine we entered another point of wood, where we had recourse to our snow-shoes, and finding the snow becoming quite soft towards noon, we camped for the day, having travelled fifteen miles. Panax horrida (Hook. Fl. Bor, Am. t. 98), a Dryas, and a Betula, were the only plants I had added to my catalogue ; at night a large Wolverine came to our camp to steal, for which he was shot. We saw great num- bers of Anas Canadensis, and one female of Tetrao Cana- densis. On Monday, the 30th, the heat was just the same as the day before ; our elevation was seven hundred feet above the river. The route lay through a wood and a valley precisely similar to those we had passed yesterday, and during a walk of two miles and a half we were obliged to ford the river seven times, keeping in a direct line from point to point. Four more miles, and as many times crossing the river, brought us to the termination of this platform or valley, and here the stream parts into two branches, the larger one flowing from the North, the other from due East. We crossed at the angle between the two streams, and commenced our ascent of the Big Hill. The snow being so deep, at least six feet, the markings on the trees which indicated the path were frequently hid, arid we found it no easy matter to keep the track. The steep ascent, the deep gullies, the brushwood and fallen timber, rendered walking very labourious. We encamped two miles up the hill, having gained five miles to-day. The ​210 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. timber gradually becoming smaller, no new plants or ani- mals were added to our store. May 1st, Tuesday. This morning the thermometer stood at 2 below Zero, and the maximum heat at noon was 44 ! We continued ascending, and had the satisfaction at ten to reach the summit, where we made a short pause to rest ourselves, and then descended the eastern side of the Big Hill to a small, round, open piece of ground, through which flowed the smaller or East branch of the river, being the same as we had left yesterday at the west- ern base of the Big Hill. To the right is a small point of low stunted wood of Pinus nigra alba and Banksiana. Near this place we started at mid-day a fine male specimen of Tetra Franklinii, which I preserved with great care. Be- ing well rested by one o'clock, I set out with the view of ascending what seemed to be the highest peak on the North. Its height does not seem to be less than 16,000 or 17,000 feet above the level of the sea. After passing over the lower ridge, I came to about 1,200 feet of by far the most difficult and fatiguing walking I ever experienced, and the utmost care was required to tread safely over the crust of snow. A few mosses and lichens, Andrea? and Jungermannide, are observable, but at the elevation of 4,800 feet vegetation no longer exists; not so much as a lichen is found in a tract of 1,200 feet of eternal ice. The view from the summit is of too awful a cast to afford pleasure. Nothing can be seen, in every direction, as far as the eye can reach except mountains, towering above each other, rugged beyond all description ; while the daz- zling reflection from the snow, the heavenly azure of the solid glaciers with the rainbow tints of their shattered fragments, and the enormous icicles suspended from the perpendicular rocks, and the majestic but terrible ava- lanches hurling themselves from the more exposed south- erly rocks, produced a crash and groaned through the ​JOURNAL AND"LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 211 distant valleys with a sound only equalled by that of an earthquake. Such scenes give a sense of the stupendous and wonderful works of the Almighty. This peak, the highest yet known in the Northern Continent of Amer- ica, I felt sincere pleasure in naming " Mount Brown," in honour of R. Brown, Esq., the illustrious Botanist, a man no less distinguished by the amiable qualities of his mind than by his scientific attainments. A little to the south- ward is one nearly of the same height rising into a sharper point; this I named "Mount Hooker," in honour of my early patron, the Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow. This mountain, however, I was not able to climb. A species of Menziesia [?], Andromeda hypnoides, Gentiana, Lycopodium alpinum, Salix herbacea, Empetrum, Juncus biglumis, and triglumis were among the last of the phoenogamous plants which I observed. Wednesday, the 2d. At three o'clock I felt the cold so much, and the thermometer only stood at 2 below Zero, that I was obliged to rise and enliven the fire to get my- self comfortably warmed before starting. Through three hundred yards of gradually rising, open, low Pine woods we passed, and about the same distance of open ground took us to the basin of this mighty river a small circular lake, twenty yards in diameter, in the center of the valley, with a small outlet on the West end, namely, the Columbia, and another at the east end, namely, one of the branches of the Athabasca, which must itself be considered one of the tributaries of the Mackenzie Kiver. This is not the only fact of two opposite streams flowing from the same lake. This, " the Committee's Punch Bowl" is considered as being half way, and we were quite glad to know that the more labourious and arduous part of our journey was accomplished. The little stream, the Athabasca, over which we had stepped so conveniently, presently assumed a considerable size, and was dashed over cascades and ​212 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. formed cauldrons of limestone and basalt. Seven miles below the pass, as do the tributaries of the Columbia on the western side, so the Athabasca widens into a narrow lake, and has a much greater distance than the Columbia. At this point the snow had nearly disappeared, and the temperature was greatly increased. Many of the moun- tains on the right hand are at all seasons tipped with glaciers. At ten we stopped to breakfast, fifteen miles from the ridge, where we remained for four hours. The thermometer stood at 2 below Zero this morning, and had risen to 57 at two P. M., a heat which we found dread- fully oppressive. This afternoon, having set off a little before the party, I missed my way and wandered from the path. As the sun was edging on the mountains I descried about a mile off to the East, behind a low knoll, a curling blue smoke rising from above the trees, a sign which gave me infinite pleasure. I quickened my steps and soon came up to it, when I found Jacques Cardinal, who came to the Moose Encampment, and brought with him eight horses to help us on our way. He treated me to an ex- cellent supper of mutton, the flesh of A vis montana( Geoff.), and regretted he had no spirits to offer me. Pointing to the stream, he jocularly said, "there's my barrel, and it is always running." The kind fellow also offered me a part of his hut. On the next morning, Thursday, the 3d, the whole party were brought up by Cardinal ; they had been very uneasy at my nonappearance the preceding night. We break- fasted and proceeded by the banks of the stream, I pre- ferring walking, though the ground was still soft from the recently melted snow, and strewed with timber of small size. The difference of climate and soil, with the amazing disparity in the variety and stature of the vegetation, is truly astonishing ; one would suppose it was another hem- isphere, the change is so sudden and so great. We crossed ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 213 the principal branch of the Athabasca, which becomes a river seventy yards broad, when joined by the stream on the banks of which we had descended. Here it was our intention to camp for the night, but Cardinal found his horses so unexpectedly strong, that the route was con- tinued to the Rocky Mountains' House where we were to find canoes, and which we gained soon after six p. M. Several partridges were killed, but the only plant new to me this day was Anemone Nuttalliana (A. patens, Hook.), which was in full flower. The scenery here is very fine, with a small lake and open valley, commanding a sublime prospect of the mountains. Our distance to-day was thirty- four miles. On the following day (Friday) we embarked at daylight in two fine light birch canoes, and went rapidly before the stream, the banks of which are low and woody, in some places narrow, in others widening into narrow lakes full of sands and shoals. We stayed to breakfast on a small low island in the Upper Lake, where we had some mountain sheep's flesh, given us by Cardinal's hunter. Continuing our route, we passed a ridge of steep mountains on the right, and five miles lower down a similar range to the left, which are the termination of the dividing moun- tains on the East side, and arrived at Jasper House at two p. M. The minimum heat to-day had been 29, the maxi- mum 61. Saturday, the 8th. This day presented scarcely any va- riety. The river is one hundred to one hundred and forty yards wide, shallow and rapid, with low gravelly banks, wooded with Poplars and Pines. Its vicinity abounds with wild fowl, and the Northern Diver charmed us with his deep mellow melancholy voice in the evenings. Our progress was ninety-three miles. The following morning we had gained but three miles when we were detained by the ice, and here we found Mr. G. McDougall. We got on slowly, owing to a portage, where the canoes had to be ​214 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. carried a considerable distance to a place where the main channel was clear, after which we proceeded rapidly and arrived at Assinaboyne, one hundred and eighty-four miles from Jasper House, the next day. But as this place afforded us but little food, we pushed on without delay for Lesser Slave Lake, where we hoped to meet Mr. J. Stewart, who received us there with the utmost kindness, and showed me in particular so much attention that I travelled partly with the Brigade, and latterly alone with a single guide on foot to Fort Edmonton, on the Saskatch- awan River, which I reached on Monday the 21st. On the plains I killed several Curlews, and in the woods a number, both male and female, of Tetrao Phasianellus, the Pin-tailed Grouse of Edwards, with abundance of T. Can- adensis. From May 21st to the 31st, I spent my time in exploring the country round Edmonton House, which is woody and interesting ; after which I embarked in Mr. Stewart's boat for Carlston House. This mode of travel- ling gave me little time to botanize ; I could only do so during the breakfast hour in the morning,, and just before encamping in the dusk of evening, except when a halt was made for the purpose of hunting Buffalo and Red Deer. In some parts the scenery around the river is very varied and picturesque, especially near the Red Deer and Eagle Hills. The soil is dry and light, but not unfertile, with a rich herbage, belts and clumps of wood inter- spersed, which give it a most romantic appearance. Near this place many Buffalo were killed, with a few Red Deer and Antelopes of the Plains. This latter animal has so much curiosity that he will approach within a hundred yards of the hunter, particularly if the latter wears any thing red, a colour which is sure to attract him. The Buffalo is easily killed by a skilful person. Among a va- riety of plant.s that I had not seen before were Astragalus pectinatus (Phaca pectinata, Hook..Fl. Bor. Am. v. 1, t. 54), ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 215 and Drummondii (Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. v. 1, t. 57), Phlox Hoodii, Thermopsis rhombifolia (Hook. FL Bor. Am. v. 1, t. 47), Hedysarum Mackenzii, Astragalus succulentus (Bot. Reg. t. 1324), A. Caryocarpus (Bot. Reg. t. 176), and seven species of Salix. On one of these hunting excursions, Mr. F. McDonald was dreadfully injured by a wounded Buffalo Bull, which shockingly lacerated his left thigh, broke his ribs, dislocated his left wrist, and otherwise severely bruised him. These animals have a propensity not to destroy life at once, but to delight in torturing their vic- tim. On first striking the object of their vengeance, if he be stunned or feign death, there is a chance of escape, the creature meanwhile lying down beside him, and watching with a steadfast eye for the slightest motion, in which case he instantly rises and gives another blow. Poor McDon- ald was thus situated for two hours and a half, bleeding and at the point of death, and that too under cloud of night, which afforded us scarcely any opportunity of res- cuing him, for the animal lay watching within a few yards, and we were afraid to fire, lest a shot should strike our friend. By the activity of Mr. Heriot and my assistance, he was, however, saved. I bound up his wounds, and gave him all the aid that a small medicine chest and my slender knowledge of surgery would suggest. Hence we passed hastily onwards in hope of meeting Dr. Richard- son, but on our arrival found that he had gone to Cum- berland House. At Carlton House I had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. Drummond 1 of Capt. Franklin's party, who had spent the greater part of his time in exploring the Rocky Mountains contiguous to the sources of the rivers Athabasca and Columbia, where he had made a princely collection. I had intended to cross the plains from this place to Swan and Red Rivers, but the hostile JMr. Drummond's Journal of that expedition is given at page 178 of the first volume of our "Botanical Miscellany." ​216 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. disposition of the Stone Indians rendered it unsafe. I therefore descended to Cumberland House, where I found Dr. Richardson, who kindly showed me portions of the noble collection in Natural History made during the expe- dition. This part of the country has been so well de- scribed in the former narrative of Capt. (now Sir John) Franklin, that little is left for me to say respecting it, and I shall merely notice my stages. After leaving Cumber- land House, two days took us to the Grand Rapid, the en- trance of Lake Winipeg, where we were detained by the ice. A few hours after it became rotten, sank and disap- peared, leaving an open sheet of water through which we sailed to Norway House. The shores of this lake are clothed with diminutive trees, Pinus alba, nigra, micro- carpa, Populus trepida, Betula papyracea and nigra, and sphagnous swamps of Lednm, Kalmise, and Andromeda, together with a strong herbage of various species of Carex, near the springs or pools. On the 16th we arrived at Norway House, where I found letters from England. The following day Mr. Simpson, the Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, came, and I received great kind- ness from him ; and after I had spent several days at Norway House, Capt. Sir J. Franklin made his appear- ance and most politely offered me a passage in his canoe through the lake as far as the mouth of Winipeg River, on my way to Red River, which I gladly accepted. At this period, such an opportunity of saving time was most valuable, as I thus gained twelve days on the usual time required for performing the trip. Captain Franklin left me for England on the 9th of July, and on the following day I proceeded to the settlement on the Red River, which I reached on the 12th. I took up my abode with D. Mc- Kenzie, Esq., Governor of the Colony, a most kind and excellent man, who during my whole stay showed me great hospitality, and afforded me much valuable assist​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 217 ance. Mr. McKenzie's knowledge of the country, partic- ularly to the West of the Rocky Mountains, where he had spent many years, was particularly useful to me. I had also the pleasure to make the acquaintance of the Rev. David Jones and R. W. Cochrane, at the English Mission House, an admirable establishment, which owes much of its value to the unremitting care and zeal of these gentle- men, whose lives are devoted to the charge of the little flock over which they are called to preside. It was also a pleasure to me to become acquainted with the Rev. J. N. Provenchier, the worthy Catholic Bishop, a person of lib- eral disposition and highly cultivated mind, who lives only to be useful and good. The soil is exceedingly fer- tile, capable of bearing any kind of produce, being a deep alluvial stratum of brown loam over a gravel or limestone bottom. The settlers here live comfortably, and seem happy. The crops are liable to be attacked by grasshop- pers, but the wheat is exempted from smut and rust. Cattle thrive well, as do pigs and horses ; sheep had not then been introduced. During a month's residence here, I formed a small Herbarium of two hundred and eighty- eight species, many of them new to me, and the more in- teresting, because, if I had staid with Dr. Richardson or Mr. Drummond on the Saskatchawan, I should probably have added hardly any thing to the Flora of the country. With Mr. Hamlyn, the surgeon of the colony, I set off and had rather a tedious passage through the lake. Ar- riving at York Factory, Hudson's Bay, I was kindly re- ceived by J. G. McTavish, Esq., the Chief Factor, who had the goodness to order some travelling equipments for me, my own stock being completely worn out. Here ended my labours, and I may be allowed to. state, that when the natural difficulties of passing through a new country are taken into view, with the hostile dispo- sition of the native tribes, and the almost insuperable in​218 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. conveniences that daily occur, I have great reason to con- sider myself a highly favoured individual. All that my feeble exertions may have effected, only stimulate me to fresh exertions. The whole of my botanical collections, with the exception of some few, were, agreeably with my anxious wishes, given for publication in the forthcoming North American Flora of Dr. Hooker. I sailed from Hudson's Bay on the 15th of September, and arrived at Portsmouth on the llth of the following month. D. DOUGLAS. EDITORIAL COMMENT BY SIR WM. J. HOOKER. Thus happily terminated Mr. Douglas' first adventurous journey in North America, a journey extending from the Pacific to the source of the Columbia River, and thence to the Atlantic Ocean. Among the many dangers to which he was exposed, was that one recorded by Mr. Drum m on d (who, with Capt. Back [Black ?] and Lieu't Kendal, was of the party), in the first volume of the Botanical Miscel- lany" (p. 216); when in a small open boat in Hudson's Bay, they encountered so dreadful a storm, and were so short of provisions, that their escape seemed little short of a miracle. Mr. Douglas in particular suffered severely, and was confined to his bed during the greater part of the voyage home. It was fortunate that he directed his scien- tific researches chiefly to the western side of the Rocky Mountains ; for, during the very time he was carrying on his investigations there, his countrymen, Dr. Richardson and Mr. Drummond, were exploring the territories to the eastward of that vast stretch of the Cordillera : the former chiefly in the Arctic regions, the latter in nearly the same parallels of latitude with Mr. Douglas ; and the result of their combined exertions has been a mass of collections that have thrown a new light on the Natural History of ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 219 those interesting regions, and have supplied the materials for Dr. Richardson's inestimable works on the Quadrupeds, Birds, (in which he was assisted by Mr. Swainson), and Fishes of that country, as well as that which is preparing on the Insects by Mr. Kirby ; and of our Flora Boreali- Americana. These will constitute a lasting memorial of Mr. Douglas' zeal and abilities ; whilst not only in this country, but throughout Europe, and in the United States of America, there is scarcely a spot of ground deserving the name of a Garden, which does not owe many of its most powerful attractions to the living roots and seeds which have been sent by him to the Horticultural Society of London. 2 Dr. Lindley has favoured me with the fol- lowing list of species which have thus been introduced by him, the greater proportion of which are figured in the Botanical Register, and have now become common in our gardens. LIST OF PLANTS Introduced by Mr. Douglas in 18ZG-27. Abronia inellifera. Caprifolium hispidulum. Acer circinnatum. Castilleja coccinea. macrophyllum. Chelone nemorosa. Araelanchier florida. Clarckia elegans. Anemone Hudsoniana. gauroides. Arbutus procera. pulchella. - tomentosa. Clematis Virginiana. Astragalus succulentus. Clintonia elegans. Benthamia lycopsioides. pulchella. Berberis Aquifolium. Collomia grandiflora. glumacea. bellidifolia. Brodiaea conge&ta. gracilis. grandiflora. linearis. Calochortus macrocarpus. pinnatifida. nov. sp. Collinsia bicolor. Caprifolium Douglasii. grandiflora. ciliosum. parviflora. 2 A young friend of ours, who has lately (summer of 1836) visited Hammerfest in Norway, the most northern town in the world, in latitude 71, saw the Clarckia pulchella cultivated in pots in the windows of the apartments and very much prized. ​220 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. Coreopsis Atkinsoniana. Lupinus lepidus. Cornus alba. leucophyllus. Cratsegus Douglasii. littoralis. Delphinium Menziesii. lucidus. Donia villosa. micranthus. Epilobium minimum. nanus. Eriogonum compositum. ornatus. nudum. polyphyllus. Eriophylluni caespitosum. - var. albex. Erythronium grandinorum. - plumosus. Eschscholtzia Californica. rivularis. Eutoca divaricata. succulentus. multiflora. tristis. viscida. Sabinianus. Gaillardia arisbata. Malva Munroana. Garrya elliptica. Mimulus Cardinalis. Gaultheria Shallon. floribundus. Geranium Carolinianum. guttatus. Gilia achillesefolia. moschatus. capitata. roseus. pungens. Nemophila insignis. splendens. Nicotiana multivalvis. tricolor. CEnothera albicaulis. Helianthus lenticularis. decumbens (pallida L.). Helonias tenax. dentata. Heuchera micrantha. lepida. Horkelia congesta. Lindleyana. Hosackia bicolor. muricata. Hyssopus urticsefolius. quadrivulnera. Ipomopsis elegans. rubricunda. Iris tenax. viminea. Lathyrus Californicus. vinosa. Lilium pudicum. Pentstemon acuminatum. Linuin Lewisii. attenuatum. Sibiricum. ' confertum. Lupinus arbustus. deustum. albifrons. diffusum. aridus. glandulosum. bicolor. gracile. densiflorus. ovatum (pruinosum). flexuosus. Richardsoni. grandiflorus. Scouleri. hirsutissimus. speciosum. laxiflorus. staticsefolium. leptophyllus. triphyllum. ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 221 Phlox speciosa. Ribes petiolare. Pinus Douglasii. sanguineum. Lamberti. setosum. ponderosa. speciosum. Potentilla arachnoidea. - . tenuiflorum. arguta. viscosissimum. effusa. Rubus leucodermis. glandulosa. leucostachys. obscura. longipetalis. pectinata. Nutkanus. Prunus depressa. spectabilis. Pyrola rivularis. Scilla (Camassia) esculenta. Ribes cereum. Sida malvseflora. divaricatum. Silene inamsena. glutinosum. Spergula ramosissima. * echinatum. Spiraea Americana. irriguum. arisefolia. lacustre. Aruncus. malvaceum. Symphoria racemosa. niveum. Tanacetum boreale. Qualified, as Mr. Douglas undoubtedly was, for a trav- eller, and happy as he unquestionably found himself in surveying the wonders of Nature in its grandest scale, in conciliating the friendship (a faculty he eminently pos- sessed) of the untutored Indians, and in collecting the productions of the new countries he explored ; it was quite otherwise with him during his stay in his native land. It was, no doubt, gratifying to be welcomed by his former acquaintances, after so perilous yet so successful a journey, and to be flattered and caressed by new ones ; and this was perhaps the amount of his pleasures, which were succeeded by many, and, to his sensitive mind, griev- ous disappointments. Mr. Booth remarks, in his letter to me on this subject, "I may here observe, that his ap- pearance one morning in the autumn of 1827, at the Hor- ticultural Society's Garden, Turnham Green, was hailed by no one with more delight than myself, who chanced to be among the first to welcome him on his arrival, as I was among the last to bid him adieu on his departure. ​222 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. His company was now courted, and unfortunately for his peace of mind he could not withstand the temptation (so natural to the human heart) of appearing as one of the Lions among the learned and scientific men in London ; to many of whom he was introduced by his friend and patron, Mr. Sabine. Flattered by their attention, and by the notoriety of his botanical discoveries, which were ex- hibited at the meetings of the Horticultural Society, or published in the leading periodicals of the day, he seemed for a time as if he had obtained the summit of his ambi- tion. But alas! when the novelty of his situation had subsided, he began to perceive that he had been pursuing a shadow instead of a reality." As some further compen- sation for his meritorious services, the Council of the Hor- ticultural Society agreed to grant him the profits which might accrue from the publication of the Journal of his Travels, in the preparation of which for the press he was offered the assistance of Mr. Sabine and Dr. Lindley; and Mr. Murray of Albemarle-Street was consulted on the sub- ject. But this proffered kindness was rejected by Mr. Douglas, and he had thoughts of preparing the Journal entirely himself. He was, however, but little suited for the undertaking, and accordingly, although he laboured at it during the time he remained in England, we regret to say, he never completed it. His temper became more sensitive than ever, and himself restless and dissatisfied ; so that his best friends could not but wish, as he himself did, that he were again occupied in the honorable task of exploring North-west America. The Hudson's Bay Com- pany, as upon the former occasion, made a most liberal offer of assistance, and it was resolved that he should go again to the Columbia River, partly at the expense of the Horticultural Society and partly with assistance of the Co- lonial Office ; for his geographical observations and the friendship of Mr. Sabine had recommended him to the ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 223 brother of this latter gentleman, Capt. Sabine, who showed at all times the utmost kindness, made him known to the Colonial Office, gave him most important instructions at the Greenwich Observatory, and found in him so apt and so grateful a pupil, that a cordial friendship was estab- lished, which continued to the last. The original plan of his route was communicated to me by Mr. Douglas, in a letter bearing date LONDON, August 6, 1829. "I am sure you will be glad to know that my anticipated journey has been laid before the Council, and approved of; so that I go, God willing, on the 15th of September, by the Hudson's Bay Company's Ship Eagle. My plans must be a separate communication, but just let me say, that my principal objects are to make known the vegetable treas- ures of the Interior of California, from the northern boundaries of Mexico, near the head of the Gulf. The botanical productions of Rio Colorado and other streams, totally unknown in Europe, will, I trust, ere many years, be as familiar as those of the Columbia. The govern- ment provides me with every instrument which Capt. Sabine, as Sec- retary of the Royal Society thinks may be of use. These consist of sex- tants, chronometers, barometers, thermometers, hygrometers, com- passes of all sorts, instruments for magnetic intensity, dip of the mag- netic needle, all of which can be used with such accuracy, as will ren- der my journey, as I trust, not the journey of a commonplace tourist. " I am not quite certain, but that when I have completed my expe- dition on the Continent of America, I may cross to the opposite shore, and return in a southerly line, near the Russian frontier with China. What a glorious prospect! Thus not only the plants, but a series of observations may be produced, the work of the same individual on both Continents, with the same instruments, under similar .circum- stances and in corresponding latitudes ! I hope I do not indulge my hopes too far. I shall try to set a hundred pairs of feet and as many pairs of hands to work for me, and shall make them grub up and bring me all they can find. People tell me that Siberia is like a rat-trap, which there is no difficulty in entering, but from which it is not so easy to find egress. I mean at least to put this saying to the test. And I hope that those who know me know also that trifles will not stop me. I am glad to learn you are coming to England before I go that I may see you once more. I shall be greatly obliged if you would purchase for me a Bible, in 2 vols. 8vo., with a good bold legible type and notes of refer- ence, or more properly speaking, marginal notes. I cannot see to read small type, and have been unable to find such an one in London, but I know there is a Scotch edition of the kind which I describe. I intend ​224 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. to procure the skulls of dogs, wolves, and bears for Scouler; but noneof men, for fear he should make a second voyage to the Northwest coast, and find mine bleached in some canoe, 'because I stole from the dead,' as my old friends on the Columbia would say." Mr. Douglas here refers to Dr. Scouler's having carried away from the Columbia River, the preserved skulls of two Chinooks, on account of the singular mode in which, by compressing the frontal bone in infancy, the heads of these people are made to assume a conical, almost sugar- loaf appearance. The indignation of the natives was much roused on this occasion, and Dr. Scouler would probably have met with very rough treatment, if he had not deferred this robbery for the sake of science to the very night pre- vious to the vessel's sailing from the Columbia River, by which he was carried out of the reach of their resentment. Extracts from two other letters, now before me, written previous to his departure, will perhaps be read with inter- est ; and if it shall appear that I have suffered any passage to come before the public which was only intended for a private communication,! trust that my motive in so doing will not be attributed to personal vanity, but to the real cause my desire to commemorate the generosity of Mr. Douglas' heart and his grateful disposition whenever any act of kindness was shown him: GREENWICH, Sept. 14, 1829. "I am exceedingly engaged in my preparations, and will soon be ready. The vessel is to sail not later than the end of this month, which delights me amazingly. I go under most comfortable circumstances, and am certainly very happy. All my instruments are ready, save the chronometer, which I hope to be in possession of in a few days, all packed and ready to be sent on board ship at an hour's notice. Noth- ing pleases me so much as the addition of 20, which has been given me by the Colonial Office; I asked for 60 to provide books, tables, and charts, and they sent 80, as also some instruments, which, though previously used by other persons, are in perfectly good order. I ought to think myself a very lucky fellow, for indeed every person seems to take more interest than another in assisting me. I possess a beautiful assortment of barometers, so constructed that, comparatively ​JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO N. W. AMERICA. 225 speaking, there is scarcely any liability of derangement, an object of most desirable attainment in these instruments. I shall combine ob- servations accurately made with the hygrometer on different altitudes on the mountains and in different latitudes, .which will, I trust, fur- nish you with information that can be confidently relied upon, and which will effect much in illustrating the Geography of Plants. I shall take great care of Fuci. You have heard from Dr. Mertens, 3 who doubtless told you of his splendid voyage. He possesses the gigantic seaweed of which I spoke, and has named it Fucus Lutkeanus, after the captain of the vessel. I spent ten days with Captain Lutke here, and was highly pleased with him: he gave me letters to Baron Wrangell, Governor of the Russian Colonies in America, and of the Aleutian Isles, as also circulars to Siberia. The Baron is a man of vast information, and joins heart and hand with all those who have scientific views. I spent a few days with Dr. Mertens, and would gladly have accompanied him to Sheerness to see his drawings, had I the time to spare. He tells me that he found a second species of shrubby Pyrola, a more robust plant than yours. 4 The expedition did not touch lower down on the coast than Norfolk Sound, and I should conceive that most of their plants (indeed Dr. Mertens said so, for I showed him all mine) are very different from those collected either by Capt. Beechey's party or myself. Did you hear of the total wreck of the Hudson's Bay Company's ship on the sand-bar at the entrance of the Columbia River, with the loss of every individual on board, forty- six in number, on the llth of March last? It was the vessel in which Dr. Scouler and I went out in 1824, when the late captain was First- Mate. It is stated that those who escaped from the wreck were de- stroyed by my old friends, the Chenooks. This may be true, though I confess I entertain some doubts, for I have lived among those people unmolested for weeks and months. The temptation, however, of ob- taining the wreck may have overcome their better (if indeed they pos- sess any) feelings. Though this is far from agreeable news, and though the name of my new captain (Grave) may sound ominous, I shall yet venture among these tribes once again. I doubt not if 'I can do as much as most people, and perhaps more than some who make a parade about it. I shall write every day and write every thing, so that my drivelling will return home, though perhaps I may not. "I shall feel the greatest pleasure in communicating with Dr. Richardson; it will be quite a comfort to place any of my discoveries in the hands of one who will give them so creditably to the world. 3 The son of Prof. Mertens of Bremen, who accompanied Capt. Lutke, as Naturalist, in the last Russian voyage of discovery. His account of Sitka is given at vol. 3, p. 12, of the "Botanical Miscellany." 4 It proves to be the same plant, a new genus, my Tolmicea occidentalis (Fl. Bor. Am. v. 2, p. 45,) but had been, a little time previously, published by M. Bongard, under the name of Cladothamnus pyrolijlorus. ​226 JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. " It is uncertain where I may touch in my passage out, or, indeed, if at all on the Brazilian coast. I believe it is pretty certain we shall spend a month on the Sandwich Islands, where something- may, I trust, be done, both in Botany and Zoology. " I regret to hear that you are not likely to be in England this autumn; for to Scotland I cannot go, which obliges me, most reluct- antly, to sail without seeing you. In a few days I shall write to you my, for the present, last letter. I had almost forgotten to say, that I have put the last impression on your map through my hands. It is very fine, and will surely please you. The route of Franklin, Richard- son, and Drummond is marked in RED, Parry's in BLUE, and mine in YELLOW. I must have the latter tint changed to green, for. yel- low is a most sickly hue for a culler of weeds." LONDON, Oct. 27, 1829. "I received, indue course, the letter you were so kind as to ad- dress me at Greenwich, and am delighted to know that Dr. Mertens has promised to send you part of his plants, which must be a great ac- quisition. I cannot tell you how pleased I am to have seen the first Part of your Flora Boreali- Americana before sailing, and that I am enabled to take it with me to America. The map is good and will in- crease the interest of the book; had it been printed on thinner paper, I think, however, it would have been still better. The plates are truly beautiful; but I see you have not given a figure of Pceonia (P. Brownii}. The type is also good, and the notices and habitats full a point of great importance. I have been, and still am, deeply engaged, and will continue so, if I have another season to remain here, for I have much to learn, to do, and to think, as to my anticipated journey. I know it will give you satisfaction to hear that every facility in the way of instruments for such an expedition has been granted me in the handsomest manner by the Colonial Office. And further still, Mr. Hay, the Under Secretary, sent to enquire if any thing had been for- gotten, and begged me to say unhesitatingly if this were the case. The same Office also pays the principal part of my expenses, and will give me a compensation for my charts, and for the information I may bring home on my return. This is all as it ought to be I mean the latter part of the agreement ; if I had a good salary, I might fold my hands and become lazy, therefore I can feel no objection to being paid according to my labour. I hope, ere the whole of the Flora is printed, to be able to supply you with many and striking novelties. I am sen- sible of the great advantage I derive from my former experience of travelling in the country, of hunting, collecting, etc.; and certainly if I find the Indian tribes as quiet as when I left them, much good may be effected. Of this, however, I feel considerably afraid, in conse- quence of the destruction of the Hudson's Bay Company's Ship's crew, and the murder of some parties of Americans, by which I am warned ​JOURNAL AND LETTERS OF DAVID DOUGLAS. 227 to walk with great caution, and more reservedly than before. If I find the natives hostile to the 'Man of Grass' [the name by which Mr. Douglas was generally known among them], I must shift my quarters to some other part of the country. I shall take the list of my Cana- dian plants to-day to Treuttel and Wurtz's for you, and am also send- ing to Dr. Richardson a notice of the Zoology of North-west America, to be published in the last volume of his Fauna. I am hourly expect- ing the summons to sail, and am not aware that we shall touch at any place, except the Sandwich Islands, where it is intended to make a short stay. By every opportunity, it will be my sincere pleasure to write to you, and tell you of my progress and plans; and I cannot ex- press the delight which I always feel in hearing from you, more es- pecially when I am separated from you by seas and distant lands, and yet busily employed in gathering and sending you the plants of those regions. I therefore entreat that, if it be only a few lines, you will do me the favour to write, or cause your sons to do so. It is not likely my time will permit me to address you again before sailing, let me therefore repeat once more how sincerely I feel myself indebted to you, not for much, but for all that I possess ; and that the many fa- vours and kind attentions I have always received from you command

my warmest gratitude." ​ ​

Proceedings of a convention held at Carthage, Hancock County, Ill., Oct. 1 and 2, 1845, relating to depredations by Mormons. Donated by R. V. Short, Portland.

Speech of Col. E. D. Baker in United States senate Jan. 2, 1861, upon the secession question.

A melodrama entitled "Treason, Strategems, and Spoils," in five acts, by Breakspear (W. L. Adams). Printed at Oregonian office by Thos. J. Dryer, 1852. Donated by C. G. Morey.

Address at Hartford before the delegates to the young men of Connecticut on Feb. 18, 1840, by George Bancroft.

Speech of John Davis, Massachusetts, in reply to James Buchanan, Pennsylvania, on the Reduction of Wages and Value of Property, in United States senate, Jan. 23, 1840.

Message of President Z. Taylor, Dec. 4, 1849.

Speech of Samuel R. Thurston, delegate in Congress from Oregon, on Admission of California as a State, March 25, 1850.

General and Special Laws of Oregon Territory passed at 4th regu- lar session of Legislative Assembly, Salem, Dec. 6, 1852. Salem, Ore- gon. 8vo, paper ; 142 pp.

- 8th Regular Session, Dec. 1, 1856. Salem. 8vo, paper; 140pp.

- 9th Regular Session, Dec. 7, 1857. Salem. 8vo, paper ; 208 pp.

- 10th Regular Session, Dec. 6, 1858. Salem. 8 vo, paper ; 174 pp.

Journal of Council, Legislative Assembly, Dec. 5, 1856. Salem. 1857. 8vo, 164 pp. (Five pamphlets donated by R. V. Short, Port- land.)

Kanzas Region: Forest, Prairie, Desert, Mountain, Vale, and River. By Max Greene. 12mo, paper; New York, 1856. Map. 192 pp. (Do- nated by Mrs. Zilpha Rigdon, Pleasant Hill. Heroine of 1849, The: A story of the Pacific Coast. By Mrs. Mary P. Sawtelle. San Francisco, 1892. 12mo, paper ; 248 pp. Parks, Portland, Oregon. Report of Park Board, 1903. 8vo, 76 pp. Report of Adjutant General, Oregon Territory, Jan. 19, 1856. - Quartermaster General, Jan. 1, 1856. (Presented by Colburn Barrell, Portland.) History of the Wadsworth-Longfellow House, Portland, Me. Pre- sented by Nathan Goold, author. Portland Water Works. Rates and regulations adopted Sept. 1, 1878. Rules and orders of the House of Representatives, Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 1836 ; was the property of Capt. Nathaniel Crosby, ​232 ACCESSIONS. who came to Portland in 1845, and bears his signature. He was founder of the town of Milton, near St. Helens of to-day. Speech of James Buchanan, Pennsylvania, in United States senate, Dec. 29, 1841, against the establishment of the "Exchequer Board" proposed by the Secretary of the Treasury. Speech by Charles Sumner, Massachusetts, April 13, 1869, on "Our Claims on England." Charter, City of Portland, Oct. 17, 1860. Report of Agricultural Department, November and December, 1866. Petition of B. F. Dowell and others for paying Volunteers in sup- pressing Indian hostilities in 1854, introduced by J. H. D. Henderson in Congress, March 25, 1867. Reference to Ward massacre, Aug. 20, 1854. Letter of Robert J. Walker, ex-Secretary of the Treasury, on National Finances, Nov. 30, 1867. Speech of H. W. Corbett, United States senate, Dec. 13, 1867, on resuming Specie Payment. Speech of O. P. Morton, United States senate, Jan. 24, 1868, on Reconstruction. Speech of Rufus Mallory, Congress, Feb. 24, 1868, on Impeaching President Johnson. Speech of H. W. Corbett, United States senate, March 11, 1868, on The Funding Bill. Policy of extending Government aid to additional railroads to the Pacific by guaranteeing interest on their Bonds. Report of Commit- tee Feb. 19, 1869. Message of President Hayes, Dec. 6, 1880. Thirtieth Annual Report of Portland Public Schools, 1902-1903. Congressional directory, first edition, Dec. 5, 1889. Presented by Mrs. Zilpha Rigdon, Pleasant Hill. Special report on Mountain Meadow Massacre, by Major J. H. Carleton, United States army, May 25, 1859. (Reprinted as House Doc. 605, 57th Congress, 1st session, 1902.) State of Washington, 1901, issued by State Bureau of Statistics. First American Public School. By William A. Mowry, Hyde Park, Mass. Some Historic Old Landmarks, Virginia and Maryland. By W. H. Snowden, Philadelphia, 1894. Game of British Columbia. Bulletin No. 17, Bureau of Provincial Information, Victoria, B. C., 1903. Acceptance of Oil Portrait of Dr. John McLoughlin by State author- ities. Presented by Oregon Pioneer Association, Feb. 5, 1889. DOCUMENTS. Commission issued by James Campbell, Postmaster General, United States of America, to Alvin T. Smith, as postmaster at Tualatin, Wash- ington County (now Forest Grove), April 9, 1853. ​ACCESSIONS. 233 Commission issued by John P. Gaines, Governor of Oregon, to Alvin T. Smith, as probate judge of Washington County, July 3, 1851. Receipt for note to Alvin T. Smith from Rev. Elkanah Walker, Sept. 13, 1858. Agreement by Revs. Elkanah Walker and Horace Lyman with Alvin T. Smith to assist in completing the "Congregational Meeting House" at Forest Grove, dated Sept. 13, 1858. Certificate of election of Alvin T. Smith to office of probate judge, issued by Wm. Geiger, Jr., June 9, 1851. Instructions from Postoffice Department, April 3, 1855. Receipt for letters and postal supplies, 'Signed by Alvin T. Smith to W. S. Caldwell, postmaster at Hillsboro, July 14, 1851. Quarterly account of Alvin T. Smith, postmaster at Tualatin, March 31, 1855. Commission issued by Nathan K. Hall, Postmaster General, United States of America, to Alvin T. Smith, postmaster at Tualatin, June 5, 1852. Election tickets, Democratic and American (Know Nothing), voted June, 1855, at West Tualatin (Forest Grove). Letter from Alvin T. Smith to Postoffice Department, Tualatin, July 31, 1855. - July 31, 1855. - Aug. 6, 1855. - Jan. 9, 1856. Letter from Auditor of Postoffice Department to Alvin T. Smith, dated October 6, 1855. Note to editor of Oregon Weekly Times from Alvin T. Smith, May 18, 1859. House Joint Resolution No. 2 introduced in legislative assembly Dec. 14, 1857. Letter from J. E. Long, "Secretary of Oregon," June 28, 1844, to Alvin T. Smith, notifying him that he in connection with Adam Hewett and James Waters had been appointed by the legislature to "view out the road leading from the Willamette Falls to the Tualatin Plains." Preceding eighteen documents donated by Mrs. Alvin T. Smith, Forest Grove. Letter. Frederick and Catherine Elgin to James Elgin, dated Clover Bottom, Ky., June 5, 1822. Deed of Wm. M. Turpin to William Taylor, Polk County, Oregon, dated Dec. 29, 1853. Letter. Col. J. B. Backenstos to Gen. Joseph Lane, May 26, 1854. Ticket of Admission to Impeachment Trial of President of the United States April 13, 1868. Presented by Judson Holcomb, To- wanda, Pa. Early History of Tacoma. Address by Thomas W. Prosch, April 12, 1905. ​Sketch of trip of 4th Infantry, Col. B. L. E. Bonneville, from New York to Fort Vancouver, leaving- the former city July 23, 1852, by Mrs. John D. Biles, daughter of Brevet Major William Kelly, of Co. G, then first sergeant.

Portland Levee Question. Decisions in Courts. 1860.

Logbook of Bark Henrietta sunk near Astoria. (In French.)

Letter. Abraham Lincoln to Simeon Francis, Springfield, Ill., August 4, 1860. (Donated by Mrs. Byron Z. Holmes, Portland, a niece of Mr. Francis.)

Republican campaign letter head, 1860, showing a rail fence, flatboat, and Lincoln's portrait. (Donated by A. F. Johnson.)

Muster roll of privates on special duty, City of Mexico, October, 1847, U. S. Grant, Second Lieutenant, Reg'l Q. M.

Discharge of A. L. Coffee, private in Capt. H. J. G. Maxon's Company of Washington Territory Volunteers in Yakima Indian war of 1855-56, dated Sept. 15, 1856.

Certificate No. 228, in Umpqua Land District, dated May 10, 1862, signed by John Kelly, Register, and George E. Briggs, Receiver, to the effect that William Tichenor was entitled to a patent by virtue of his residing on the premises, described in body of certificate, from May 12, 1852, to Sept. 29, 1856.

Commission of M. C. Barkwell as Surgeon General of the Territory of Oregon, dated Jan. 31, 1856. Signed by George L. Curry, Governor.

Letter of inquiry by Dr. John McLoughlin, Oregon City, Dec. 26, 1854, addressed to Joseph Watt, Amity, Oregon, relating to his treatment of early settlers, and Watt's reply.

Letter from A. L. Lovejoy to J. W. Nesmith, Oregon City, Dec, 26, 1846, referring to passage of liquor law by the provisional legislature over the Governor's veto.

Receipt of J. L. Meek to J. W. Nesmith, United States marshal, for $40 for services as crier at September term, 1854, United States court.

Copy of letter from Jesse Applegate to Dr. John McLoughlin, dated Jan. 15, 1854, relating to the services of the latter to the early settlers of Oregon.

Copy of letter from John C. Fremont to Dr. John McLoughlin, dated San Francisco, Dec. 26, 1851.

Report of Col. James W. Nesmith to Governor Geo. L. Curry, The Dalles, Nov. 19, 1855, touching operations in the Indian country.

Letter of A. B. Harden, no date, to his brother, J. D. Harden, urging that, if he decides to come to Oregon, he should take the southern route to avoid being. "robbed "by Mr. Barlow. On reverse side of letter appears a rude map of Willamette Valley settlements.

Certificate of stock of the "Portland, and Valley Plank Road Company," issued to James W. Nesmith Oct. 9, 1851. ​ACCESSIONS. 235 Postal accounts of Robert Nesmith, a brother of James W. Nes- mith's father, at Francestown, N. H., in 1817. (Preceding eleven documents presented by Mrs. Harriet K. McAr- thur, Portland, a daughter of James W. Nesmith.) Seven Documents relating to an arbitration between J. L. Parrish and W. H. Gray on August 13, 1846. Article of Agreement between John Davis and J. L. Barlow, Jan. 17, 1861. Act to provide for a special election, Sept. 29, 1849. Letter. W. G. T' Vault to Oregon Printing Association, Oregon City, Dec. 27, 1845, offering to edit the Oregon Spectator one year for $300 in currency; also minutes of said association Jan. 3, 1846. Letter. N. W. Col well to Oregon Printing Association, Oct. 5, 1846, offering to print the Spectator for $800 in "orders on solvent merchants in Oregon City, or cash at one third discount." Letters, contracts, minutes of meetings, receipts, etc., relating to the business of the Oregon Printing Association and the issuing of the Oregon Spectator, the first newspaper printed in American territory west of the Rocky Mountains, its first issue being at Oregon City, Feb. 5, 1846. Eighteen documents. (Donated by Mrs. George A. Harding, Oregon City.) Letter to Governor Gibbs, Feb. 29, 1864, announcing completion of telegraph line to Portland, signed by R. R. Haines, superintendent Oregon Telegraph Co. i , Letter to Governor Gibbs from Gen. George Wright, San Fran- cisco, Jan. 12, 1864, respecting the probable drafting of soldiers in Ore- gon for the United States army. Commission issued to George W, Salisbury as Recorder of Porter County, Indiana, for seven years, by Daniel Wallace, Governor, Aug. 17, 1839. (Mr. Salisbury crossed the plains to Oregon in 1850, went to Sandwich Islands soon after, and died there.) Letter from Miss Chloe A. Clark, afterwards Mrs. W. H. Willson, whose husband was the founder of Salem, dated "Ship Lausanne, May 22, 1840," lying off the mouth of the Columbia River, to Miss Mary A. Norton, Litchfield, Conn. Miss Clark arrived at Vancouver, June 1, 1840; was appointed teacher at Puget Sound on the 8th, and was mar- ried to Dr. W. H. Willson, at Fort Nesqually on Aug. 16, 1840 the second white couple to be married north of the Columbia River. (Pre- sented by Mrs. J. K. Gill, Portland, a daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Will- son.) Letter from Mrs. Thomas A. Hendricks, Indianapolis, Ind.^ Feb. 17, 1888. Letter of Senator E. D. Baker, Salem, Oct. 2, 1860, to R. F. Maury, Jacksonville, announcing his election to the United States senate. Letter. H. W. Corbett to Col. R. F. Maury, Portland, Feb. 10, 1863. ​236 ACCESSIONS. Letter. Nesmith to Maury, Washington, D. C., April 3, 1862, re- lating to war matters. Letter. Brigadier General Alvord, Fort Vancouver, Feb. 15, 1864, to Colonel Maury, on political and war matters. Letter. Lieut. J. A. Waymire to Colonel Maury, Walla Walla, Feb. 17, 1863, relating to military matters. Telegram. R. C. Drumm, Assistant Adjutant General, Depart- ment of Pacific, San Francisco. March 1, 1864, to Col. R. F. Maury. Letter. Capt. Geo. E. Pickett to Colonel Maury, Feb* 13, 1861. (The last seven documents donated by Col. R. F. Maury, Jacksonville, Oregon.) Letter. A. McDonald to Napoleon McGillivray, May 4, 1879. Letter. Geo. B. Roberts to Napoleon McGillivray, Nov. 21, 1878. Sixty-five bill heads, receipts, orders, etc., connected with the busi- ness of King & Kittredge, merchants in Portland, and Wm. M. King, 1849-1854. Sixty-two letters to Col. Wm. M. King relating to early business and political life in Portland prior to 1855. Thirteen letters, contracts, etc., relating to business matters in which Col. Wm. M. King was engaged in New York State between the years 1835 and 1847. Commissions issued to Wm. M. King by the Governor of New York in 1835 and 1837 as major and colonel of the State militia. Circular, "Oregon and California," issued at Independence, Mo., Feb. 15, 1847, by Geo. W. Buchanan, postmaster, also a letter by the same, dated March 25, 1847, sent to Col. Wm. M. King, then in New York. Proclamation of Governor Joseph Lane calling special session of the legislature, dated April 6, 1850. (Donated by the family of Col. King through his son, James W. King, Portland.) Statement by Andrew J. Laws, who is believed to have fired the first gun on the part of the whites in the Yakima Indian war of 1855-56. Articles of agreement between Capt. John A. Sutter, Lewis San- ders, and William Muldrow, about his property in Sacramento, dated Feb. 24, 1854. Notice relating to "Express Matter to and from the Outside," dated Nome, Dec. 12, 1900. Correspondence, scrapbooks, letterbooks, etc., of Governor Addison C. Gibbs, war governor of Oregon, 1862-1866, numbering ten volumes; and in addition about 3,000 pages of testimony before United States Court, District of Oregon, relating to the final settlement of title in the Caruthers land claim, City of Portland. (Donated by Mrs. Mar- garet W. Gibbs.)