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The remarkable naval career of Charles Wilkes began shortly after the War of 1812 and bridged the better part of the nineteenth century. Always the "Stormy Petrel" rarely sailing in calm seas, he weathered conviction by two courts-martial while climbing the rank ladder from Midshipman to Rear Admiral.

Wilkes commanded the celebrated U.S. Exploring Expedition. The scientific achievements of the four year Expedition were monumental. The ice-bound Antarctic was identified as a continental land mass; vast areas in the South Pacific as well as the northwest coast of the United States were surveyed and explored. Animal and plant-life specimens, widely collected in quantity and brought back, proved a treasure trove for natural scientists.

While commanding the USS San Jacinto, early in the Civil War, Wilkes sparked an international incident of no small magnitude. Near Cuba he stopped the British mail steamer Trent and took off Confederate commissioners James Mason and John Slidell. The halting, boarding and removing of passengers from a neutral British flag vessel drew immediate and strong protest from official London and talk of war.

Charles Wilkes was blunt, highly opinionated and always self-righteous. Such personal characteristics are not universally endearing and frequently brought Wilkes into open conflict with colleagues and superiors, most notably Secretary of the Navy Gideon Welles.

He was a scientist, and perhaps it was the discipline of this calling which made Wilkes a keen observer of all that came within his range. The Autobiography is naval history, and affords us a view from the midshipmen's mess and the wardroom of life at sea in the early Navy. But in addition, the Autobiography presents a fascinating commentary on politics, society and culture as seen through Wilkes' eyes. Descriptions of his travels are lessons in antiquity and geography.

Wilkes opened the Autobiography with the words, "At the instigation of my wife and Children I am induced to give the Record of my life." He began writing in 1871 when he was seventy-three years of age. The end result was a manuscript exceeding 2800 pages in horrendous hand-writing. Undoubtedly the length and handwriting discouraged and delayed transcription to the printed page for more than a century.

The primary sources used by Wilkes for the Autobiography were his voluminous diaries and memory. This latter element, always suspect, may account for some rambling, repetition and faulty chronological sequences in the text. Hopefully readers will excuse a writer of three score and more than ten for such distractions.

​The original manuscript is in the Manuscript Division of the Library of Congress where it was deposited by a member of the family in 1921. Much credit is due to Mrs. Minta Hull, the Admiral's great granddaughter, for her enthusiasm and untiring efforts through the years to ready a publishable manuscript and to seek publication. Upon Mrs. Hull's death the work she had done on the Autobiography and materials she had assembled came into possession of her close friend, Mrs. Evelyn S. Taber-Holt of Columbia, South Carolina.

Mrs. Taber-Holt shared Mrs. Hull's ardent desire to see the Autobiography published. In 1969 she solicited the support of Allan Nevins, distinguished historian and member of the Secretary of the Navy's Advisory Committee on Naval History. Dr. Nevins, recognizing the historical significance of the Autobiography, endorsed the project, and brought it to the attention of Rear Admiral Ernest McNeill Eller, USN (Ret.), then Director of Naval History. Admiral Eller was in full agreement with Dr. Nevins' evaluation. He acquired the Wilkes materials held by Mrs. Taber-Holt with the understanding that as time, resources and staffing permitted, every effort would be made to publish the Autobiography.

Dr. David B. Tyler, author of an excellent book, The Wilkes Expedition, kindly consented to participate in the editorial preparation of the manuscript and he made major contributions. The other co-editors, William James Morgan, Joye Leonhart and Mary Loughlin were regular staff members in the Historical Research Branch of the Naval History Division. They undertook this difficult assignment as additional duty in the midst of already imposing publication responsibilities including the multi-volume Naval Documents of the American Revolution.

To bring a work of this nature to completion requires the assistance, knowledge and cooperation of many individuals and institutions. Within the Naval History Division, and while assigned to the Historical Research Branch, Lieutenant Mary Walsh, USN, and Dr. Robert Scheina did excellent work on the Autobiography. As always, the deep knowledge and helpfulness of Miss Barbara Lynch, Navy Department Library, were invaluable. Mrs. Agnes Hoover and Mr. Charles Haberlein, of the Naval History Division's Curator Branch, provided advice and support in the search for illustrations. Particular recognition is due to Mr. Frank J. Coulter, Jr., a graduate student, employed part time in the Historical Research Branch. His search for obscure data, transcription, proofing and work on the epilogue, chronology and index were outstanding.

We are grateful to members of the Wilkes family for their aid in our quest for elusive family pictures. These included Vice Admiral W. R. Smedberg, III, USN (Ret.), Mrs. Stanley Black, Jr. and Captain Charles Wilkes Styer, USN (Ret.). A special note of thanks goes to Mr. Gilbert Wilkes, III, who kindly welcomed two staff members into his home to examine and photograph items from his extensive private collection.

The various libraries and depositories we turned to with rewarding ​results included: the British Embassy in Washington, the Center for Polar Archives and other National Archives branches, Columbia Historical Society of the District of Columbia, Columbia University, Duke University, Frick Art Reference Library, Library of Congress, Maryland Historical Society, Naval Academy Museum and Alumni Association, Naval Oceanographic Office, Peabody Museum, Smithsonian Institution, U.S. State Department and Yale University.

To all, named and unnamed, our appreciation is as great as our debt.

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The editors' approach to the autobiography was to "translate" the handwriting and to allow Charles Wilkes to speak for himself with a minimum of interference. However, the manuscript's structure and Wilkes' writing style dictated some editorial incursions.

It would seem that quick and divergent thoughts crossed Wilkes' mind as he worked on the autobiography, and he would immediately insert them in the text. This led to wandering digressions and disdain for punctuation and grammatical considerations, particularly sentences. Confronted with strings of phrases, the editors added square bracketed verbs or other links to form sentences, albeit sometimes very long sentences. Square brackets have also been put to other conventional uses to insert missing words and to indicate illegibles or blank spaces in the text. Chapter breaks are non-existent in the manuscript and paragraphs virtually so. They have been supplied by the editors. Footnotes, used to clarify or identify, are kept to a minimum.

Wilkes occasionally had difficulty with the chronological sequence of events. For example, he discussed his command of the West India Squadron before he treated of the James River Flotilla. Actually the time frame for these commands was just the reverse. We have not tampered with his order, but have included a brief chronology which it is hoped will be a reference point for readers.

If Wilkes did not have a fact or specific piece of information at hand he left space in the manuscript, apparently with the intention of returning to fill it in. He did not, and the blanks remained. We have succeeded in supplying the missing data in some instances, but others have defied resolution. There are also pages missing from the manuscript, and where this occurs it has been noted.

Wilkes' rambling prose, a proclivity for flash-backs and flash-forwards, and his desire for saturation coverage, particularly where he conceived that a wrong had been done him, led to the inclusion of some repetitive material in the autobiography. Only in one instance (a story in Chapter VIII) was the repetition deemed so flagrant, an almost verbatim recital of what had been written earlier, did the editors feel compelled to delete. The reader will find the place of deletion indicated.

The Admiral did not carry the autobiography beyond the Civil War years and his vendetta with Secretary of the Navy Gideon Welles. In a short epilogue we have summarized highlights of his activities from this point until his death. ​ ​

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⁠(Courtesy of U.S. Naval Academy Museum.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Courtesy of National Gallery of Art. Gift of Maude Monell Vetlesen, 1947.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Courtesy of VADM W. R. Smedberg, III.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Courtesy of American Philosophical Society.)

⁠(Library of Congress.) ​

⁠(Courtesy of Peabody Museum, Salem, Mass.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume II.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume I.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume I.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume II.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume II.)

⁠(Courtesy of Peabody Museum, Salem, Mass.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume IV.)

⁠(From Narrative of the Exploring Expedition, Volume V.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Library of Congress.)

⁠(From Historical Collections of the State of Pennsylvania, 1843.)

⁠(From Harper's New Monthly Magazine, September, 1863.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.) ​

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(From Virginia; Its History and Antiquities, 1845.)

⁠(Library of Congress.)

⁠(From Scribner's Monthly, March 1874.)

⁠(Library of Congress.)

⁠(Courtesy of Mrs. Stanley W. Black, Jr., and Mr. Gilbert Wilkes, III.)

⁠(Library of Congress.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(From Harper's New Monthly Magazine, March 1865).

⁠(From Harper's New Monthly Magazine, August 1871.)

⁠(Courtesy of U.S. Naval Academy and Smithsonian Institution.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.) ​

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(U.S. Department of State.)

⁠(Library of Congress.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Naval Historical Center.)

⁠(Courtesy of Mr. Gilbert Wilkes, III.) ​

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At the instigation of my wife & Children I am induced to give the Record of my life as stated in my various Diaries kept for my own satisfaction and reference to the events, often trivial in their nature, which may give them pleasure as a momento of the occupations and actions, mostly personal, the Record of which will be detailed rather voluminously of my younger days as elicited from those who had charge of my bringing up and what I myself have had impressed upon my memory. It all is reliable and truthful and is compiled from very many incidents and acts in which I was a participant.

There is no feeling that anything is existing in My mind to make it appear that I was at an early age considered a wonder or was looked upon as foreboding any distinguished Role to be played in after life, but will clearly show how far the circumstances incident to all childhood led to the future life of which a large part has been devoted to your Welfare and happiness. It may give you all pleasure or an interest.

The whole narrative will necessarily be somewhat egotistical, but how can one write about oneself, and those connected with our lives, without being in some measure So. I want you to bear in mind therefore I am writing for your amusement hereafter of Scenes and incidents that have been done and occurred to myself. These may appear somewhat trite and in many respects imperfect, yet they are faithful as far as they go. The description of places well known & well written of I have omitted to go into details as the fullest accounts are already in print & can be referred to easily on the shelves of any library. I have only touched such parts of the picture as I deemed required filling up and in which I have been an actor or participator.

It will be difficult for me at this time to give the genealogy of our family as I must do it from what has been narrated to me—principally by my sister who had, from being the oldest and the constant companion of my father in the latter years of his life, [become] the chronicler of the family History. I shall not go back very far to give an outline of my descent. My grandfather was Israel Wilkes—who was the eldest issue of Israel, a Brewer in the city of London and who had two Sons, Israel & Jno. Wilkes, or Wilkes No. 45^[1] as he is often called, and a ​Daughter, Afterwards Mrs Deponthieu. Israel Wilkes, my grandfather, had two sons & a daughter, John, my father, being the eldest, Charles and Frances, who married Mr Louis Simond of Lyons, France in 1797.

My father was the first to immigrate to this country, shortly after the Revolutionary War broke out. Then in his 20th year, he had but little funds and was recommended to Wm Seton of New York who gave him employment in New York. Too young to enter into any business, but studied Law with [blank]. At the close of the war in 1783 he returned to England and then returned with his Father & Mother & Sister, leaving his brother Charles still at Eton.

My father was an Eton Boy and was a fag^[2] to [blank], who was unmerciful in his treatment. He had gone through the Primary School of Dr Busby and graduated at Eton. He received a good education, which his father endeavored to bestow on him. The inducement to emigrate was owing to the political opposition to his family from the opposition of his Uncle who was, at that time—before the Revolutionary War, a great opponent to the Govt & King and was persecuted for his political opinions being a firm & fine Radical of those days as appears in many of the violent discussions that then took place in favor of the American Revolution. He was more notorious for his actions in the vindication of the liberty of the press and the rights of the Subject.

After my Mother's death^[3] I was taken charge of by an intimate friend of my father's & mother's, a Madame d'Olive—a French lady of great beauty, accomplishments & [illegible] who was the next door neighbor at Bloomingdale some 8 miles then from the city. Madame d'Olive was the wife of a finished gentleman from France who had come to this country to escape the horrors of the French Revolution with ample Means, and a man of Note. He afterwards died of the Yellow Fever and his widow and children returned to France. I was cherished by her and allied to her nursery. This continued for sometime, but my father deemed it important for me that my early education should be in English and not in French and from then I was taken & consigned to the care of an Aunt, Mrs. Seton,^[4] who afterwards became a convert to the Catholic faith and was subsequently the Lady Abbess of the Convent at Emmetsburg, Maryland. I did not remain with her long. She was on the eve of going to Italy to join her husband. She changed her faith under influence of the priesthood after her husband's death.

The character of boys and their ways & mischiefs were far more indicative of their temperament and liberty some fifty years ago than at present. Young America had not yet been born, and a feeling of action was allowed them which is unknown at the present day. They were much more uproarious and more under surveillance. I have thoroughly impressed upon my memory many fun frolics that we had in mischief ​and were often the terror of the neighbours household and servants in particular.

Old Polly Drury, our housekeeper, was kept in continual alarm as our Saturday holiday came around and it took little to intimidate her to procure for us our bread and molasses for lunch in order to save her from the apprehension of some trick or mischief. She was a kind old soul and was always ready to make excuses for our behaviour to others when charges were brought against us. She always thought it was better to have a crowd of boys than one or two, for the lot would amuse each other and keep us out of mischief toward herself, but one or two boys had much deviltry in them and caused her many a fright.

Poor old soul, I can see her now in her nice dress of Calico, clean white apron and becoming white maid's cap so appropriate and withal so absent from all fuss and finery or pretensions to copy her superiors. She was as one of the family, and had her say in most things, particularly in all that appertained to the dairy and the making of spruce beer at which she was not to be equalled, and of which my father was exceedingly fond during the summer months. The stone Jugs were all methodically arranged on the clay floor of the underground cellar in rows of which she kept the account, at least I suppose so, in her head for she could not write. It was difficult for us to get at this store of beverages. The cellar was carefully locked and the key usually secreted, known only to herself where. And as she was seldom abroad it was difficult for any one at any time to get into it, and a chance at the inviting beer jugs. But not withstanding all her precautions, we were enabled to evade her watchfulness and in order to prevent discovery an [illegible] precaution became necessary.

It was Polly['s] custom to take a short nap after dinner and it was then our choice time. The key was detected in the hanging place which though frequently shifted was [illegible]. The cellar was opened and the Beer jugs seized and carried out & concealed for future use for a frolic and their places carefully filled by the empty ones which were deposited with the corks by the side and served to deceive the good old soul that they had burst from being too ripe and their contents consequently escaped. Poor Polly was dreadfully put to it to account for the ripening of her beer so fast, but it was most excellent and was enjoyed by us boys accompanied as it was by a huge piece of Cake of her own making. She often had misgivings of how those jugs emptied themselves. She knew it was not the servants and if in her mind it was us boys, she had the wisdom not to let it be known to us. She thought there was no harm in boys tricks & would laugh very heartily at all she saw & heard of except the putting of snakes in the Kitchen and Laundry for she had a most intolerable fear of reptiles either alive or dead.

Polly was as fond of us as we were of her, though she did not hesitate to say that she was very glad when Monday came & we went to school for the week. Polly was of the medium height, spare and muscular, a clear laughing eye, some little colour in her cheeks and of Irish Scotch extraction. She came to this country with her parents who both died ​in a few years. Having taken Service in our family, she remained there until her death Some two decades afterwards. She was a faithful good woman and apparently contented and happy.

My nurse and foster mother was Mary Reed, or as I always called and knew her, Mammy Reed. She was of Welsh extraction, extremely pretty with a clear brunnete complexion and brilliant dark hazel eyes. Her hair was jet black, rather coarse and straight, her forehead somewhat low and a marked intelligence in her face, with features well proportioned, good mouth and teeth, in her person, scrupulous, neat and tidy in her dress. She had been married to a gardener by the name of Reed who died leaving her one son whom she lost a short time afterwards, all the relations or affections she had. And, on taking Charge of me, her whole affection and care was centered in Me and every care that a mother in her situation of life could bestow was given to me. I was of course her constant care and to her keeping I was almost entirely confided. Such was my attachment to her that with nobody else could I be content. She was proud of her boy, as she always called me, and continued to do so until the last time I saw her some 30 years afterwards.

Mammy Reed had many superstitions and some Idea that she was blessed with the gift of second sight and always profesied I would follow the sea and become an Admiral while she toted me about in her arms with my blue satin cap and embroidered cloak, now an heirloom in the family. Though of medium height, she was not very strong and with good nature & energy of her character never tired of the care of me. I was indeed truly her own boy and she was in due time entrusted with all that appertained to my care. After I was weaned, she still continued the care of me and, until I was old enough, I was part and parcel of herself. She subsequently married a man by the name of White, likewise a gardener, and had a large family by him; but she invariably asserted that she never did nor could she love one of them equal to her "Charley boy."

Always at my return home from school or sea and for many years she would come to get my clothes to wash out, and it was only in the way of gifts and presents she could be induced to take anything for her kindness & attentions. [She] always came to see me and although she might not have anything to say she sat looking at me, or, as she said, kind of feasting her eyes on me, & at times it was almost impossible for me to get rid of her. There was about her a peculiar piercing & I might say it almost amounted to fascination in her eyes, altho', she had at this latter time grown very stout, thick and stumpy, with very swarthy dark gipsy complexion and ruddy strong look, with those bright dark hazel eyes peering from her rounded and full face, here and there with tufts of hair on warts, and a considerable length of moustache on her upper lip, very dark and glossy—altogether a wild like look which gave her the appearance of a witch. Her courage was undaunted and I doubt if she knew what fear was, she never showed it. Her mode of living & location in a Shantie on the Harlem Common gave her, throughout that section of the suburbs of New York, the appellation of the ​Witch, and I have been told she practiced the art of fortune telling to some profit. She certainly never denied it when I, in after years, asked her about it. She thought second sight was inherited by her, and her proficising relative to myself after I had entered the Navy fully confirmed her in it. She often said to my sister, "Did I not tell you what my boy would become?" But my sister often told her I was only a mid in the American Navy & there were no Admirals in this country. She always replied, "Never mind, There will be," and her proficy would come true.

She was of that class of faithful servants who knew hard work and had the energy to continue it. After her 2nd marriage, with White, he became the gardener of Mrs Renwick, the mother of my first wife, [at] Bloomingdale where [the] Whites lived in a cottage and took care of the vegetable garden. Mammy White then assisted to support her family by washing & used to go to the city in her horse & cart on Monday & bring out the clothes and on Saturday she was seen taking them again to the city in their Inspection ordered condition. I believe they remained as Gardener to Mrs Renwick for several years. Most of her children were born there. Her first and oldest boy she named after me, Charles Wilkes White, whom she apprenticed to a glass blower and the last I heard of him he was engaged in his trade near Boston.

Mammy White was extremely fond of Mrs Renwick & her family, especially of her Daughter little Jane then probably about 12 years of age and for whom she had a great liking and often left her to gather all the flowers about her cottage of which both Mr White & herself were very fond, but no one else would they permit to touch them. After Mrs Renwick removed from the country White sickened and subsequently died leaving Mammy White with her large family of five children to work and care for — after this she removed to the Harlem Common in a coarse & solitary shantie surrounded by bare rocks and small growth of scrub ash about half a mile removed from any dwelling. She had her horse cart & cow & a few pigs & a small plot for truck with a hurdle fence around it. A wild situation as I found it on one occasion of a visit and I felt that the impression left on my mind after the visit and chat with her [was] not much surprise that she was regarded as a witch. I thought she rather gave encouragement to it, as she felt it was a great protection to her, she never lost any of her clothes though constantly in the habit of leaving them out all night. She appeared to be well aware of the general opinion concerning her. I must say I was greatly impressed with herself and the whole surroundings, and an indescribable feeling that there might be some reason for the general opinion entertained by the surrounding neighborhood. She looked the gipsy & probably acted as bravely. There was no report to her disadvantage. No one said ought against her honesty and current deportment and she had many friend[s] & good customers in the city. [She] devoted herself to her business with punctuality and was a most excellent laundress.

Shortly after my visit, I received one from her there stopping with my ​Brothers in Pine Street before going for a cruise. She first told me she had come to get another look at me. She had nothing to say but she had dreamed & thought of me & felt she must come & feast her eyes on me, and bright, glaring, wild like I saw them. It was impossible to meet her stare. She was a great talker, and chatted amusingly about incidents, and proper. Altho' some 20 years had passed since I was borne in her arms, I always felt a great fondness for her, indeed I might almost call it affection. I was greatly astonished when she told me she knew whom I was to marry. "Why, Mammy, I am too young to have thoughts of such a thing." "Yes, I know that, but I know who will be your future wife." I looked at her; was extremely astonished as my looks no doubt showed; and felt an indescribable feeling I yet entertain at the remembrance. She waited a few minutes and repeated again she knew it would come to pass in perhaps not many years. I recovered myself and jokingly laughed it was no doubt like her proficy of my becoming an Admiral when you held me in your arms, but altho' I was a sailor & in the Navy, there was little chance of my attaining that rank for it was not known in this country & probably never would be. She persisted in it, that it would be. She would tell me then the name of her to whom I was to be married and it was Jane Renwick, who some ten years afterwards became my wife. She was very persistent in this & I had only to laugh and tell her if she told me so many things to happen in future I should come to the belief that Mrs. White was a witch. She said something which I understood so far as I was concerned she was awake to my welfare & happiness. By way of amusement I had often the opportunity of a talk with her and what my horoscope in her view forbode, but she declined to tell me her reasons for such. They no doubt were after my jesting which, however, she took in every good faith.

A more sincere and faithful creature and one more attached to a foster child I do not believe has existed. She has offered me time & again her favors and begged if there was any thing she could do for me, it would gladden her heart. All her children were as nothing to this love she gave me and as far as she was able I should want for nothing. I have always had a warm bias in her altho' I cannot [refute] that she had the looks and impressed [many] with idea of a witch &, whether just or not, she would have been in Conn., not a century ago, committed to the flames. I was however fully [aware] that Mammy White had a true sense of religion, though not of any decided faith. She had charity, love for all men, and a deep sense of honesty and her duty toward her maker. So far as I know, every duty was truly & faithfully performed and her conduct unimpeachable in anyway.

I have said she knew of the sobriquet she went by and did not take any trouble about it. She was left unmolested and was free from intrusion. During the War of 1812 my brother commanded a company in a New York Regt which was encamped not far distant on the Common and he ascertained that the prevailing opinion was as reported, but they left her unharmed & she remained kindly treated although [others] were pilfered of almost everything in [the] way of Poultry, Pig[s], ​Vegetables, as well as clothes; she alone escaped & she always spoke kindly of the treatment the officers & soldiers gave her. She was a harmless witch to them, and if they were deterred through fear of her powers, it was a happy circumstance for her.

When we parted with Mammy White, it was difficult to know what to do with me. My Sister was too much engaged at her lessons and [had] too much to do as the head of my father's house to take charge of me and no faithful nurse offered, indeed one such as Mammy White could not be found and her increasing family and occupation prevented her longer continuance in the care of me. I was just passed four years. My brothers Jno., Henry, & Ed. were at Mr Striker's school at Belleville, N.J. and it was determined that I should be put there to be under their care and that of Mrs Stryker. The Holidays had passed & they were to return. My father determined to take me himself with my brothers, and I was to be left; for a long time before, I had been always with him, taking me to his office, and there I played all day contentedly and watched for all his friends who called almost daily to see him and they always showed me attentions & brought me bonbons and Candies. I supposed I was in a fair way of being Spoilt by the notice and idleness and caused my father no little anxiety to have the care of me & greatly in his way at times. When we went home at dinner time I was then in charge of the Man Servant, Peter, who had a great penchant for teasing me. I was a round fat chubby boy with a round distended Stomach and it was one of his delights to bribe me to let him feel it, for which he was in the habit of offering me lumps of sugar. Why he took delight in this novel mode of teasing I never could understand, but I recollect I often treated him to a box on the ear or slap in the face and made a run to my father or sister for protection.

Well, it was determined that I should be of the party to take the boys to school some nine miles from New York on the Pasaic River and as I always clung to my father I was truly happy to go. We all started bag & baggage & in due time, the same day, reached Mr Stryker's. My Brothers had been there before and were warmly welcomed by their school fellows who came to greet them — but I did not like the appearance of things, not that of Mr Stryker or his wife. Mr S. was tall & spare looking and dreadfully marked with the confluent small pox and very uninviting to my eye. There were certain ominous movements that I did not quite understand, but every endeavor to get me away from my father was resisted by me and I clung to his leg with my little clasped arms. I suppose I must have begun to fear a separation from what a child would naturally observe going on around him. A great many inducements were held out to me to get me away from my father but all failed; and when I saw my father take off his gold spectacles, wipe his eyes and the glasses, my fears were aroused and it was impossible to quiet me. Finally it was held out to me that there was a blue calf in the Barn to be seen, and so pretty, it would take only a moment to go there. This staggered me, and the urging of my father induced me to go with my brother Jack to see it. I did & although it was but for a short ​time, my father had departed and I was left inconsolable — a poor little castaway boy. It was impossible to pacify me and I cried myself to sleep and was taken to my brother's bed inconsolable and heartbroken. Young as I was, the impression is still on me & It is the first event of my life that I have any distinct recollection of. I was far too young to be entrusted to those who had control over me and I suppose it was only through dire necessity that I was sent away at that time. I can recollect distinctly my seat in school — a small wooden stool at the foot of Mr. Stryker's rostrum or raised platform, at one end, facing all the boys desks and it was little profit to me for I do not believe I even learned my letters. No attention was paid to me and I was left alone to amuse myself if I could in various ways, with now & then a firm growl from Stryker to keep quiet and make no noise. I sat there unhappy as a boy well could be & held in terrorism by the constant and repeated floggings with the ferule which the boys received for lack of study, noise or mischief.

The school was about 30 in number & they all boarded with Mr. S. except two or three gentlemen's sons in the neighborhood named Rutgers of Belleville. My brothers were of course my protectors, and many a fight they had on my account — particularly my brother Henry, who, more fiery than either my brothers Jack & Edmund, was ever ready to avenge the hazings some of the older boys gave me. I recollect distinctly the fight that occurred with a local Indian (there were 3 of them at School), ill tempered fellows and who were always teazing me in one way or another. In one of these [fights] the eldest of them drew his knife on my brother and attempted to stab him for which he got a severe castigation and was expelled from the School.

Mrs Stryker paid little or no attention to me. I was a great trouble, I suppose, to her in the mending of my clothes, and when the following vacation came round I was literaly in Rags and [that] was the cause of my being taken home. Thence I was sent to Mammy Dixon near Scarsdale in Westchester County who had a few day scholars and took me as a boarder. My father's partner, Major Popham, lived not far off and he, with Mrs Popham, took the care of me. This was a far more fitting place for one so young, and Mammy Dixon was the kindest of school teachers and gave me full instructions and attention and I rapidly learned to spell, read & write. I have not much recollection of her person. She had two grown daughters, assistants, and I was cherished & seen to. When not in School, I had my play, a small patch for a Garden & worked assiduously at it having received from my father a present of garden tools for a child. These were brought to me by Maj Popham; and the delight they gave me, being the first present I recollect to have had. The impression has remained indelible. At the time of my stay at Scarsdale I recollect distinctly the occasion of the eclipse of the sun — and one of [the] Miss Dixons tracing the pattern of the well marked shadows on a sheet of paper to work by — the explanation given one of the phenomenon was made plain to me and I have had it often recalled to my recollection since in my astronomical studies and observations. ​I probably remained at Mammy Dixon's about two years — Going home at vacation times. Once I was taken to New York by Mr Morris in his sulky sitting between his legs. And, again, being sent by the stage which passed Mammy Dixon's daily, and thought it a high frolic. The driver was a facetious fellow & had names for his team such as Nailor, [illegible], Jackanapes & Ridder that I used in driving in my make believe stage and mounted on my box & brown sticks for horses. I have forgotten the driver's name. Once we encountered a wicked thunder storm which beat into the front of the stage when he turned the horses & stage round to keep us dry and place the horses as he said as they did not like to face the storm. We remained quiet for ½ hour & then again turned & proceeded our way. He told me that was the way he treated his team and kept himself dry. I think his name was Bill Speers but his actions and sayings made a more lasting impression on me. He deposited me at my father's door and said he had a young lubber to be delivered there. Oh, how I did rejoice to be home and again with my dear father. My vacation soon was ended & black Monday brought with it its trials and tears.

After I left Mrs Dixon's I was transferred to Newark, New Jersey to board with Mrs Clarkson, an estimable & kind lady who had known my mother well, to go to the Academy there kept by Mr. Findley^[5]. It was a large school and the Receptacle of all classes. At Mrs Clarkson's I was very happy. She was the kindest of women & withall a lady [illegible] though in reduced circumstances. Here I met with an accident by attempting to climb over a rail fence to reach something that was being offered me, my foot was on an old gate or door half the height of the fence and in my endeavor to reach & get what was handed to me my foot pushed the door from the fence and to prevent falling I seized hold of the top of the fence and the nails entered my right hand and I hung suspended until aid came to my relief & I fell, the nails having torn & left me senseless on the ground. The physicians were called for and the whole neighborhood [was] in an uproar by the exaggerated reports. I was a good deal injured and my right hand terribly lacerated &, apprehensive of lockjaw, my father & sister were summoned. It was some weeks before I was permitted to go out. I finally recovered but the scars have indelibly fixed themselves and my little finger has ever since been crooked.

On leaving home for Newark I was much struck with a remark of my father's a few days before that rain or shine we should go on Monday. So unusual for him as we always had felt that a rainy time extended our holiday. Prior to [illegible] & had been several weeks at Newark, and a few days after arrival I was busily engaged, driving my blank team in one of Archy Gifford's coaches without horses, when Mr Foster passed & said to me, "Well, my boy, have you heard the news?" "No Sir." "Why, your father was married on Wednesday night!" This was the first I had of it, and readily saw the reason why we were sent to school, rain or shine.

​My father had married Mrs John Rodgers^[6] of New York. It was a great surprise to us, but as a boy it made but little impression on me at the time. I loved my father dearly and whatever he did was right in my mind, as far as I was able to see, but of course I had little idea what changes were to befall me. Subsequently I came to the conclusion that it was a marriage of convenience & always believe[d], as I do now, that it was a very unsuitable one for him. He was highly educated and a gentleman of refined feeling, but Mrs Rogers had not these acquirements—and, although well born, she had not been educated and frequently, in common parlance, murdered the King's English. She was born in England; was, I suppose, exceedingly pretty of which she had some [illegible]; had married Mr Rogers on a visit he had made on business. After his death, Mrs Rogers was left a widow with three children, two sons and a daughter, all young as were my father's children. She had an ample fortune but it was in real estate & my father's means, though ample, had many bills upon him from various sources which it was difficult for him to meet. This was in times of the War of 1812 and business had very much decreased and the rental of Mrs. Rogers was comparatively little and very uncertain. This I well recollect as I was frequently sent by my father to collect rents and generally returned empty handed. Mrs Rogers estate has, of course, with the improvement of property, real estate, become exceedingly valuable and her children benefited by it—the ⅓ only being assigned to Mrs Rogers. After my father's death, which took place in Feby of 1818, the families separated and we have had nothing to do with them since.

My stepmother was always exceedingly kind to me and gave me every pleasure that was in her power, but it was impossible for me not to observe and feel the difference in my home. When I had been at home I was almost my father's constant companion.

About this time my father determined to visit Philadelphia to consult Dr Physic, the celebrated physician at that time, for [a] disease he had been afflicted with for some time believed to be the stone which occasioned him at times excruciating agony. He determined to go in his carriage which was fitted up for travelling, and as I had but slowly recovered from a fever and [was] greatly addicted to chills, he determined to take me with him. We accordingly set out to make easy stages. The carriage was easy and we had a very fine pair of horses. The party consisted of my father, Mrs Wilkes, my sister and myself. On our way we met with no interruption or accident until we reached Bristol, where we found a very large concourse of people and no accommodations. It was the week of the Races. The day was exceedingly hot and one of the horses showed great restlessness and irritation. Our coachman, old John Lyle, had great difficulty in controlling him and urged my father to stop but this was impossible for want of getting any place to accommodate us in. The inns at that time were small. It was determined to drive on to Philadelphia. This we reached by nightfall and were hos​pitably received by Mr Wm. Rawle, one of my father's oldest friends, and his family who had procured lodgings for us directly opposite his home in 3rd Street where we were soon comfortable fixed.

I can well recollect the kindness of that family. Mrs. Rawle was a Chew and had been a great beauty. They had a large family and a hospitable mansion. Mrs Rawle, finding I had the chills, took me in charge and daily gave me a dose of Peruvian bark^[7] in powder rolled up in a light paste wafer; it was detestable to take but she managed to get me to take it, nauseating as it was. I did everything to avoid it but she prevailed and broke up the chills. There were two children of my own age, Frank & Tom, but they were at school. I was made a great pet of and passed much of the whole of my time at their house. My sister and the Misses Rawle, Miss Beckey, a beautiful girl, had a nice time of it and were very gay in the society. My stepmother was like a fish out of water, the society was too refined and intelligent for her but they treated her very kindly.

My father's consultation with Dr Physic did not result in any good. He found there was no necessity of making an operation as the disease was the gravel, & not the stone, and required a different treatment. The excruciating agony of his attacks were depressing. Oftentimes have I seen the large drops of perspiration collecting upon his forehead, accompanied with a low whistle and an assumed quiet that greatly affected me. He never became irritable but bore it all with great patience. Fortunately they did not endure any great length of time. He had suffered more or less since a young man with it and I have heard him frequently remark, "Thank God, it was not a hereditary disease," of which he was assured by the most eminent Physicians before his marriage to my mother, and it has proved so, for none of his offspring have experienced it.

The renewal of his old friendship and intercourse with Mr Rawle, a lawyer of the highest stand[ing] in Phila., was a source of great pleasure to them both for they had not met for many years, though corresponding. Philadelphia was then far different from what it has become. I suppose it possessed the best and most enlightened society in the country, as I have often heard my father remark. I had my own fun there. What attracted my attention most was the great walnut trees (English) in Mr Rawle's garden, and through Mrs Rawle's kindness I was permitted to knock down as many as I liked — after I swallowed the odious dose.

The morning after our arrival John Lyle came in to announce that the horse had died from the heat and overexertion of the day's travel. This was a pet horse & a beautiful animal. A few days afterwards an exchange was made for another pair with the one left and a sum of money besides. All of us regretted the accident and the necessity of being forced to cause the overexertion.

We returned to New York by easy stages & met with no detentions. The last place we stopped at was Newark, at Archy Gifford's tavern ​whom my father had long known. He was truly the type of an English landlord and knew how to treat his guest, as [he] was both respectful and attentive. I have often heard my father say it was really a great pleasure to be under his roof. Mr Foster, of whom I have before spoken of, was very attentive. He was retired from business and residing in Newark with his family, both he and Archy Gifford, before the War of 1812 with Great Britain. There has been only one other Tavern Keeper of this type whom I have met in this Country and this was John Gadsby of Washington.

For those years I had many private masters in the Languages, Mathematics & Drawing which [I] was kept close at. I much profited by [the masters] as they were very competent and most extraordinary in their attention to my studies. It was at this time I became enthusiastic for a Sea life, to which my father, I well knew, was decidedly opposed. My course of study was very close. I had my own little room off the parlour but no communication with it. After my lessons had been gotten, it was my constant practice to read several Chapters in the Bible every night and then joined the family at 10 o'clock where I found company and not infrequently made one of a party for a short time. I improved much in these years and had no other companions than my books and teachers. But I have anticipated some few years of my school days which I will now return to.

My time at the Academy or High School at Newark was not of much assistance to me. Mr Finley, the head Master, was considered a good teacher, but his school was altogether too large and his assistants but few and there was little improvement among any of his scholars. The Academy was a large building but the directors of it were, if competent to direct it, extremely careless and neglectful of their charges, and, after a session or two, my father became satisfied that there were but few advantages for education, principally, I believe, on the ground of the large number of scholars which gave the Academy some reputation.

I was then sent to an academy at Albany kept by one Mr McDugald^[8], a Scotchman, who was well known among the boys by the name of "Inky." Three of my Cousins were at this School and I boarded at one of my uncle's and was in his care to keep me out of harm's way. Mr McDonald's school was said to be a Select School for the Languages and Mathematics, but the impression left on my mind is not favorable to his instruction or control of the School. It consisted of some 20 scholars, as wild a set of boys as could be gathered together and were prone to all kinds of mischief. The morning hours of the school were pretty well conducted, and lessons recited, but the afternoons were somewhat uproarious and little instruction given or received. Inky MacDonald was somewhat given to drowsiness. He was of short stature, square built and corpulent, with a full and rather bloated face; and withall a most irritatable temper which was often taken advantage of, to the great amusement of the boys. Generally, however, he was good tempered in ​the morning, but, as we had recess at noon & then afternoon School at 2 til 5, he was often, I am inclined now to believe, under the influence of his potations.

He was addicted to napping and one of the scholars, who was his apparent favorite, used, while reciting to him when partially drowsing, to sprinkle some Sand on his head which he usually wore very closely cropped and would brush it off to the infinite amusement of the whole school.

With the boys he had many rows and was occasionally very severe in his castigations. I think it was owing to one of them that his school became unpopular and very many of his pupils were withdrawn. This was the case with my cousins and myself and we were transferred to the private instruction of Dr Banks at Florida in Montgomery County, some fifteen miles west of Schenectady, who had opened a school for a few to prepare them for entrance to Schenectady College^[9].

Dr Banks was a very excellent scholar, classical, and the pastor of a small church of Scotch Presbyterians who were settled in and around Florida. Dr Banks was a very peculiar man, exceedingly studious and devoted to the classics, particularly Hebrew, Greek and Latin, but as a teacher he was unfitted for the slow comprehension of boys and their understanding his explanations. His temper was very quick and irrascible and at times passed all control execpt that of his wife, who, fortunately, was all powerful to calm and bring him to reason. He was of Herculean frame, upwards of six feet and well developed in all respects, about 250 lbs weight and very active and enduring. Generally, he was kind in speech to us boys and extremely desirous to give us all the assistance and attention. He had some ten pupils, five of us in his home—my three cousins, Wm. James of Albany, young Porter and myself. His family consisted of his wife and four boys of whom Eben and wee Wallie were his favorites. Mrs Banks was truly a motherly lady, placid and even tempered and always maintained a pleasing and cheerful countenance. I do not recollect the whole time I was under her care of once even seeing her ruffled altho' the Dr's temper was enough to aggravate the angels. The Dr wore a brown wig which was somewhat large and would at times get away—giving him somewhat of a comical look. His complexion was florid, his head well shaped and intelligent countenance. At times he was very austere, which threw the whole family into great alarm and no one could assuage him except his amiable wife whose control over him was at all times effective in moderating his ire and bringing him to his reason. When I look back at my boyish recollection I feel almost in doubt at what I witnessed as a looker on—that a man of his acquirements and undoubted strong sense and benevolence could have been guilty of such folly through an uncontrolled temper, and often ejected from the most trivial act.

One of the most galling was the smoking of his stove in his study. He had no idea how a fire ought to be made and generally put the coals ​well back in the Stove & green wood in front. On one occasion he called for his son Eben, who was a boy of 16, and his not coming to the call he flew and siezed the banisters of the stairs and wrenched them off from top to bottom. Everyone rushed out from all sides and there the Dr stood like a Hercules with a post in his grasp. It was impossible for us to refrain from laughing which seemed at once to restore his equilibrium. The voice of Mrs Banks was heard and the Dr exclaimed, "what a fool." He was retired into his senses. When he appeared at the meal time he was as composed as if nothing had taken place. It would naturally be presumed that his pupils would have been under great intimidation at his untoward violence but such was not the fact—we had learned to avoid his outburst of temper and overlook them. In the recitations of our lessons he was usually very kind and considerate to most of us except James, who early left his study withal fear and trepidation as a book generally followed his egress. He seemed to be unacceptible to the Dr. He was an extremely ugly boy, though quick in parts. He had a large head and very carroty hair and a freckled face with a very uncouth look and, withal, quizzical. It made a good deal of impression on us as the one who followed James in the recitation was always in some trepidation of the reception he might receive but invariably he was found restored to good humour and exceedingly kind.

There were many little circumstances that occurred which gave us all the greatest fun, to the greatest distress of the Dr. I recollect once when the Dr had engaged me to assist him in getting a back log for the kitchen and which we were rolling together when the Dr.'s foot unfortunately slipped on the ice. He fell over the log, lost his hat and wig, and was at once plunged into a most untoward rage. It was too ridiculous for me and I burst out in a most uncontrollable fit of laughter. Mrs Banks, who was in the doorway, joined me, & the effect upon the Doctor in quieting him, picking up his wig and hat, he passed off into the house most quietly and tempered down—the effect of Mrs Banks' cheerful and honest laugh with all due respect for her husband. I shall ever have it impressed on my recollection the charm of good nature and kindness she always exhibited on such occasions.

"Old Dick," the Dr's Black horse, was a great source of amusement to us and an irritation of course to the Dr. Dick would have his own way pretty much, particularly when the students, as the Dr always pleased to designate us boys, had been riding him to what was called the Shed, some 7 miles distant, during the preceeding Night and the Old fellow would not permit the Dr to mount him from the block, which was his usual habit, but would not stand until the Dr could put his leg over him but shy round his hinder parts again and again. This he could bear for a while but his irritation gradually overcame him and resulted in Dick's receiving some awful kicks and being led back to the stable and off the Dr would trudge on foot. Dick was too tired to bear the heavy load of his master after one of his midnight trips. Mrs Banks would often join in the fun.

The country around Florida is a beautiful rolling country about three ​miles south of the Mohawk Valley and settled by the strictest Scotch Presbyterians. The town of Florida consisted only of a Meeting House, tavern, black-smith shop and Store with a few farm dwelling houses in sight. My stay there was nearly two years, but I did not improve in my studies to suit the wishes of my father. The Schoolmaster was for a higher class than boys on the rudiments and, in consequence, I was brought home and then placed at a Boarding School at Greenwich under a Mr Smith, with some 30 scholars. It was situated just beyond Potters field and opposite what was called Ludlows field, on, then, the outskirts of New York, inhabited by the class of people that had gathered from all quarters of the Globe and inhabiting the houses and Shanties which had been built during the Yellow Fever outbreak a few years before. They were a kind of rowdy set and opposed to all the upper class of Boys and the terror of our school and war was openly declared between these parties. Various conflicts had taken place and generally the Smith boys were driven in, the older boys not having the pluck to stand their ground and the younger ones, of whom I formed one, were often the sufferers and the Ludlows field being generally the contested ground. We seldom ended our play, particularly on a Saturday afternoon.

The Livingstons, Lovets and Depuysters of the first class did not show a disposition to fight it out, but the younger boys felt the deprivation and disgrace of being driven in by a set of Butchers Boys and Ragamuffins and it was determined a stand should be made and a pitched battle fought, to conquer if we could. Under this resolution we organized and the fight came off. It was well contested and was well fought on both sides with Stones & Brickbats hurled with a will. Finally, after two or three hours, the ragged urchins and butchers boys gave way & were closely pursued and it was brought to a close by a half brick which I had thrown at an older butcher boy, which struck him in the head and over he fell. This produced great consternation and the fight closed under the impression that the Butcher boy had been killed. He was carried off.

On turning round, two other boys & myself saw our Retreating comrades making full retreat and we were soon followed by ½ dozen grown men to the School to see Mr Smith, and, as they said, to have the boy who had thrown the brickbat pointed out and arrested. Mr Smith immediately summoned all the larger scholars and they were confronted with the accusers but could point out no one; and then the whole school was brought out but no one was to be identified when, feeling that I had been the culprit, if there were any in the affray or fight, I stepped forward and admitted I had thrown the missile. This, as I was among the youngest, they discredited. It was proved the Butcher boy, when struck, had his hat full of stones and was one of the most conspicuous on the opposite side. Mr Smith decided he would not permit me to be taken unless under a warrant, and the parties simply took my name and we heard no more of it. The Butchers boy, whose name was Moore, was a brave lad and was one of the last in the retreat of his party, some 30 strong who were beaten off the field. I have always held him in high ​estimation. This put a stop to the feuds and after a time we heard that Moore was out of danger and the fights ceased.

The youngsters of our school were far the most resolute and courageous and they had afterwards little consideration for the older ones. The affair made a great stir in the Village of Greenwich and the school was, by Mr Smith's orders, to be kept within certain bounds and held strictly to them. While on the other side, the police, such as it was, prevented the Village boys and their coadjutors from marshalling any forces. It had a disastrous effect upon Smith's School as many of the Parents, mine among the number, removed us from his school.

I was then sent as a day scholar to the Revd Dr Harris, on the East side of New York near the Stuyvesant Meadows, Dr Harris then being Rector of St Mark's Church on Stuyvesant Ave., and had a walk of two miles every day from near the Battery where my father then lived. Dr Harris' was a Select School; he a tutor highly beloved and respected. It was a preparatory school for Columbia College. I remained with him some eighteen months, when my predilection for a naval life became known and I suppose my father, although greatly adverse to my going to sea, induced me to enter the counting House of Messrs. Chescot & Co. This I did not fancy and then I became a boy in my father's office and had certain hours in which masters attended me in Mathematics & the Modern Languages, drawing, &c, which fully kept me employed and affording considerable aid to his business. Some knowledge of Commercial law, drawing up protests &c, & of Sea Captains was more congenial to my wishes; but the hankering after naval life & roving life still grew stronger & stronger. At length my father gave me permission to go to sea.

Application had been made for a warrant for me and a promise if I went to sea, this time [in the merchant marine] should be allowed me in the antedate of my warrant from the Secretary of the Navy. I [was] to choose my ship, this I readily did. It was the Hibernia belonging to Messrs. [William] Craig & Brothers, intimate friends of my father, and of which Capt [H.] Graham was master, who was considered one of the best captains of the port & would be kind and attentive to me. [Hibernia was] then fitting out for the Port of Havre, France.

By this time I had become quite a good Navigator, understood the use of the instruments, could readily make all the calculations & had a Sextant of my own, a present from Mr Jno. Garnett of New Brunswick, the editor of the Am. Nautical Almanac and the projector of the Loxodromic curve. He had a great fancy for nautical problems and through his teaching I became familiar with all the tables & solutions of the various formulae of navigation and the construction of charts, as well as the construction and use of instruments. The Sextant he gave me was taken apart and explained—put again together, the mode of balancing & adjusting the glasses, finding the error of the instrument & the best modes of using it in taking distances, so that before I put my foot on the deck of a vessel I felt capable of navigating & directing her course.

Capt Graham received me kindly & encouraged me in various ways, ​but I was to be a boy before the Mast and to learn to be a sailor. I shall never forget the first time I dressed in my Sailors Jacket & trousers, the vanity and pride I felt, and when I came to show myself to my father, I was greatly astonished to see the tears starting from his eyes. He still used the expression that he had often before, "My dear boy, choose that which is best and custom will make it most pleasant." My Uncle had strongly urged upon my father to let him take me in the Bank of New York, of which he was then Cashier. He would give me a nice compensation and advance me, but I obstinately refused and scouted the idea of my becoming a money changer and was exceedingly affronted at the proposal made me. I afterwards discovered that my father's consent to my going to sea before the mast was his having been impressed with the opinion that a voyage before the mast as a boy would be certain to sicken me of a sea life, going, as I was then, from my happy & luxurious home to encounter the life of a forecastle, and that he had left it with Capt Graham to give me all the hardships he could of a Sailor's life. At this time I was a rosy cheek boy, a pretty Sailor, and left home with a high idea of my consequence. ​ ​

I joined the Hibernia as she lay at anchor in the North River, bag & baggage, but I had no sooner got my bag below when I heard a [illegible] voice calling to me to come on Deck. It proved to be the Pilot, Jack White, and for several hours I had no peace and was kept going here, there & everywhere. I was exceedingly annoyed and if I could, I should have gone at once on shore & left the Ship & this brutal fellow forever. He swore & cursed at me and would fain hurry me up with a rope end; it was Charley here, Charley everywhere. It was not long before I was heartily sick of this. I had been kept aloft & on deck, all the time busy. My hands, that had never been used to labor, were soon in blisters and bleeding, and just before I reached the Hook, White called to me to come down & write to my father, as he was about to leave the vessel. I willingly came but could write but a few lines, my hands were bloody & my tears falling fast. I expressed myself curtly as well as I could under the pain, mortification & disgust I felt and added that I was among a set of brutes. The letter was received by my father the next day at dinner just as he had finished his soup and closed his meal; he could eat nothing and the tears flowed fast to think of the brutes he had placed me under the care of. We had one Dyson, the mate, an ignorant dutchman, & a second mate named Tyler, both of whom took their cue from White, and after the vessel was cleaned up, I was indeed in a pretty plight, all my nice clothes full of tar and my "go to meeting suit," as they called my sailor garb, ruined in my estimation.

The sailors were equally a hard set, most of them half drunk and cursing and swearing and whenever they got a chance, gave me a sly cuff. I was also christened by having a dab of tar on each cheek which covered my beauty spots! I found no place to sleep except in the halser [hawser] tiers in the steerage, but I had not well got to sleep before I was again called and trotted off for the Starboard watch. Dyson, the mate, had charge of it and this brute gave me no rest when it was his watch. I, however, more from pride than anything, put the best face upon it and made myself useful, or rather, obeyed his orders which were of the most annoying kind. I was his first and last care and in succeeding years I scarce can believe the way in which I could have submitted to such treatment. Capt Graham paid me no sort of attention. ​He had been kind in speech on shore, but he was nothing but a growl to those about him and me in particular.

When the time came for observation the next day, the Capt sent for me and directed me to take our observation. This I readily did and at once made the calculations and gave him the latitude, at which he was very much displeased, for I readily saw he was apparently ignorant or made the calculations with difficulty, if he knew how; instead of getting credit for my expertness, I was told to keep "my gab." This was a dreadful discomfiture as I prided myself at that early day on my acquirement. Besides, there were passengers present, among whom was Mr & Mrs De Rham of New York who were very intimate with my family.

The Sea was a great novelty to me and the working of the Ship, for I had from my reading become acquainted with many of the maneuvers and took great delight in watching how things were done practically. I do not believe I could have fallen into the worst hands I did. A more ignorant brutal set of fellows could scarcely have been collected together. Altho' I was not sea sick, I had suffered greatly from erratic pation [passion] of the bowels and was quite unable to move about, no one to whom I could apply but the little Malay steward who administered to me & gave me relief. He was an active & excellent steward & seemed adapted to his situation and from him I received what provisions I needed when he was eating his meals. The fare of the forecastle was not to my liking and I seldom partook of any left in the mess kits, from which the sailors had picked all that was edible. I can remember the loathing I had of seeing these lowest type of sailors at their meals & having to wait upon them, always with a growl or curse upon their lips. In truth, I was heartily sick and disgusted and could I have set my foot on shore, I never would have again consented to be again afloat.

The Capt had left New York without his charts & he was bound for the English Channel. Suddenly one day about midpassage, he called me & told me he had left his charts behind & [wanted] to know if I could make one of the English Channel. I answered that I could if I had any paper and a place to draw on. At this he appeared greatly surprised & said he would try me, evidently doubting my word. The next day I was called into the cabin and sheets of letter paper handed me, bidding me to go to work. So at it I went with a will and made great progress. In fact, I had almost completed it, when I overheard a conversation between Mr De Rham & the Captain relative to his leaving his Charts behind and the idea of his trusting me to construct one. The Capt was obstinate & I thought rude, and, when he left, I took occasion to speak to Mr De Rham & show him that there was no difficulty in my doing it and that if the Capt could not use it, I could. He had great doubts about it and his wife, Miss Moore that was, still greater—"the idea," boy that I was and on my first voyage, to make a chart to sail the vessel by. The Capt, however, was well satisfied when my task was completed & spoke more highly of the performance than was due. He had, however, begun to have some idea of my capacity as I was frequently called upon to take Lunar ​observations and, although I had had little practice at sea, I readily came to take good & satisfactory observations to myself, and the results being so readily & quickly obtained that Capt Graham said he was bound to make me a good navigator & endeavored to take the credit of my expertness by the way in which he spoke of it. But, although I was greatly afronted and provoked, I bore it patiently, believing that the credit he assumed could not last, & it soon proved to be the case, for the passengers saw how it was and this satisfied me; but what puzzled me was his continuing his growling and brutish conduct towards me, and permitted his mates to "haze" me about unnecessarily & to my great discomfort.

The sea was a great delight to me and all its excitements, though of course few, and monotonous, but this underlying enthusiasm carried me through, the vulgar and bearish manner of those on board notwithstanding. Before the end of the voyage, some of the Older Sailors took to me and I was in a manner protected from the petty cruelties that were heaped upon me. And among these I may mention the Cook, a black stalwart fellow, who was taken quite sick and in such cases the medicine chest was resorted to haphazard for remedies. He grew worse, & was attacked with a violent fever and greatly distressed. I saw the Capt feel his pulse and remark that the fellow wanted bleeding, but neither he or his mates could bleed. When he turned to me and asked me if I could bleed, altho' I had never done anything of the kind, but had witnessed the operation, I answered that I could try it, and I was accordingly ordered to bleed the black fellow. It did not signify whether it would do him good or not, he would probably die, but I felt that it ought to be done and soon persuaded him to let me try. I accordingly tied up his arm, took the lancet and opened the vein. It was followed by a copious stream of very dark red blood. I then at once became apprehensive how it was to be stopped and the quantity that ought to be taken from him. The poor fellow seemed at once relieved but in a few minutes became faint and with the little knowledge I had, it occurred to me that he might be dying. The blood gradually ceased to flow and having filled a quart pot with it, I concluded to stop it by a bandage over a pad of wet rags and gave him some hartshorn^[10], which served its purpose to revive him. I laid a blanket under the long boat; the sailors removed him and he slept soundly for several hours. My astonishment was very great when I reverted to the quart pot and found it very like a pot of grease with streaks of blood through it, and felt greatly relieved & repaid for my venturing to make the operation. I was greatly impressed with the total unconcern of all around me at the poor fellow's state and an entire absence of feeling, but the poor fellow [had not] experience; he had become used to it, did not feel it and was so much better after his bloodletting that he became aware of the benefit I had been to him. A little more medicine and some gruel, which the little Malay made for him, soon effected his cure. He had no thanks to give me, and did not ​deem any necessary, and had become restored and was again subject to authority in a certain way.

The cook occupied at that time in merchant vessels a somewhat anomalous position. He was monarch of the Galley & autocrat of everything relative to its cleanliness & good order. The independence his position gave him is felt by all and his duties are not to be interfered with. Various practices were used to control him. He was responsible to the Crew for their cooking, both meats & drink, and should he be under suspicion of those common'g, the remedy was his punishment & various cruel punishments were resorted to; tieing up by the thumbs, making a spread eagle of him in the rigging, and most barbarous floggings with the ropes end as the officer, Capt, Mate, or 2nd Mate, in his anger, chose to inflict. Humanity did not exist on the great deep, and petty tyranny was Rampant. It has always been a wonder to me that so few mutinies are on record, poor Jack has suffered greatly for those who ought to have been his protectors. The tales of the great hardships suffered by Sailors have not been exaggerated and they are subjects of great moment to the country to ameliorate their condition and this I hope will claim the attention of all who have the care of them. There is no class who require it more than sailors; a hard and exposed life, treated like dogs and of no regard to their feelings & improvement. The blame seems to be on the part of the owners of the vessels and their employees, the Capt & Mates who are, for the most part, a set of brutal fellows. This voyage has made a wonderful impression on me & has dispelled the idea I had entertained of their generous and noble & disinterested Masters. But, notwithstanding, I yet saw the childlike confidence and total dependence they had imbibed in their dispositions under all the ill treatment and, I may [say], cruel despotism they suffered tended to give me an abiding interest in these abject slaves of the Sea and the wish that I might, in time to come, ameliorate their condition should it ever be in my power to do so.

As we were approaching the English Channel we had beautiful weather and fair breezes. On one occasion the Hibernia was darting through the seas at a rapid rate with all sails set. It was the Mate's (Dyson's) watch on deck to which I belonged; and the sight of the ship greatly charmed and interested me, the breeze gradually freshened and a coming squall seemed in our wake. Dyson had comfortably [settled] himself and had gone fast asleep, and the watch were content to lie about. I saw the approaching tempest but I heeded it not and let Dyson alone. I well recollect the kind of malicious feeling I had that trouble would come upon him. We had all studding sails set below and aloft; soon the yards & booms began creaking. Suddenly, one of them snapped. Dyson awoke in bewilderment and consternation. The Captain was soon aroused & came on deck to see his ship with sails flapping & tearing from the yards. All hands were called and great the trouble and confusion, cursing & swearing and damning the Dutchman which caused him to stand almost petrified. All idea of what was to be done seemed utterly wanting in the mind of this brute. He was no Seaman and utterly ​unfit for his place. After a couple of hours hard work the ship was made safe, with the tops of all the light sails and some of the larger ones torn almost to shreds. The Captain suspected the cause and was not wanting in the grossest imputation on Dyson. It was such for me and after we had succeeded in obviating further disaster, the Capt suddenly turned upon me and asked me in the gruffest bulldog terms, "Well, youngster, what do you think of this?" I replied, "I thought it a fine breeze." He said, "D—n you, before you have [been] at Sea half as long as I have, you will call it anything but a fine breeze." I was a gainer by it; Dyson was disrated and I was saved from his brutality for the few remaining days of the voyage out.

We reached Havre in safety and went at once into dock. Mr Lafarge, an intimate friend of my father's, who had written him, came on board and solicited the Captain to let him take me on shore to his home for a few days. This was granted and I gladly got rid of the Ship Hibernia, determining in my own mind I would not rejoin her if I possibly could avoid it, and silent made my arrangements to get out of the way and off to Paris. My father had given me a letter of credit on Mr LaFarge, & my uncle, on my leaving, had sent me 480 in Napoleons, so that I was in funds. I quietly ordered myself citizens clothes to be made & as soon as they were finished I engaged my seat on the vélocifère for Paris, changed my clothes at the Tailor's and went direct to the Coach office, without any suspicion on the part of anyone of my intention, and was off to Paris and hoped I might escape detection. The gates passed, I began to assure myself of my safety and travelled to Paris, having obtained the direction of the House where Mr Lafarge put up, and, on presenting myself, was kindly received, though with some surprise. One of the Commis or clerks had seen me at Havre and I found myself in good quarters and, through him, Mr Lafarge was notified of my whereabouts.

I soon became intimate at various houses. The Baron Quinette [Nicholas Marie Quinette, Baron de Rochemont], who was in New York and intimate at my father's, had written to his family & given me a letter to his family. The Count D'Autrives, St. Jean Daugelty, & there were many others, all received me very kindly. The Marquise de Cubières, my godmother, was living in the Petite Ecuyer du Roi in the Place Carousel. All made me at home & I felt very happy & glad of my escape from the vessel & the brutal crew. I was, however, a deserter, and if the Capt had been disposed, might have been taken up by the Police and brought back, but I relied upon Lafarge to look out for me and prevent any action on the Captain's part. My name was on the Rolls of the Ship and I was to be accounted for on his return to New York.

This, my first visit to Paris, made an indelible impression on me. I had every amusement offered me, was indeed domesticated in their families, and enjoyed the many acquaintances I made, both boys & girls. Speaking French, I had every advantage and was made much of; this was all a round of pleasure. I was taken to the Tuillieries by the Marquis & Marquise de Cubières on the fête of St. Louis where I went in Court ​costume, habited in a chocolate-coloured cloth coat, large steel buttons, satin white vest, black satin breeches, & silk stockings, with shoes & large steel buckles, and a rapier at my side. I was in appearance a very queer-looking chap and felt more so, but as my Godmother insisted upon it I had to consent. I need not say that most of the dress was hired for the occasion except a pair of the Marquis' shoes & buckles, he being a small man & I a large overgrown boy, were found to fit.

We went in true court style and, being under the protection of one of the most beautiful women of the Court, I was introduced as her Godson from America. The Good King said a word or two to me and complemented the Marquise gaily. There was a great crowd; the King was to dine in public and we saw the table with its gold dishes, &c. I did not see the Marquis after I entered & it had been arranged by my Godmother that he was to look out for me. The ladies were separated and I was then in a quandary looking round for the Marquis, but he was not to be seen. I was hemmed in on all sides. Suddenly, the crowd began to move and I was borne along towards one side of the Saloon a mange, separated from the table by a railing, and, as we passed, saw the King & Royal family at their meal, quaffing wine & munching the viands which sundry gentlemen in waiting were serving them to. I felt very much out of place in the costume of a Marquis among the crowd of citizens, and created no small surprise, but I was not crowded and respect shown me. Along we went at a slow walk and finally I found myself in another saloon with a large crowd who had passed. There was, however, no return and I concluded it best for me to make my escape, which I did through two or three saloons and finally down the grand staircase, and there I found a state carriage with open door waiting, into which I entered & told the footman to drive me to the Petite Ecuyer du Roi. He at once shut the door and I was driven to the opposite side of the Square & into the courtyard. I can now feel the relief I experienced at the happy escape I had from Royalty and having given the Coachman a five franc piece, I received his thanks and escaped into the house & was soon disrobed & at ease. Whose carriage it was I know not, but it had served me in good turn and saved me from a walk through the crowd across the Square and no doubt from many a hoot and a laugh at my expense. The Marquis de Cubières returned after the fete was over and such a rating as the poor old man got I cannot venture to detail for losing sight of me, but my American impudence had served to amuse them all greatly. The servants were questioned and reported the vehicle to belong to one of the dignitaries of the court.

I omitted to mention the dilemma I found myself in when I came forth dressed before the assembled family, my gloves were too small & my hands yet bore the sign of the tar bucket, unmistakably, but I was made to pass muster by the adroit fingers of my Godmother and her three daughters [Agláe, Adèle, Julia], who pulled out my lace collar [and] wristbands and made my toilet comme il faut. The Marquis' shoes & buckles were not so easily manageable; they were too large for me, very square toed and the buckles pierced my feet with their sharp ​prongs. Add to all this I had a bill to pay of 100 francs for the hire of the suit, which I thought a pretty dear charge for what I had seen & the introduction to the Bon Roi. Royalty has not had much favor in my eyes since, but my Godmother had been pleased, at least so she seemed, and I soon forgot the impressions of my nobility & its habiliments.

The Marquis was one of the Ecuyers du Roi of Louis XVIII. I shall never forget the impression this old Gentleman made upon me as he returned from an excursion of attending the King. He could scarcely dismount until aid was given him. The Marquis told me this was a part of his duty & I was forced to say it was a great shame to make an old man do such duty. They never did so in my country and I am glad to live under a Republic^[11].

But the most farcical thing was to come. I was told it was usual on such fêtes to make presents to les enfants, Madame de Cubières' daughters, & I was next day taken in the carriage & driven to some grand shops where three beautiful silk dresses were purchased and presented to les enfants. This made my purse light and I was not much pleased. Mr Lafarge, fortunately for me, came to Paris and being on intimate terms with the family soon learnt [of] the gifts that had been extorted from me. He laughed very heartily and opened my eyes as to the customs of Mothers & Daughters then, as he said, in every necessitous circumstances and living far beyond their income. Lafarge gave me money to pay for them, but I was not well pleased at the ruse of my Godmother in the celebration of the fête—but I bore it manfully, and the appropriation of a sum to their necessities and anxieties for my amusement fully assured me that they had been amply repaid.

While in Paris I was desirous of seeing all the sights and my commis [aux vivres] was a very amusing & nice fellow, as I thought. Among other places he carried me was the Rouge et Noir gambling saloons in the Palais Royal. I had seen nothing of the kind before and had not even an idea of what gambling was. I was induced to try my chance thinking I might make up what I considered I had lost in making presents, and put my money down. Success at first attended me but in no very long time I found myself left with but a few five franc pieces. I went to my lodging ashamed of myself; I had for the first time gambled & lost heavily from my store. Although I could draw on Mr Lafarge, I felt ashamed at the amount I had already spent. I passed a most uncomfortable night but dreamed I should, if I tried again, replace it & then vowed if I did I would never gamble more. This impression was so strongly imbued in me that I resolved to try my luck again. Like all others I suppose I could, by looking on, ascertain the winning colour and determined to go it. My surprise was great when my Napoleon was pushed to the opposite colour and it won; I left it again & again it won & seeing the pile that had accumulated, I instantly ​withdrew it. My purse was filled. The next turnup the colour I won on was loser and I had escaped. The vow I had made came forcibly to my mind and I turned and left the place and from that time I have never gambled since. My losses had been made good and indeed I was a most relieved and happy boy. My temperment was not such as to withstand the temptation and I feel satisfied had I again entered the list I should have been strongly addicted to games of chance & betting money. I left Paris a few days after and rejoiced that I had been saved from the Vice I had no knowledge of, but always repudiated by my father as beneath a gentleman and which, sooner or later, destroys all the high & noble feelings of manhood.

I had heard that the Hibernia was to sail positively three days before I determined to leave Paris, and I was satisfied she would have gone. What was my surprise, on my arrival, to find she had been delayed by head winds and the Captain was making all inquiries about me. The ship was just ready to depart when I made my appearance, dressed in my sailor's garb. There was a general shout on board by the crew when they saw me, of "sail ahoy." The Captain said not a word to me and I went to my duty as though nothing had taken place. The Mate, Dyson, was away and another in his place. We sailed that same afternoon with several passengers and all seemed well, but it was not to last long and I was to suffer by being well "hazed" around. Contrary winds and little progress soon ruffled the Captain's temper and with it all things on board, and this extended to the passengers.

Unfortunately, the little Malay steward took sick and there was no one to fill his place. The passengers had had their own way as to the edibles & the stores rapidly diminished and the meals were irregular and badly cooked, complaints arose & the irritation on the part of the passengers gave vent & altercations between them and the Captain were frequent. The fare was not what had been promised, there was no pain frais tout les jours as had been advertised, & the coffee & tea was execrable. The poor little Malay was thought to be playing old soldier and, instead of being treated as a sick person, was well flogged in his berth, but he was really sick and unable to do duty. I was therefore taken as Cabin boy to act in his stead. The passengers had drawn up a program of fare for each day for the Malay, which he endeavored to carry out. Our passage was prolonged and with boisterous head winds we made little way, and it became evident that the Cabin Stores would run short. The Captain, therefore, put us on an allowance & I was instructed not to exceed it. It was a new employment for me to wait upon a surly set of passengers, as little like gentlemen as could well be imagined, and a meal scarcely passed without innuendoes and remarks for the Captain, who retorted in high words and frequently near coming to blows. I had taken a great aversion to three or four of them from Boston, real Yankees, and would not permit them to order me and show their ill temper on me, and complained to the Captain, who gave orders they were to have nothing to do with me and forbid them to order anything for meals, he alone would do it.

​One of the assigned dishes on Sundays was a batter pudding. How a batter pudding was made I knew not, but the Malay gave me directions as well as he could. The flour, eggs, &c, were mixed in a large wooden bowl and just as it was ready to be put into the bag, all hands were called to shorten sails in a squall. I left the bowl standing in the pantry, to the beams of which many hams were suspended. The squall was violent and the ship pitched and tossed violently. When it was over I went to the pantry and what was my horror to find one of the hams had broken its brackets and fallen into the bowl of batter. What was to be done. The ham was also to be cooked & the batter could not be lost so I scraped the ham & put the batter into the bag and took the ham & it to the cook to boil; no one had seen it and I resolved to be mum. Dinner was served and all was going nicely when the pudding came for desert. It was a nice-looking dish with cold sauce, sugar & butter beat up. I expected a row to take place. The pudding was an elongated one and the batter had not become impregnated by the ham—only on one end, which clearly showed itself to my eye by a slight discoloration. Some who were helped got the good part, others the hammy; the first praised it, the last damned and cursed it. The Captain declared it was first rate, so did two or three others and, as it required but a slight circumstance to stir up anger of men who had been at variance, an almost deadly encounter took place; knives were flourished & threats made, but no actual encounter took place. I was a witness of the whole and rather enjoyed the fun as I had no love for either side. The poor cook was the recipient as it was determined he had boiled the pudding & ham in the same pot, but this was deemed impossible as the whole pudding must have been equally affected. I thought the Captain enjoyed this untoward circumstance and was satisfied it was the wish or intention of the few to grumble at the best of things. I afterwards tasted the pudding; a part of it was excellent but the other was execrable and very ham-like. I kept everything to myself and this is the only time I have referred to it.

I said our voyage was prolonged; I think it was nearly 50 days passage. Oh, how my heart leaped for joy as we neared Sandy Hook and entered the Bay with a fair wind. My troubles were soon to end and my separation from this brutal and atrocious set, including Capt, Mates, crew and passengers, was at hand. The moment the Ship was alongside the wharf I made for my dear home. It was late in the afternoon when I rang the bell. My terrier dog, Fury, was lying at my father's feet, was aroused & jumped about in the parlour & the moment the door was opened, he sprang on me barking and yelping for joy. All the family was alive at the uproar and great was my joy exhibited in floods of tears from the whole family. I was a very different looking boy from my appearance when I left a natty sailor boy. My clothes were well tarred and worn, my hands olive brown, and the beauty spots of my cheeks had disappeared for months as I have before related. My father was overjoyed to see me and tears were often suffusing his eyes as he regarded the change that had taken place in my looks. Hard work and bad usage with the example and prevalent ​sociation had shocked him. He had had my letters and seen what I was undergoing, but he thanked God I was back and although outwardly considerably changed, yet he hoped my mind and principles had remained uncontaminated and pure, as I had left him. I had grown considerably and lost all the freshness of an English boy, my rosy cheeks and stout, robust form. I told him I had suffered very much from the brutal conduct and untoward situation I had been placed in, how I had to endure all the low slang and blasfemous speech of everyone, but I assured him I was as correct in principle and feeling as when I left him. It had shown the world to me in a new form and I believed, although it had been a dearly bought experience, it would be of infinite service to me. I had a great deal to tell him which I could not write and felt that dear confidence that he imparted to me and communion of sentiment that only can exist in the love and attachment between a father and his Boy.

The next day I was sent to the tailor's to get equiped, my french suit not suiting my father's taste, and I was soon enjoying myself among my relations and acquaintances. My mind had not settled down, but my father soon became aware that whatever hardships I had experienced, my predilection for a sea life had undergone no change. Yet I did feel great disgust when I looked back on the troubles I had gone through and the low company I was thrown with. One thing gave me a good deal of trouble. I have spoken of the conduct of Capt Graham to me and expressed to my father the detestation I held him in and narrated many acts of his, but my father desired to make him a nice present, or rather that I should, but I would not be brought to it. Finally it was resolved I should give his wife a token through the intercession of my sister and a handsome Pearl broach was purchased and presented to her. This I always have disliked to think of, but it was to please my father & sister that I consented to bestow it on her as a token of respect for the kind treatment of her brutal husband. What induced my father to be so desirous of giving this token I could never well understand, this was soon lost sight of after the token had been accepted; but it has always, I may say, haunted my mind, doing an act which I deemed was not merited & undeserved. I believe it was a wish of my father to prevent any misunderstanding or feeling on the part of Messrs Craigs & Capt Graham and to silence any doubts or reports that had got into circulation respecting his treatment of me—it certainly had that effect as I afterwards understood and the whole dropped into oblivion. I was well satisfied that the reasons for so acting by my father were from some object and what he believed to be right. Had I been a few years older I would never have consented to have made up any threatening misunderstanding in this way. At the same time, I have a high feeling of the action of offering the olive branch as though he were the injured party. I have always been of opinion it was done from a high and praiseworthy motive notwithstanding my disapproval of it which amused my father greatly.

He soon discovered that my predilec[tion] for a Naval life had not ​diminished. Notwithstanding the rough and brutal treatment (I may call it) I had undergone, I have little doubt now that if the treatment I had received had been opposite to what it had been I would have abandoned the idea of following the sea life. I should have seen all its bad features and my tastes were not in unison with it, but pride had a great deal to do with my decision and I chose to continue it, under the promise my father had received that my time would be allowed in the date of my warrant as a midshipman when I received it and I wished to perform the service faithfully in all respects. My father's first care [was] that my time, however short, of going on another voyage, should not be wasted and I at once took a Spanish master and lessons in Mathematics and read various authors which he pointed out. There was a delay in my finding another vessel and the time was well spent in my studies.

Finally, the ship Calpi, Capt Cranston, was selected for me and I joined her quite a proficient and useful youngster, as the Captain wrote my brother he had found me, and very attentive to my duties. In her I sailed on a voyage to Wilmington, N.C., & thence to Europe and the Brazils. We sailed in the month of February and encountered very severe weather. It was 23 days before we reached that port & great anxiety was entertained by my family of our safety. Violent gales had been experienced and the vessel, though stout and strong, was very old. We had a hard time of it, were three times blown off the coast. The ship was a small one of less than 300 tons. There was but one Mate & the Capt kept watch & watch with him. I was in the Capt's watch and his righthand man always having me in charge, young as I was, to look out for the vessel. We had sailed in Ballast (cobble stones) and had no shifting boards to prevent its being displaced in a gale of wind & heavy Sea. The vessel rolled so rapidly and deeply, we shifted our ballast and lay, as it were, on our beam ends. The Capt wore ship & got upon the other tack and then we had a "tea party," as the sailors called it, in the hold, throwing the Cobble stones on the other side until the vessel became upright and safe. The idea of the large quantity of Cobble stones passing to one side of the vessel was new; it occurred a second time, but not to so great a degree. [We] had a very long & tedious voyage. At last we reached the port in safety.

After we reached & entered Cape Fear river by the Old Channel, we proceeded up to just below the new Inlet where we anchored. The vessel could not be got further up, so the Capt determined to take the Yawl Gig at daylight with me and proceed up to Wilmington to report the vessel & attend to his business. He gave me orders to return in the Gig to the Ship. There was a nice breeze and I made rapid way, but it fell calm & having no oars, I was in manner helpless. I drifted onward with the Ebb tide and was eventually being swept out of the New Inlet to sea & in[to] the breakers. I made all the signals I could as I was in sight of the Ship &, fortunately for me, late in the afternoon I was descried and the Jolly boat sent out after me, which was barely in time to rescue me. I had almost given myself up for lost but I was ​taken in tow and got to the Ship safely. The Captain, when he heard of it, blamed himself very much. He said he ought to have known better [than] to have sent me down in the boat without oars & subject to the action of the tide setting out of the New Inlet. The kindness of speech and regrets made me feel grateful as I had then little idea of the danger I had incurred until it was too late to remedy.

[We] had a survey on the vessel repairs ordered; the cargo not ready. When my father heard of these mishaps, he wrote for me to come back by land & sent me money for this purpose. With Captain Cranston 1 had a happy time. He was kind and considerate and took pleasure in giving me all the instruction he could about the Ship and its manners and modes of acting under difficulties. I look back to his teaching with pleasure and gratitude and I was really sorry, when I was recalled home, to leave the Calpi.

I started in a sulky I hired to go as far as Newbern and travelled in company with other gentlemen in the same kind of vehicle. It was a very uninteresting route through the Pine forests and sandy country. At last we reached New Bern and there I took a seat in a miserable vehicle towards Plymouth, which we reached after much delay. Here we hired a boat to cross Albemarle to Edenton, rowed by two negroes, and embarked late in the afternoon with a fair wind & very ragged sail, much too large & no reefs in it. When we reached the middle of Albemarle Sound an ominous thunder cloud appeared in the West & it was quite evident we should be overtaken by a severe Gust rising rapidly. There were three Passengers besides myself and two Negroes. They all became alarmed, and I thought it necessary to assume command of the oyster boat, for it was nothing better, and, as the wind enabled us to lay our course for Edenton, I determined to carry all the sail I could find. The sprit had to be taken down and then the sail knotted for a reef. We sped on rapidly and the crazy boat showed the strains on her for it began to leak badly. We found nothing to bail with but our hats and these were soon put in requisition to keep the water down, for it was evident, if exertion was not made to the best of our power, we should have to reduce all sail & make up our minds to pass the night on the Sound in the open boat. The rain & wind were violent but we managed to hold on & made rapid progress with now and then a fearful launch which almost threw us on our beam ends, but we made the land just as it grew dark and, afterwards, the lights of the City of Edenton and, in due time, about 12, we reached the Wharf. I never saw a more relieved set of passengers, and the negroes equally so, and I was thankful myself to have escaped the night on the sound—if the boat had held together.

The three passengers felt under deep obligation for my exertions and knowledge of the management of the boat, and frankly told me that I had saved their lives. We got supper and went to bed to a sound sleep, having taken our seats in a crazy stage for Suffolk, to reach Norfolk, it being the only road at that time. On arriving at Suffolk we found there some students who were having an uproarious time of ​it—some 10 or 12 and all drunk and doing all sorts of things. They did not impress me favorably and were more allied to being blackguards than gentlemen or, as they styled themselves F.F.V.^[12] Suffolk is 12 miles from Norfolk, which it took us the greater part of the day to reach. From Norfolk it was my intention to take passage up the Bay to Baltimore in one of the Packet sloops. Steam Boats were talked of but none had yet run. The three gentlemen who had travelled with me determined to continue and we remained two or three days at Norfolk waiting for the packet which sailed in by-weekly. It took us 5 days to reach Baltimore, having a large number of passengers, but the weather was pleasant.

On my arrival at Baltimore I found my money exhausted and frankly told my fellow traveller. He at once offered to supply my wants and I took just as much as I thought would carry me home, & gave him an order on my father for the amount.

In two days I reached home, just after dinner time, and was indeed welcomed. They had not heard anything of me for several weeks and it was somewhat of a surprise, altho' I was expected. As I had exhausted all the money I had, I had gone without Breakfast & Dinner, and as my dear father said on seeing me that I was indeed a hungry boy and must be well. I was indeed very happy to get back to home once more. My return home was a happy one and I [have] everything to say about the Capt's kind treatment and the little ship. So different had been my treatment from the last voyage that my father was amused at my fun and descriptions of what I had seen and undergone.

Several of the Gentlemen in Wilmington were very attentive and kind to me, among them Mr Brugiere at whose house I was made at home for the time I staid. This was the first time I had been in the South and the first time I had seen the black race and slaves. My notions of them I can very well remember. They struck me as little removed from beasts of burthen, susceptible of being directed but acting without thought and through compulsion only or fear of punishment. The large gangs working at the wharf loading and unloading vessels were those that I principally saw, except the town labourers and house servants. They were generally badly clothed, indeed most of them scarcely clothed at all and what clothing they had was extremely filthy and their persons uncleanly, and when not employed, lying basking in the sun. The whites who were overseers [were] generally an ill favored set for whom I had imbibed a great dislike from the impressions which had [been given] me by the stories I had read of the cruelties practiced in the slave trade. Towards Evening [from] the floats or scows coming down the river were heard songs, or rather catches of rude music, as they approached the landings. At a great distance the sound was somewhat musical—melancholy, and became harsh on the nearer approach—not the happy strains of even the free savage. These voices have been called melodious, but I could not perceive it. I could not separate them [from] the feeling of their ​condition and it overthrew the impression that it probably ought to have made upon me. It was melancholy, and made, and still has served to keep up, the same feeling whenever I have heard their chantings since, and has made me imbibe a great & lasting impression of the cruelties that the slave trade has furnished.

On Sundays the whole scene at Wilmington seemed changed. Then all the Slaves appeared dressed in their gaudiest colours & decked out in turbans & showy skirts. There was, however, no happy face and I recollect being struck greatly by the gulf which appeared to separate the whites from the blacks. Toward Evg the blacks congregated in large "Meeting Houses" and were most boisterous in the loud screechings and groanings as well as ejaculations of terror and frenzy as the preachers in most violent language denounced them. The services appeared to [be] led by white men but some blacks assumed the platform and the yellings were at times frightful.

I was told it was of the Methodist persuasion which generally made the gathering. No connected discourse was given but the psalm was, or appeared, familiar to the gathered crowd and the shouts almost deaffening. There were but a few whites present and probably from 1,500 to 2,000 blacks, a large proportion of grown men & women. The whole was more like pandemonium than anything that I have referred to. I had an opportunity of visiting several of their meetings but there was little difference in them. The effect was somewhat at times ridiculous. On one occasion the preacher had armed himself with a very large Bandanna handkerchief which was employed with effect in snapping it—a loud and cutting snap of minor thunder consigning all his heavens to perdition and damnation which was followed by low, loud groanings & [illegible] yellings for the Mercy & protection of "de Lord." It appeared to me, so far as I could judge, that little or no attention was being paid by their Masters to religious instruction and that in their gatherings it was too evidently perceptible. There did not appear any religious impression made upon them. Hell and the Brimstone fire was alone held forth and the moderating effect of trust religions had no existence.

I also contrasted them with the Services in the churches where the whites and Masters frequented; there was here great ceremony and a distinction of classes kept up [that] I was unprepared for. The dominant church as far as appearances went was the Episcopal and frequented by the higher class of planters and established families. The congregations were, however, sparse. A few coloured people were present in the seats allotted to them & were the most striking of the congregation, far more so than their Masters & Mistresses, and of that class of orderly and appropriately dressed servants whose manner and conduct was conspiciously respectful, some of them whose heads were quite white & evidently the remains of a former generation. They were of the olden time and retained as members of the family in the household. None of them were free.

There appeared but very little church going in the afternoon, the ​whites of the lower classes wandering about listlessly or lying sleeping in their piazzas or in their halls.^[13]

I shall now return from this digression to my situation on my return. My father wished to still give me all the advantages in his power by a continuation of my studies in the French and Spanish Masters, as well as in Mathematics and in drawing, and in directing my attention to what he deemed would be useful to me in the acquisition of knowledge in the line of life I had chosen. Application continued to be made for my appointment as Midshipman but with little hope of success. Politics had something to do with this; my father and his friends belonged to the federal party and consequently had little influence at Court, so to speak, but the time was passing and I felt somewhat restive of employment. A vessel, ship, called the Emulation, in which some friends of the family were part owners, was fitting out for a voyage and a Captain Destiberdron, who was to command it, was spoken to and agreed to take me with him as third Mate after he had ascertained that I was capable through the letters of my friend Captain Cranston of the Calpi. Thus I was provided with another ship. The Emulation was a fine Ship of upwards of 500 tons. I was enrolled on the Articles and assumed my duties. Capt Parker of Connecticut went as Chief Mate and I was under his direction and [he] proved a very kind friend and good teacher. This gave me a great insight into the manner of stowing cargo, keeping the ship's log book and the receiving of cargo and making out bills of lading, as well as preparing the ship stores and general outfit of a vessel.

I saw little of the Capt Destiberdron, who was a Frenchman of some note and an experienced officer, having served in the French Navy until the War of 1812. Then he took command of a very fine and formidable sloop of war, fitted out from Bordeaux, and was very efficient in making captures as a privateer. She mounted some 16 guns of Brass, which at that time was considered a very formidable cruiser and proved successful in cruising. The war ending, he had been thrown out of employment & was now returning to France in the Emulation as nominal captain. Capt Parker, who was to succeed to the Command on arrival out, did all the duties of the vessel as respects the Sailing and working; Capt Destiberdron, however, gave much of his attention to the Navigation and discipline. I was much struck with the order and harmony that reigned aboard, and altho' I was not able then to know to what to impute it, yet it was too evident to all the crew that good order & discipline was to be observed. There was no harassing of the crew and a willingness to perform the duties required of them and obedience readily shown, yet the crew was composed of the ordinary kind of sailors. Swearing was not permitted and all spirits had been taken from those who had smuggled it on board.

Capt D. was of small stature and was very lame, having become so ​from a severe wound he had received in his hip, yet he moved about with activity and was entirely at home on board ship. He had an intelligent face, sharp and swarthy, and although small [illegible] in looks, his manners were very gentlemanly and address good. He spoke English with fluency and it was difficult to detect any foreign idioms in his speech although the whole exterior of the individual showed he was of foreign birth. He took a great fancy to me and was assiduous in promoting my interest and during his command of the ship I was noticed and instructed by his intelligence and information on Naval matters which have been of infinite use to me in my profession.

My brother Henry, who was thought to be in a decline or bad health & my father wished to give him the benefit of a Sea voyage, took passage in the Emulation and altho' my situation on board did not admit of much intercourse with him, yet it was a great pleasure and comfort to me to have him on board. After a favorable passage, we arrived safely at Havre where the Ship was detained some time. The change of Captains took place and Captain Parker determined he would install me as 2nd Mate in which, altho' no great promotion, I felt great gratification, as much so as any I have ever experienced in the Navy.

While the Ship was in Port we had considerable difficulty with the Custom House officers occurring from the fact of one of the passengers having a large quantity of Segars [cigars] which had not been entered and of which the authorities had obtained information. It was only discovered that such was the case a day before the search was made. Captn Parker informed me of it and said they must not be found on board for the ship would probably be condemned or heavily fined, and he trusted to me to have them concealed. I felt very adverse to having anything to do with the business, but became satisfied that there was no blame to be attached to him. There was a large number of these segars stowed away in one of the passengers' rooms. There was no time to be lost. As the ship was in Dock, they could not be thrown overboard, and there was no way to hide them. I was put to my wit's end. An empty demijohn was nearby and suggested to me the idea that it might be filled and would well conceal them; accordingly I took charge of them and disposed of them in this manner. I was aware it was running a great risk but as there was nothing else to be done, it had to be resorted to; and, As we had a number of them empty from the storeroom, they were brought into the Steerage and filled with paper and clothes, to prevent them from being shaken out. The first and nearest at hand was left not quite empty, a few glasses in it; and the others so disposed as not to excite suspicion.

I well recollect the approach of the officers and the apparent avidity with which they came on board. I affected quiet and, at the same time, great nonchalance. Speaking French, I was able to understand their consultation and after some ceremony of exhibiting their papers to me, I was directed to give up the Keys and open the hatches. In port (docks) there is no fire permitted on board vessels. The crews are either boarded ashore or hire a cook-house, although they do duty ​and sleep on board. This was the case with our crew and just at the time of the visit they had all gone to their dinner. Everything was opened, the caps of the blinds and the sliding doors removed and a thorough search instituted. A few cigars were found in the passengers' berth which had been dropped and gave great hopes of success. They redoubled their efforts, but these were all. The demijohns were turned aside and over, but only one or two showed any signs of Eau de Vin, which, the moment I saw, I was ready to get glasses & fill as far as it went. This was pronounced excellent and I adroitly apologized that I regret there was not more of it. I can scarcely recall the situation I was in without thinking of the game of "hot butter, blue beans" and as the Searchers peered into everything they were either very cold and, at times, very hot. After an hour they became satisfied they could find nothing and then I underwent an examination, a variety of questions being put to me, some of which I could not understand, intentionally, and others I answered as a boy would naturally do when engaged in playing a trick. Finally they all took their departure and I felt greatly relieved for my conscience was greatly opposed to the deception practiced, if such it was. The Consignees were anxious to reward me but I refused accepting of anything & frankly told them I could not be induced to go through the like again for love or money. The Ship had been saved from confiscation.

After this I obtained leave & passed a fortnight with my brother in Paris and had a charming time of it. He went to join my uncle & aunt & made the tour of Europe. I saw many of my former friends who were equally kind to me, but I avoided any idea of visiting royalty. When I returned to Havre I went again to my duties with a very different feeling from that which I had experienced in the Hibernia. All the crew welcomed my return as well as the Capt and Mate and I found my situation pleasant. In due time we obtained our Cargo and prepared for our departure or return to New York. At Havre I had made many acquaintances through my cousin, who was there in a counting house, among nearby English families and the time passed very agreeably.

Our voyage home was a very lengthened one of 81 days—having encountered a series of heavy gales and lost some of our spars and sails. The outer sheathing of our stern had, among other things, been washed off on which was the name of the Emulation, and was, unfortunately, picked up by another vessel which arrived before us and reported it. This naturally created a great deal of anxiety on the part of my family and friends, but in a few days the Emulation was reported below, which relieved them & perhaps made my welcome back more joyous and happy and although they had given the ship up yet it relieved the intense feeling of anxiety my dearest father had undergone. This was the last voyage I made in the merchant service. ​ ​

A few weeks afterwards we heard that I should shortly receive my appointment in the Navy as Midshipman, procured through the instrumentality of my father's and uncle's friend, Mons. Hyde de Neuville, the French Minister at Washington who I understood had made it a personal request as a favor to himself. Just previous I think my spirits were rather dashed by letters from Fennimore Cooper, Esq who had interested himself greatly in my behalf, [saying] that "there was no more likelihood of my being appointed than the heavens should fall to catch larks." I was with my father's friend, Mr John Garnett, staying at New Brunswick when the warrant arrived, and was taken by him to the Chief Justice of New Jersey, Mr [Theodore] Frelinghuysen, to take the oath of fidelity to my country [8 January 1818]. Shortly after, my father wrote me that he wished me to go to Washington and thank the french Minister for his exertions in obtaining it, desiring me to equip myself in uniform and to get me a handsome hanger for side arms and sent me several letters to his friends, thinking I ought to become acquainted with the Secretary and officers of the Navy at headquarters, as he looked upon it as essential that they should see me. I accordingly went on and paid Washington my first visit.

Madame de Hyde [de Neuville], when I called upon them insisted that I should come & stay with them, and so I did, and through her and the Minister I was introduced to all the great folks at that time and the Minister carried me to the President's, Mr Monroe at that time. I had a pleasant time but I soon tired of it and, after a week's stay, left. Stopping at Baltimore and Philadelphia, I returned to Mr Garnett's at New Brunswick. The day after my arrival news came of the dangerous illness of my father, and that I should return home as soon as possible. I returned home on the afternoon of Feby 2nd about an hour after my dear father had breathed his last. I never saw him after I entered the Navy. I was so disappointed and overwhelmed that I had not reached home before; he had so often expressed a wish to see me before he died.

I shall not attempt to describe the feelings I experienced in the loss I had met with and the desolation which home seemed to have undergone. I had left him but a few weeks before in perfect health and joyous spirits after a small party of friends had left in the Evg. I was ​to start early the following morning. He then seemed sad and gave me manly advice as to my future and talked with me in the fullest confidence of my future prospects and career in the Navy, the maintenance of the highest principles of honor and respect for rank, &c, &c, which I must ever hold in view. These have been remembered and cherished as his last words and thoughts.

In a few weeks after my father's death I received my first orders to report to Comdre [William] Bainbridge to the Independence, 74 guns, in Boston Harbor, & having completed my outfit, I set off to join the ship and reported to Comdr Bainbridge who received me with great kindness and gave me orders to report to Capt [William B.] Finch,^[14] then in Command of the Ship. There were 54 midshipmen attached to the Ship & attendant on the school then held on board. The ship was in winter quarters, lying in the stream off Long Wharf, dismantled. It was a new experience for me and one which few can understand unless they have but just joined the Navy. I was not a greenhorn and probably, at that time, a better sailor than any one of the mids on board but, of course, I knew little about the etiquette of the Naval service. Of the number of Midsn there were many of what was then termed the war midshipmen, of advanced age and whose habits were by no means correct.

I was extremely fortunate in joining or being assigned to one of the best messes in the Steerage of which there [were] five; several of the noted old Mids, among whom were Jack Palmer, Peleck [Peleg K.] Dunham, [Henry] Dyson, [William] Walker, [Stephen] Wilson, [John] Bubier, [William] Rice, and [George] Izard besides others whose dissipated habits soon marked them out as those to be avoided by me. The first few days were indeed those which long remained impressed upon me, and gave me time to understand something of the fellows I was thrown among. The appearance of the conduct of the difference of the messes was very striking; Palmer's mess, of which he was caterer, was the most remarkable. They had little mess furniture, a few broken cups, Plates & dishes and less to provide, living principally upon Ship's provisions; a whiskey jug the most prominent article of the mess, and was usually replenished at the Spirit room when the noon grog was served to the crew, at which time Walker was the officer in charge.

Several young officers joined the ship at the same time I did and among them my friend [George] Blake, who was assigned to Palmer's mess, and at the first meal he was presented with a quadrant case for a soup plate, bean soup being the ration for that day. This caused a great deal of merriment and what was calculated to add to it, he was required to pay his entrance fee to the mess for his share of the crockery, a sum of $25. He bore it with great good humor and enjoyed the joke.

​Those who knew Jack Palmer will readily bring him to their mind and his peculiar manner. Jack was of short stature, small and very ugly, with an expressive face but exceedingly marked with smallpox, his features small and his complexion red and in after life was rubicund, but he had the gift of gab and ready at speech and with a large share of drollery, bordering on a low wit. His address of welcome to Blake was truly characteristic of him, assuming great pomposity and a high tone of the advantages that would attend his association with Mess No. 1, its luxurious living and good fellowship, and that he was directed by his messmates to extend to him the warmest welcome in joining the Navy & particularly in his being invited to the hospitality and good cheer of the mess. Blake was the first to be served with a tin cup of whiskey, poured from the Jug by Palmer, and invited to partake of one of the necessaries of life, "elixir," I think he termed it, and then his health was drunk by these topers in raw Rye, just from the Spirit Room. It was a hilarious scene for a stranger and was truly the type of similar scenes I had seen described in Roderick Random.^[15]

The mess I joined as I said before, was composed of the best of the young officers, and everything was provided and decorum reigned throughout. They were all very kind and civil to me and from our first associations friendships grew and which remained for many years, until they left the service, either from death or resignation.

The character of the steerage officers in the Service has so much changed since that it is almost impossible to realize their great improvement. There are no longer any Midshipmen of those days. Many of them were war midshipmen of very dissipated habits and of low morale and the collisions with those who had recently entered were constant. Duels were the order of the day and few days elapsed when a meeting did not take place. Indeed there was little or no restraint on the Mids, and confined as they were to the Ship and the quarters of the Mids in the orlop deck, living in candlelight, did not tend to improve the temper or preserve the peace. The Steerage of a Man of War was then considered as exclusively appertaining to the Mids. 1st Lieutenants troubled themselves little with the noise and amusements of these quarters and they felt jealous of any infringements on their rights. On the upper deck strict discipline and great respect was demanded and observed, and punishment often inflicted by quarantining, and double watch or extra duty, liberty of going ashore was much restricted, once in 10 days or a fortnight.

The school was kept in the Comdre's Cabin by Chaplain Cheever [Felch], who made his daily reports to the Comdre in writing and sent to his office on Long Wharf. The Comdre resided at Jamaica, some 8 miles from Boston, & usually made his appearance at the office about 9 or 10 o'clock and probably once a week his visit to inspect the ship. Comdre Bainbridge was of full height and good figure and always kept ​

​the bearing of a high officer. He was proud and, I may say, austere but of a very kind heart and hospitable disposition and felt great pride in the Navy & the rearing of the young officers under him. He was very decided in his prejudices; while he encouraged those of whose characters he entertained a high opinion, he was a bitter enemy to the low and vulgar, and no officer could, if he lost his good opinion, expect to regain it. His presence was commanding and when in full uniform he gave as well as commanded respect. His head was square, full face and florid complexion, very irritable and fierce in his manner for the moment, but that soon passed over & he endeavored to make some amends when he had on reflection wrongfully assailed a young officer. He liked to see spirit in any officer and was always ready to side with him and excuse any difficulty which had been reported to him. He was over fifty years when I was under his command, and he had many peculiarities, one in particular on becoming excited as "Unto, unto, unto, leave me" or "my cabin." It was well understood by the Mids, and if anything was to be offered in explanation or excuse, then was not the time to make it.

I had (I suppose I may call it good fortune) to have been reported to him by Mr Cheever, the Chaplain and schoolmaster, as well grounded in Mathematics and versed in the problems of navigation; a like good report of my being a good sailor &, with care, would make a first class officer. This brought his attention more towards Me as I afterwards learnt there was scarcely a day when the names of the Young officers were brought before him that he did not ask about "Young Wilkes." The Comdre had great vanity and pride and was extremely particular in all & everything to have proper etiquette duly observed. He had a very small and well-shaped foot and was especially proud of it; I never saw him in soiled boots and even in his slippers it was apparent. When displeased & angry he had a forbidden black look, a countenance on which a smile of good humour could not last or occupy and his favorite utterance broke forth in tones of great harshness.

I once made an application to him at his office to be transferred from the Independence to the Guerrier [Guerriere] frigate, then fitting out. He was standing at his desk, inspecting a large book of ledger size, heard my request apparently in good part, took up the book, turning his face towards me, black & forbidding, and said passionately, "Unto, unto, sir, quit my office!" I turned & left without looking behind me, but I felt as if the Book was following me. In the subsequent part of the day I came upon him accidently in one of the Courts or narrow Streets of Boston, when he called me and asked me in a very kind Manner if I would take a glass of soda water which he was just going to do. I walked in and drank my glass, he desired me to wait, took a rough sheet of paper from the counter & with Pen and Ink gave Me orders to report to Comr M'Donough [Thomas Macdonough] for duty on board the Guerrier, handed it to me, & wished me well & left. In a few days after, I received a written invitation to dine at Jamaica Plains but I was not able to do so, but called to pay ​my respects & bid him goodby. All the young officers stood in great fear of him; I certainly felt awe in his presence when on duty, but he had a happy way of making a young officer reconciled and treating him which made its impression. It was his habit to have some of his officers to dine with him once a fortnight and generally selected them by rotation. I dined with him in order & was very much amused to hear him say he preferred having a Midshipman of his Ship to dine than the highest dignitaries of Massachusetts, and to give them his best wine.

I desired to make application for a few days' leave to go to New York. Required to sign some papers, and as Midn Stephen Wilson was also an applicant and had made request for leave, we obtained leave to go and see the Comdre at Jamaica Plains. We hired a chaise & horse & drove out. It was after a hard rain & the roads were muddy. Wilson, who was an old Mid, said we had better "belay" the horse to the fence within a quarter of a mile, & walked to the house. The Comdre received us very politely but remarked to Wilson that the roads could not be very muddy as our boots were quite clean and we must have picked our way very carefully. This was addressed to Wilson who was much confused, and having somewhat of an impediment in his speech, and being so when he was confused, hesitated and I plainly saw that the Comdre was quite aware of the trick, if such it was, but as he had no ostler, and it would give them trouble, it was passed by. He granted our request of leave for a few days. Though he restricted Wilson, he gave me a few days of grace as he said I had just entered the Service. On leaving the Comdre we proceeded joyfully to look for our chaise and just in time to arrest the horse who had slipped his head stall & bridle & was free to depart or run away & dash the whole concern in pieces. I felt greatly ashamed of this ruse and felt it was so unlike officers to have gone apparently under false pretenses that Wilson and I were never upon a footing afterwards altho' ship and mess mates for over two years.

Fortunately we got the horse bridled again, the chaise turned around and rode back to Boston without incident. Wilson considered me too squeamish for a Midshipman but I could not reconcile myself to the deceit he had advised and we practiced. It grew out of the fear which he entertained of the Comdre, and believed if we had driven up to the house in a chaise nothing would have induced him to see us or give us the leave desired, but we received it and blessed our stars that no accident had taken place. The general feeling among the Mids was that the Comdre was exceedingly strict and harsh in his treatment of us, but I differed from them and saw a paternal care of his young officers and a scrutiny in his conduct that was constantly awake to the interests of the Service and to their welfare.

There were many bad fellows among the 54, of the older ones particularly, and those presumed greatly upon us who had just entered the Service. To give us exercise and keep us employed, on the ship's being rigged, the Mizzen Mast, its rigging and sails were assigned to ​the mids with a few Mizzentopmen to assist. We were divided into watches, but it was of short duration, for the older Mids desired to put the work on the youngsters who came to the resolution to rebel, and absented themselves in a body in sending aloft yards. In the morning it so happened that the Comdre was eyeing the ship from his office window and [saw] that the yards were hanging aloft and no one to receive them. Lieut Salter had the deck and when the fore & Main were ready to cross, he looked up at the mizzen and found no one there. His temper rose and he made a fool of himself, throwing his trumpet down and swearing, calling for the Mizzentopmen. The yards were soon crossed but the quartermaster, who was on the lookout, reported the Comdre's signal for his boat. All the Mids were suspended at once and sent below except two or three, among whom I happened to be, to do the duty. Salter & the Mids were at issue and the Comdre had seen the strike and it was evidently his intention to see into it. A great stir took place on board, or what is called a row. There was, of course, great discussion among the Mids; the youngsters were in high glee at the row and nicknamed Lt Salter "Fantods," by which cognomen he was known ever afterwards in the Navy.

The Comdre was not long in making his visit and, as was usual, he required all the officers to receive him, always giving time by pulling in his smile as his splendid boat was called around the ship before he came alongside. Of course, the Mids being all suspended, there were none on deck to receive him and only the guard of the marines. I shall never forget his appearance on the occasion. Mr Salter or Fantods had been relieved and such a black look as the Comdre showed was enough to scare anyone. "Unto, Unto, Sir, what is the meaning of this?" After a few words with Mr [Robert] Rose, our 1st Lt, when the Comdre descended into his cabin and shortly after, all the Mids were summoned, their story patiently heard through the older ones, who were especially appealed to. It appeared that due notice had not been given them, and that from the want of organization the duty assigned was devolved upon but a few and those mostly the youngest, who had respectfully remonstrated before. The Comdre was evidently in their favour, though he did not relax his black look but immediately said, "Unto, unto, Gentlemen, leave my cabin." There was a rush out and some uprising.

Then the 1st Lieut and Fantods were sent for and got their share fully, when orders were given for the Mids to go to duty. It seemed that the orders for the exercise of the Mids had not emanated from the Comdre, and as he considered it interferred with the schools, it was countermanded and the Mizzentopmen ordered to do the duty. If it was necessary to exercise the Mids in this way, a day to be set apart for it, and light sails were ordered to be used instead of the heavy ones which they could not handle. As the Comdre was leaving the ship when we were all present, he turned and said to his Young Gentlemen how much he was pleased with their appearance and hoped there would be no more refusal on their parts to carry out orders, and left ​the ship. This was deemed by the Mids a triumph but they soon found that the Lieutenants were for giving them all sorts of trials and annoyances by orders and requirements of their service, watch and watch instead of three as had been the case, Liberty withheld and many other minor punishments inflicted, But these were put a stop to by the orders from the Comdre as soon as he became aware of them. And several officers were detached and peace finally restored between the Wardroom & steerage, I believe through the instrumentality of our Chaplain, Cheever Felch, who almost always sided with the Mids.

One of the most notable friends of the Mids was a strange dog of large size who had been left on board by Mid Higgenbotham who was named Cheever. He was one of the most intelligent of the Canine species and as ugly as a dog could well be. But he was greatly beloved and returned it most fully, was the Mids' friend and served to protect the steerage and all belonging to it and would permit no one except the boys belonging to the mess to enter the apartment. If he discovered anyone that did not belong to the steerage, he would instantly pen them up and with fierce growls and barks bring someone to his aid & have him arrested. Cheever knew well his position, was as regular in his attendance at his quarters as anyone, was regularly washed & had his rations. To him we were all very attached, altho' many endeavours had been made to get him out, sufficient influence was found to keep him on board. He was in truth the guardian of the Steerage & prevented all theft or the advent of any interloping. He was not a dog to be petted but seemed to have great powers of discrimination. He was a great amusement to us all and probably received more attention than anyone on board. His freaks and frolics were a constant source of amusement to all parties.

The Navy, at the time I am writing of, was in a peculiar and anomalous condition; no school could have been worse for the morals and none so corruptly and so very viciously constituted. It was but a few years after the War of 1812. The older Mids, or rather Master's Mates, were entirely wanting in principles, had all the rude manners of their class and ignorant. The Younger ones were just entered, many of them just from College or school of higher character, gentlemen's sons & of high tone & honorable principles. The two naturally clashed & being brought into contact as they were daily, quarrels ensued and duels fought more or less seriously. I think the class of Lieuts who were attached to the ships and in service then were greatly to blame. [They] fostered and fomented difficulties between the young officers, many of them had their favorites and had opportunities of estranging them from each other.

A new era was dawning upon the Navy. Many of the best families were seeking situations for their sons and it was no longer the belief if a young and uncontrollable boy could be done or was fit for anything else, the Navy was the place for him—black odious and disreputable conduct was at an end and a high tone of feeling was making itself felt among the youngsters who were seeking it. The pride of the Country was looking to the Navy as a place for distinction & good ​morals and correct deportment considered as the essential to its officers as well as education. The Navy had fought itself by its gallant spirit and forced itself upon the consideration of the citizens. Applications were very numerous and those having the most influence obtained situations. Examinations were established and those who failed to pass them were rejected, but these were but seldom made with discrimination, yet they served in a manner to turn out those who were a disgrace & unqualified for the service. The superior officers who stood highest for gallant[ry] and bravery did their best to weed out the unworthy. Most of these were highminded gentlemen; but a few of them had obtained the requisite education of accomplished officers. They were desirous, however, of promoting efficiency in the Navy & felt the force of the influence which the parents of the young officers exerted in the Government, and saw the better class of the appointees and gave them more attention.

A midshipman's life on board a American Man of war was a dog's life, and in many respects acts of tyranny and a total disregard to the feelings of the young officers were lost sight of. Some of the older officers ruled through intimidation and coertion by punishment—totally inconsistent with the rules and regulations of any service. The Midshipmen were placed under the fostering care of the commanders and were treated with parental hardship. Captains thought that they were above the law and no regulations bound them to observe a proper regard for the feelings and sensibilities. The Commander was supreme over all. The men were harshly treated, nay, often cruelly, and all were made subservient to the pleasures, caprices and gratifications of this irresponsible authority. Debauchery and the drunkenness in a Commander was the order of the day & when in port convivialities turned to drunken frolics. These were above & held themselves above the law until many who had served as Midn gained promotion & who had experienced the effects of these tyrannies. Protests from them drew, finally, the attention of the Dept and Government to the condition of the Service, and brought about a change, though slowly, in the condition of the officers and also the men. Peculation has been put a stop to in the Purser's department & vast fortunes are no longer made out of the services of poor Jack in a single cruise.

Speaking of abuses, there was none more unjust and vicious than that of promotion; officers were advanced on the sole recommendation of Commanders entirely unfit for promotion, both as regards capacity, morals, and often thoroughly abandoned to vicious habits and drunkenness. The examinations in some degree put a barrier to this practice, altho' the Boards of Officers often passed individuals, favorites totally unfit for the higher grades, and this favoritism has ever since clogged the Service and been an incubus to it. The Naval School [Annapolis] has done much for the habits of the officers; they receive the best advantages for an education and obtain a proficiency in the profession, but are sadly deficient in making sailors of them, and acquiring the routine of the Navy.

​The former class of Midshipmen no longer exist; the present ones have little or no knowledge of a sailor's character & of the true discipline of a Man of war. Indeed this can only be learnt by acquiring their peculiar habits, when brought into contact with them as part of the crews; the duties of a Man of war require the aid of this class of officers to preserve a proper discipline and the mixing up with them through familiar intercourse. This is no longer the case. The Mids are now changed to cadets and everything gives place to studies and drill—not that I find fault with the system of education, on the contrary, I highly approve of it. Yet it would be desirable, in their novitiate, to give them their instruction in performing duties on board. Many enter the Academy who are totally unfitted for a sea life and would retire from the service after a first cruize, while those who had the necessary partiality and ambition would survive the trial and begin a course of study which would at once secure the application of all that which they had acquired.

When I joined the Navy the Southern element greatly predominated, from Virginia South, particularly that State and South Carolina, some from Maryland and a few from Georgia. The North and West were but slimly represented, and cliques were formed which ignored the young officers from other States. It was laughable to see the manoeuvres which were resorted to; the messes were divided, the Southerners forming one and the Northern and Western appointees the others. Aristocratic feeling and gentility were assumed on the part of the first and plebian was designated as the other. If misunderstanding ensued between the parties, they were almost always arranged in like order. There was perhaps more refinement or education in the former, but for the sturdy making of officers and the performance of duties, the North, East & West were much superior. All the fancy situations, such as aides &c, were selected from the South but this was a great disadvantage to them, for it threw them out of what may be called the rough and tumble of the Service and they could not contend with the hardy constitutions and common sense, as well as correct deportment, that did the duties. The appearance of the officers was decidedly in favor of those from the South, but, on aquaintance, the sterling traits of those from a more Northern section soon showed themselves.

This Southern Click continued until the rebellion broke out, with Norfolk as its headquarters, and the true metal of the North and its thorough steadfastness of the Govt and flag was soon evident. There were but a few of the Southern officers who loved the Govt as much as the States they came from, and without any reason went to join in the rebellion against the flag which they had sworn to honor, uphold and maintain. With the Southern Country they have been crushed and will regret the course they took as long as they live. As for myself, coming as I did from New York or a middle state, I determined to avoid any alliance with either side and, with a few others, maintained an independence of action and opinions.

Officers are soon discovered as to their metal and principles and will ​generally be tried before they are many days on board. I joined the Independence without knowing a soul on board, was, as I have before said, fortunate in joining the best mess. But I had not been four days on board before I was involved in a difficulty with an officer from Virginia, one of the Randolphs (T.M.), and before I had, in fact, become acquainted with anyone; but I had joined the service with a resolution of not permitting myself to be "run upon"— or any affront or insult permitted to be passed over without due notice. The affront came unexpectedly and undeserved and I made up my mind to require from Randolph an apology for his rudely closing the door in my face. I at once determined not to let it pass, but to resent it without breaking the rules of the Service was my first care. He saw by my manner that he had given me an offense and would be called upon to atone for it. As I had been but a few days aboard I was assigned my duty in Watch and at Quarters and waited until I understood Randolph was to go on shore. I then asked permission of absence and I received it. My manner in the meantime had been such as to assure him I was very much affronted; he saw & felt it as he afterwards told me. I went on shore and entering the Hotel (the old Exchange) at Boston, I saw him at a distance and went towards him to require his necessary explanation & apology. He advanced to me and before I could give utterance, he very nobly apologized for his rudeness, that it was entirely a mistake, and he had felt utterly ashamed of his conduct ever since, and requested I would think no more of it. This was enough for myself but it had been done before others in the Steerage, & I required him to state that he had apologized for it. This he did very openly and frankly before the mess and I was well satisfied; the affair passed and was forgotten.

Randolph and myself became intimate friends, made a cruise together as messmates in the Guerrier frigate, and were much together. He was a frank, noble fellow, quick and impulsive and was frequently in difficulties with others, and I was always appealed to as his friend and the difficulties he was ever ready to make amends for, if I thought he was in the wrong, & to make a suitable apology. Our intimacy was great, and we rarely took amusement on shore but we shared it together. He left the Service & married, but I believe rather unfortunately for he became much straightened in his circumstances and unfitted for a planter's life, which he attempted to follow. I never have had a more intimate friend in the service, or one to whom I felt greater attachment, whose principles I thought more highly of. He had the high chivalry which the Virginians generally possessed and, if he had continued in the Navy, would have made a highly esteemed officer.

There were many duties connected with the life of a Midshipman at that time which have since been happily done away with. I have reference to the police duties, or the recovery of deserters from the shore. The sailors were much addicted to desertion from the Boats on shore and shore parties and at times from the ship, escaping on the ice which surrounded her and went off for a frolic ashore. There were several Houses in Alleys at Boston which they frequented where dancing and ​frolic was nightly carried on. One of these was known by the name of Tin Pot, and there they were often found among a vast crowd of sailors and their sweethearts. This service was usually entrusted to an older Midshipman or Master's Mates and others were detailed with him as assistants. It was often a very hazardous undertaking and on one of many occasions I was an assistant. We usually disguised ourselves in citizens' clothes and to avoid being seen. The police was of no effect in making these arrests.

On the occasion which made the most indelible impression on me, Mid Cutts^[16], a large and stout-framed officer, had charge of the party. We approached Tin Pot with feelings of apprehension, but, having reconnoitered, we ascertained that Six or Eight Men were in the dance hall, and, on consultation, it was settled that the attempt to capture them should be made. We accordingly mounted the stairs which led to a second story from this dark and confined alley. The whole floor was occupied when we made our appearance, and as by magic the music stopped and all was ominously quiet. Our men were there and some confusion ensued, but we boldly singled them out and bore them off in triumph. It was indeed a brazen step, and we owed our success to the favor that Cutts had showed to one or two of the girls when they made a visit to the Independence, who had apparently the control of the assemblage. We were indeed lucky fellows to escape as we did; the police would have been thrown out of the Windows and otherwise maltreated. We were rejoiced when we reached the Street through the alley and placed our Men in carriages which stood nearby waiting and drove to Long Wharf. I think this was among the last of these duties being assigned him; a fracas had been brought about in one of these raids and parties much hurt, which put a stop to the practice. It required great nerve and decision of character, which Mid Cutts possessed in no small degree. The astonishment created by our appearance so early in the Evg gave us an advantage, and the quick action and promptitude of its execution, with the kind will of some of the Girls, alone carried us successfully through. ​

Pursuance to the orders of Comdre Bainbridge, I reported to Capn McDonough for duty on board the Guerrier. My friend Randolph, W. S. Walker, W[illiam] S. Harris, & Stephen B. Wilson were likewise ordered to report, & as the Steerage was full, we were assigned the Cockpit for our mess, which was on the deck below the Steerage. It was but 4½ feet high between decks, and as we were all of almost grown size, rather an inconvenient one; but as to space, we had plenty of room. We had all come from the Independence and were much pleased to get to sea, bound on a cruize to Russia & the Mediterranean.

The accomodations were rather unfavorably looked upon. Wilson (S.B.) was one of the oldest Mids attached to the Ship, then came Walker, with, then Randolph, Harris and myself, five, and therefore for rights we had the oldest, and our mess soon acquired its influence on board. We made a nice outfit of crockery & mess things, secured a good cook and steerage Boys to wait upon us & made ourselves comfortable, and were content with the change and happy in our quarters as they were roomy though wanting in height. The Steerage being overcrowded, with 12 or 14 in a Mess on each side, the Southern mess or aristocrats on the Starboard while the Plebians or Northerners were on the Larboard side. We came to the resolution of maintaining our Neutrality, Wilson & myself from New York, Walker from New Hampshire, Harris from Kentucky and Randolph from Virginia. I think we arrogated to ourselves the positions after the Wardroom officers, the Cockpit usually belonging to the Surgeon and his mates. Our outfit was greatly in excess of what steerage officers usually possessed; the purser was kind enough to advance us the mess money to provide suitably. My service in the Merchant vessels had given me some experience & I was determined we should have plenty to eat and a table set which combined usefulness with cleanliness and gentility. In this my messmates went hand in hand, and caused us to become the No 1 mess of the Steerage officers. And we enjoyed our seclusion from the uproar and ceaseless stir in the Steerage proper, and, being well known to each other, we agreed and good humor prevailed throughout our intercourse.

I wish I could say as much for the two steerage messes. Arguments, wrangling and disorder was continual; selfishness and bad temper with ​continual running of the youngsters, no order in the messes, sometimes no food & then a crash and the loss of Cups, Saucers, plates & pitchers, some laughing, others bemoaning, all disjointed & out of humour. Indeed, it was no wonder a mid's life is none of the sweetest, particularly from the variety of dispositions which are brought together, and the freedom of the Mid's apartment to wrangle and grumble is held to be inviolate. When too boisterous, a message from the 1st Lieut, requesting the young gentlemen to make less noise, for a moment allays the skylarking or other boisterous feats to be again after a few minutes renewed. The rights of the steerage are inviolable and in all steerages are observed pertinaciously. There were many differences and difficulties, but upon the whole the Mids with a few exceptions were highly respected, and under our worthy & gallant Captn treated with attention & great kindness and showing an example which none could mistake or avoid.

The Guerrier was preparing to take out Mr G. W. Campbell and family to Russia consisting of his wife & several children and nurses. There is nothing that is more to be reprehended than sending a minister aboard a Man of War. The fact of passengers on board a Man of War is always detrimental to the Service & expensive to the Govt and totally inconsistent with the duties which ought to be assigned the vessels and officers. Every department of the Service feels it more or less, and accommodations are assigned to the accommodation which in right belong to the Comdr and causes him great expense as well as inconvenience & almost always bring him in collision with the Minister. The difficulty of supplying stores and their kind and quantity is a constant source of complaint, and the Diplomats are not willing to pay. Capn Macdonough, with all the high toned feeling of an officer & gentleman, was desired by the Minister to furnish the stores necessary. Everything was provided of the very best, and even the children were not forgotten, but amply supplied with confectionery, &c. To this, at the start of the voyage, Mr Campbell objected & refused to pay or disputed the account. It terminated in his being obliged to conform to the customs of the Navy in such cases and to pay his share, and Captn MacDonough was obliged to pay a proportion; when it is well known what the pay of the Navy was then, it was a very onerous debt. Mr Campbell fell into disgrace with the officers & suffered greatly in character. He was an incumbrance on board and no sort of pleasure to any one.

But Mr Campbell was not the only diplomat we had on board. The well known Silas E. Burrows was also a passenger on his way to Sweden, as Bearer of dispatches I believe. He messed economically in the wardroom, had his Claret and crackers and the good things of the wardroom table, but declined paying any or the amount of his mess bill. He got the reputation of being a mean White Man & once he left us at Copenhagen, invited the officers on shore before we sailed & gave them a pint of Wine! Thence his name of a Mean White Man—from the experience of the officers he was a great bore to them, crowded as their quarters ​were, and a happy riddance they considered it when he was landed at Copenhagen on his way to Stockholm.

What contributed to this was his behavior in the boat with Midn Ellery, who was sent with him to the opposite shore of the Strait on the Sweden side to see if he could get facilities of getting to Stockholm. The boat left on a fine morning and crossed the Strait to the Swedish shore, Mr Burrows taking passage in her. He did not meet with success. Before leaving he purchased a dozen duck and fowls as presents for the Wardroom mess. It came on to blow heavily with a rough sea, the boat made much water and Burrows became frightened. He begged and entreated Ellery to take in sail, offered him a pair of ducks & chickens, finally went down on his knees & would give him all the ducks & chickens. Ellery was somewhat eccentric in character—what was the use of his poultry to him when they might all be drowned in a few Minutes, & continued to carry sail. Finally they reached the ship just before dark, and the diplomat blessed his stars for his safety. The ducks and chickens had all been drowned, and it was with great difficulty the boat could be kept free by bailing with the men's hats. Ellery's relation of the trip served to give the Steerage a hearty laugh, and poor Burrows was considerably chopfallen. His conduct did not tend to raise him in the estimation of the officers.

The Guerrier was one of our finest frigates and of the largest class. We left Boston well stocked with provisions and much extra lumber incident to the passengers on board. It is usually thought that a large frigate has much room to spare, but with her complement of officers and men such is not the case, and for an effective Man of War it is necessary that every thing should have its place and be in place; judging by this rule, the Guerrier was very defective in all parts, and with a new crew very defective in order to discipline. To be sure it was a time of peace, but there is no telling when her service may be required for the country to maintain the honor of its flag.

We had a pleasant passage across the atlantic and were to stop at Cowes in the Isle of White [Wight]. Previous to our arrival & when in the Chops of the English Channel, we encountered several Men of War cruizing. It is the regulation of the Service that, on any Man of War coming in gun shot, the crew should go to quarters until it became established that she was of a friendly power. During the night about 11 o'clock we fell in with two Men of War and beat to quarters. The utmost confusion resulted; there was nothing prepared and scarcely any one knew his position. We had never been to quarters at night before, and, unprepared for such operations, confusion everywhere and nothing prepared or in its place. No lights in the battle lanterns, no tubs & casks for the gunners, and the gratings & powder boxes, match tubs, shot racks & the extra articles required were no where to be found. It was upwards of five minutes before the divisions were reported. I could not help admiring the coolness of Comdr McDonough on the occasion. The ships, two large frigates, passed within hailing distance of us. We pursued Our course, the breeze was light and the sea ​smooth. Apparently no notice was taken [of] us, but when the dawn came, flags were shown and thus we parted company. The only audible words which came from Comdr McDonough were "by zounds" (a favorite expression of his) "this must not happen again. We must be prepared for such events." Orders followed that on the discovery of any vessel at night the drum was to be beat to quarters, and for the following six months we seldom passed a night without going to Quarters, and sometimes twice. With this practice, we became very alert and the divisions were reported in time to satisfy our commander. Not infrequently, from the 1st tap of the Drum to the retreat, the Ship was prepared and all ready for action in 50 seconds, but still it kept up and the Mids, who had to lash up their Hammocks and get them on deck to stow, were a great deal annoyed and provoked. Some resorted to rolling them up and stowing them in their lockers, and others refused to occupy them. It was a great hardship for both men and officers, and, as we thought continued too long, more allied to a punishment on the crew & ourselves for no fault on our part than for any carrying but the regulations. I think, however, the Lieutenants, deck officers, frequently used this means of annoying the Commander under his general order, & obstinacy on his part, refused to rescind or limit it.

At Cowes the Ship was much frequented by officers & men who seemed desirous of gratifying their curiosity by inspecting the American frigate who had celebrated the Naval victories over them. The Guerrier, though by no means a Model ship, was equipped well for a fighting one and as such did credit to our country. Lieut Joseph Smith (now Admiral) was our first Lieut. He was very youthful looking, beardless, though in person & dress showed more years. His character was that of a good Seaman, but had no reputation as an officer or disciplinarian, and was believed to be able to handle the ship in proper style. In entering the roads of Medina we had a most farcical occurence. The tide is very strong in these Straits. We had a pilot on board, but Jos Smith was the officer in charge and all hands at their stations for working Ship. On the frigate sped, a number of vessels were at anchor in the Roads and between the Comdr, the Pilot & Jos Smith there seemed to be a misunderstanding of what was to be done or what berth to choose. On we speeded, and it was perceived that we must come in contact with a British Bark, perhaps run her down, but this was happily avoided and the results was in tearing almost all the Mast and Yards out of her, the Captain standing on his quarter deck uttering the most abusive expressions: "A pretty d—n Yankee frigate, &c, &c." Jos Smith threw his trumpet down in rare vexation and went forward but had no sooner reached there than a peremptory order was sent him to return, which he did and was made to feel the impropriety of his conduct. After we Anchored Comdr McDonough ordered a boat with an officer to be sent to the Bark telling him he regretted the accident and had he not been so fouled mouthed in his abuse, he would have forthwith repaired all his damages, but it would not now be done. The Capn was very sorry but he did not deny the untoward abuse & suffered considerably for his ​want of good manners. But the whole affair was a disgrace to the Ship and ought not to have happened under any circumstances. I could not help feeling presence of mind was wanting in those who had the Ship under their control.

At Cowes we had a pleasant time of it, made visits to Carrisbroke [Carsbrooke] Castle & the Isle of Wight, and admired its beautiful scenery, lovely to look upon, and probably is one of the most interesting. We also made a flying visit to Portsmouth and its Dock yard. At the former we made anxious inquiries for the "Blue Porticos" and beheld it with satisfaction and pleasure. This was later brought back by the entertaining stories of sea life in Mid Easy['s] adventures.^[17] I was much [struck] at the want of system in the English dockyard and the want of Arrangement. The wooden walls of Old England did not impress me with much respect. The Victory & other ships of note were laid up dismantled and, of course, it is difficult to impress one with much veneration for a small, dismantled hull. The Victory was of small dimension in our eyes, and the impression was how inferior to that of our own Ship, both in size and armament—yet a two decker, showing the progress that Naval architecture and efficiency for combat had made within the last 20 years.

At Copenhagen we were kindly received and permission accorded to us to visit the dock yards and the town, about which we drove. The position of the bombardment of Copenhagen and the forts and plan of attack was shown and described to us. The fort before which Capn River was killed in the attack, and the exhausted state of the English fleet when the city capitulated and the timely missive sent by Adml Nelson demanding the surrender; the moral courage and feeling which incited him to prove the position he had taken relative to granting an armistice; the anecdote of his deliberation and courtesys in sealing his dispatch was only equalled to his viewing the signal of Adml Parker with his blind eye and could not see it, seem to have been well known anecdotes. Had the Danes held out for a short time longer, the attack would have been withdrawn, and the Danes liberated from the disgrace of the capture, but the ruse of Nelson proved effective & the credit & honor of the day was with the English and adverse to the Danes. Such untoward and lucky incidents has frequently turned the scales of victory and brought about results unforseen and disastrous to the national pride.

After a few days stay at Copenhagen we set sail for St Petersburg, or rather, Cronstadt [Kronshtadt]. It was September [1818] and the Season getting late, and if the Guerrier had been by accident detained a few days, the ice might have prevented her escape or return. On our [trip] up the Gulf of Finland we passed through the Russian fleet of some 20 sail of Men of War from the 3-decker to the smaller class. We were then off Revel [Tallinn, Estonia], the afternoon was beautiful, and, as time was important, we carried all sail and passed the whole as if they had been at Anchor. We could not avoid making the Comparison ​between our ship and that of the Admiral 3 decker and were well satisfied that she could have been no match for us. Most of the guns were of small calibre & in comparison with the weight of metal our broadside guns & the state of the weather and smoothness of the water, that we could have demolished the whole fleet of some 18 vessels. I had not been able to form any idea of the power we had in our single ship, and how effectively our single frigate would have been in such a Contest. I had a full view of all the vessels as we passed through the fleet my station being in the Main top. The Russian fleet were bound to Cronstadt for their winter quarters, thus we had the opportunity of inspecting during our stay.

The dock is a high one of large dimensions in the form of an immense cross, capable of containing all the large vessels of their Navy, and were all docked for the winter, but it is not a little singular that this form should have been chosen as no one vessel could be docked and repaired singly—it may be that it was the most economical plan of construction as the whole fleet was unusually late laid up, and the crews discharged. It was said that the officers received their pay from the sale of the tackle and apparel of the ships, and that it was done to avoid greater evils, that if this was not done the apparel would all be stolen or made away with, and the government thereby gained by paying its officers off with it, involving, of course, a new outfit every season. Whether this was done with a view of economy or to keep the manufacture of the articles all of which is furnished by the country, I have never heard or seen it stated. But I believe there is no doubt that it is the case; the Men's pay was of small amount and little funds were required to pay them off. It seems however extraordinary that any Government should be unable to control its officers and employees without resorting to such Manner which must, of course, lead to more or less peculation. The comparison we were enable[d] to make between the rigging, spars, and equipment of our own ship with that of a Russian fleet should have been so vastly superior; the rigging and sails were twice if not three times as large, and I will add as effective for war purposes. In fact, the Russian fleet was so apparently deficient in all aspects that it gave us a very contemptible idea of its order and discipline. The vessels we saw in the dock were of the most antiquated forms, small and very roughly put together, and probably had not undergone much change since the great Peter first established this dockyard and this Navy. It is not probable that the Navy of Russia will ever become very formidable or proven of any weight in battle—the crews are for the most part recruits from the Army and drafted as wanted on the opening of Navigation.

The town of Cronstadt is almost entirely occupied by the Government employ as extensive stone Quays have been built and the forts well placed to guard it and the fleet when afloat, but this is with reference to the former mode of attack and defense; under the larger ordnance and effective implements of war they would be of little account. [In] the shallowness of the water in what may be called the harbour, or rather, ​

​Bay of Cronstadt, they have security from any attacking force for the Channel is extremely Narrow and would not permit of any large sized vessels of war to make an attack. In this the Arsenal of Cronstadt finds its safety. Vast sums of money have been spent in the Docks, Quays, and fortifications, and there is but few of them judiciously located. Our frigate was anchored about ½ mile from the Shore or Quay where the principle landing place is situated by a flight of granite steps. During our stay great preparations were going forward to place the fleet in winter quarters by dismantling the vessels & it was said that some American & English vessels obtained many useful articles for their ships by the purchase of rigging and stores from the officers of the several vessels.

Before we left, the 3rd Octr, ice was already forming in the harbor. The distance of Cronstadt from St Petersburg is about 20 miles, and this is reached on a small tug steamer which plies to and from the Capital. The Officers were afforded the opportunity of visiting the Capital. They were divided in two parties which gave us a week at the Capital, and was sufficient to enable us to see all the Sights of interest. Our Rendezvous was at the Hotel of Molly Moski, a large establishment and where we were well accommodated. One principal amusement was in driving about in droskys [droshkys], a peculiar vehicle with one stout draft horse and another, attached to the vehicle, of spirit and for show but of no service for the draft. It is a low vehicle with small wheels with a Seat somewhat like an extended trunk, rounded, covered with velvet or cloth, on which the persons sat astride, the driver on the front part. It is only capable of accommodating two persons besides the driver and is peculiar in appearance. It suited our party well; we had many of them engaged and formed a long line of vehicles running around the Magnificent streets.

St Petersburg is almost a flat and the country is an extensive plane, the Neva winding thru the city between its substantial quays of Granite. The width of the stream may be some 300 yards. It is crossed by several beautiful bridges of stone, and the city is laid off in radiating streets or avenues with a promenade of boulevards in the center raised some 3 feet above the street and planted with trees and having seats for the citizens. The pavements on each side extend to the houses; there is no sidewalk and on every block a Gateway or entrance through which vehicles pass to the entrances of the houses. The street front is one regular and uninterrupted row of windows looking like an extended palace and uniform in character. Although the effect is fine, but its sameness tires, and the effect produced on the stranger is melancholy. There is a want of life, the great "Rue Perspective" is a noble avenue, but it is devoid of life or bustle. We visited the Palace and were much struck with its beautiful Iron railing on a coping of stone 4 feet high; its light & beautiful form rises 18 feet with its pointed spears of gilt and the beautiful park within, but the openings which disclosed a view of the Palace reminded us more of a red brick jail than a royal residence. It is fully interesting to visit and was the residence of the great ​Catherine & where Paul was ass[as]inated. The Museum of the relics of Peter the great was a source of great interest and where is preserved all the articles of his handicraft as well as clothes & accoutrements. Some of the Mids tried on his hats & used his walking sticks. The Museum contains not very Many specimens preserved in spirits, and some that it is a wonder that the good taste of the Russian Govt should not have long since hidden from public view establishing beyond a doubt the cruelty as well as jealousy of their favorite Emperor and are disgusting to behold.

The Govt buildings stand apart from those of the city; the Admiralty, War & civil office extend from the Bridge to the west. On the abutment of this Bridge stands the Rock with the Equestrian statue of Peter the Great. This Rock was brought with great labour from [blank] and when the Statue was placed it was found to be too large and then was cut away until its proportion was suited to the Statue, which is a striking one in bronze, but it greatly disappointed us both in size and effect.

St Petersburg has a pleasing effect upon a first visit. It is built of yellow or rather Cream coloured brick and would on sight be called a city of extended palaces as far as its outward show gives the impression. But it wants the life of a city and the movement and stir of an active population. This is entirely wanting. There does not appear to be any work or employment going on. Each block of houses has its guard house and guard as a police & these are constantly alive turning out the guard for any and all officers who may happen to pass, and this gives a kind of military despotism feeling to the stranger. There is no place which I have visited that so strongly impresses one with the fact of its being a Military Govt. Altho' you see no appearance of outside work or any employment of life, yet entering into the large Gateways, and viewing the surrounding of this large space enclosed, you see the ordinary appearance of a large barracks yard, and the contrast is unfavourable to the idea of St Petersburg being a clean city. I do not believe taking the lower class into consideration there is any city that is so marked in its want of cleanliness when its interior is surveyed and considered. It has Many fine building[s], among the number is the Kasan church with its beautiful colonade.

The suburbs of St Petersburg are by no means inviting, the country being very flat and uninteresting. We made our return by land to Cronstadt by way of Peterhoff, the Royal Summer residence. It lies on the West side of the Bay which is an extensive sheet of water. Its gardens are elaborately laid out and the whole well kept, but the short summers and long winters are not favorable for the cultivation of its grounds. Much expense has been lavished upon it, but the whole effect is an apparent failure. From Peterhoff we crossed in a boat to Cronstadt, a distance of some 6 miles. The waters of this extensive bay are very shallow and there is but a small and contracted channel which the Neva had made for itself; any extraordinary flood serves to divert the waters and open new channels. Cronstadt then may be said to be the ​head of Navigation of the Gulf of Finland. Revel some [blank] miles to the East of Cronstadt is a far better port for Naval purposes than Cronstadt, and I believe more attention has been paid to it of late years.

While in St Petersburg the officers enjoyed the kind hospitality of the Russians and were welcomed. It was evident they knew but little about the Americans, whether they were black or white men, and this was made evident on one evening as we were coming out of the Opera. I heard a remark made by some one of a large party pointing out that group of officers that stood around were American. It was followed by that of others well dressed and evidently of the highest class "Oh! Non impossible, ils n'est sont pas noir." It produced a great deal of merriment among us.

The habits and appetites of the Common Russian are not cleanly. They will readily eat the skunk as if it were butter or grease and oil their bodies and heads with it; in fact they look as oily as whaling men. The Bazaar at St Petersburg is of large dimensions. The porticoes are on three sides, and are lined with small shops where all goods are sold at retail and in the greatest varieties. This is under Government control and good order prevails. I presume it has been introduced as an Eastern custom, and all frequent it at certain hours. Behind the little shops are the contracted dwellings of the Shopkeepers. The wares and merchandize vary much in kind and cost—most articles were to be purchased at reasonable prices, but as we were rather spectators than purchasers, we had not much dealings with them but in small articles of curiosity. I should have been glad to have known the Rules under which the Bazaar was conducted but no one to whom we made application could inform us. It all savored of despotic or imperial will, and there did not appear that liberty of trade which in all Marts gives life and activity to the Scene.

St Petersburg is a new city built after one design, and nothing but newness pervades all parts whether large or small. I think it is somewhat repulsive to a stranger's eye and tires by its uniformity; where one Ave. or street is seen, all are of like fashion. The interior of the houses did not strike me as adapted for a very cold climate. All apartments are warmed by stoves or furnaces; they may give heat but there is no cheerfulness in them. At the same time they appear to be well ventilated, and the apartments are large and roomy with large windows. Double sashes are in vogue but during the summer these are removed.

The Russians are a large [ms. torn] nor tall, but muscular and well developed in the legs and arms, might so far as the common people are concerned be called brawny. They did not appear to us active as the French, but more like the Dutch in figure a stolidity [ms. torn] our stay we saw great numbers of the common laborers asleep on the sidewalks on the hard stones. We were [ms. torn] with the want of Restaurants, of places of refreshment [ms. torn] amusement. Indeed in comparison to other cities its [ms. torn] quite new and uninhabited. We had some opportunity of seeing the turn out of the nobility as we frequented som[e of] the fêtes which were given. As regards the fair sex I have ​[ms. torn] seen more beauty as to complex and figure. The [mode] of dress was almost exclusively French, and the Manners of the upper class were more European than Russian. [Of] course, our acquaintance was very limited to the crowds [ms. torn] being distinctly marked as to which they were, the extremes that came under our view, the very high and the very low, that is to say Masters and servants. I do not r[ecol]lect of having seen half a dozen citizens during [ms. torn] stay, all held high rank, most of them high officers under the Government, their names were almost unpronounceable in our language. Some of them were pointed out as those who had distinguished themselves in the civil and military departments but whose fame was confined to Russia. Many spoke french to us and were very affable and polite. French seemed to be spoken and well understood particularly among the fair sex. They were all in the french fashion and extravagantly dressed.

Men appeared [to take] great pride in their equipages though I did not perceive any that were in entirely good taste or keeping. The horses were some of them fine animals, but there was a great task of matching or training. Postilions were in livery, very many of them in green which appeared the court colour. The vehicles were cumbrous and heavy and very strong, generally of the barouche form. We drove around the grounds and finally alighted at the Peterhoff palace. I would designate any as exhibiting much style or keeping in the accoutrements; fine horses were run, but they were generally those that would be designated as ordinary Post Horses. We had a beautiful sail by moonlight across the Bay, and Peterhoff was brilliant with its illumination of the Palace and grounds in many colored lights.

The weather as Octr set in became very cold, and ice formed in the bay and harbour. The Comdre was anxious to effect his departure. Some of the last batch of officers were still in St Petersburg and messages were dispatched to hurry their return; they had stayed beyond their time of leave. Active preparations were made to expedite our departure notwithstanding & the day fixed for departing, I think the 3rd Oct, but several of them were still absent. Word was brought off that they were on shore, waiting to be sent for. Boats had been already dispatched, but, being ordered to return at a certain hour, they came back. An Assistant Surgeon [Nathaniel] Miller and Mid [Joseph M.] Nicholson were the missing ones and had sent off word that they refused to return until a Man of War's boat was sent for them. I was near the Comdr when this message was brought to him through the first Lieutenant. At this he was evidently much vexed, but inquiry having been made if any more boats could be obtained at the landing and being informed in the affirmative, he thus enunciated his peculiar expression, "By Zounds, then they may stay there." The signal for the return of officers had been long flying and ought to have been noticed and obeyed. Orders were given to hoist the boats and up anchor, which was speedily done and the ship left. These officers could be seen by our glasses on the wharf or quay and certainly had it within their power to join the vessel; what their reasons were for so acting, I have never heard, ​but they were left and were obliged to return in a Merchant vessel to the United States.

I mention this incident to exonerate Comdre McDonough from the blame that was cast upon him, and am satisfied he acted as the discipline of the service required. It was a mere matter of pride of these officers who took it into their heads that it was or would be unbecoming in them to procure a passage in a shore boat to the ship, and were determined, as they thought, to force the Ship's boat on shore for their accommodation. In this they were sadly disappointed. They returned home to the United States, laid this case before the Navy department, but it sustained the action of the Comdr under all circumstances. They were both Virginians by birth and deemed themselves too proud to incur the penalty of apparent disgrace of joining the ship in a shore boat, and this too, after they had overstayed their liberty. We all regretted their fate, but it was clearly a case of desertion, and the Comdrs only alternate course would have been to have had them brought off by a guard of Marines, which must have appeared in the sight of the many collected of Russian officers as highly derogatory to the Service. I have no doubt it all arose from the importance they gave themselves and the obstinacy of placing the parties in duly yielding to a sense of duty and the Rules and Regulations of the Service.

Among the officers who visited St Petersburg from the ship was Capn [Lyman] Kellogg of the Marines. Kellogg was rather an eccentric character, very vain and punctilious in all he did. He was among the first batch and dressed in his gay uniform with cocked hat and feather of inordinate length, he was no doubt regarded by the mob, which was always on hand, as the Commanding officer. The Mids were too frolicksome for his company at St Petersburg, and, as there were but few of the Wardroom officers, Lieutenants, Chaplain & Purser, with whom he was not on particular good terms, he did not associate with them. His great amusement, to our no small diversion, was to ride around the City in a barouche he hired, sitting up straight on the back seat, and as he passed along, the guard of each block were always turned out (as their custom for all officials). He appeared always in great haste and many a laugh did we Mids have, seeing him sitting bolt upright in his barouche, with his American cocked hat and feather, rattling along the streets. I very much question if he thought of or regarded anything else. His self importance and pride was duly gratified by the honors paid him, and, if it was so, who could object. Barouche hire was at that time very cheap at St Petersburg, but I am inclined to believe the barouche was sent to await on the officers by the authorities, and Kellogg appropriated it to himself, the other officers declining to share it.

While at St Petersburg we saw a review of some 10,000 of the guards in honour of our Comdr & officers. They were a fine body of troops, and made a handsome appearance in their uniforms of green and gold with lofty fur caps. The size of the rank and file struck us as very uniform in size & all alike. It was told us that they were selected from ​the other corps, but a soldier is soon brought into size by the rigor and stays adapted to bring him into the required Shape. The marching and ordinary parade duty was beautifully gone through with, but there it ended. The Bands were well appointed [and] instructed. I was told of the rigid drill of these troops and can well believe it, and the special discipline of body & limbs to bring the man to this one standard. To end my account of Russia and St Petersburg, I had my curiosity satisfied. There is not much to gain in the way of interesting information or amusement & one would tire with the monotonous character of its appearance and the want of life a capital city ought to give. It may be called a phlegmatic city; it cloys, and there is no desire left to again visit it.

We anchored for the night in the entrance to the harbor of Revel, and thence we proceeded into the Baltic and down towards Copenhagen. On our way a ridiculous incident took place during one night. The officer of the deck was ordered to keep a bright lookout for all lights; the night was a beautiful starlight [one], the ship moving along under a fine breeze. A light was reported from aloft, and thence to the Comdr. This was unexpected & orders sent to put the ship about immediately; great confusion ensued, the helm put down and the ship in stages went around. In a few minutes the Comdr came on deck, and the supposed light turned out [to be] a brilliant star rising—"by Zounds." It proved a good joke to all the watch, and the poor officer of the Deck, Lieutenant [Samuel] Downing, got the benefit of it. In truth, Charles Ellery and myself were the authors of it, exhibiting the want of knowledge of the Lieut, for no light could have been seen in that direction as none existed. The officer of the deck never knew and appeared always to me not to take the slightest interest in the movements of the ship regarding only the duty of trimming yards & sails; this is still a great omission on the part of officers. At the time I write of, few of them knew anything about navigation or taking of observation[s] of any kind, but they continued in the service and were finally promoted by seniority, when their deficiencies became evident though too late for the good of the Navy and its operations.

Off Gothland [Gotland] island we were quite close with the land and no light to be seen. The Comdr ordered a shotted gun to be fired which soon aroused the lightkeeper who rekindled the fire, the light being in the nature of a bonfire who kept it up by fagots of wood. It answered our purposes, but it showed alas the primitive state of Navigation and the untoward neglect of the watchers.

We remained a few days at Copenhagen, in the Roads. The Hornet, Captn [George C.] Read, joined us here, but the sea and current were so strong we could not have much communication. Capn Read reached the Guerriere very fortunately. They gave him a line astern in case he missed the ship, which he did, and succeeded only through its aid in getting on board. Paddy Read, as he was generally known, was not in the most pleasant humour on his getting on board and his temper was evident. He was a fine looking and manly officer and one of great ​gallantry and a gentleman, but his temper was entirely uncontrollable and many have been the scenes that he had enacted on his quarterdeck in the presence of all hands, which was a great offset from his many very estimable qualities.

Leaving the Baltic we passed through the Gull and passing the Castle of Elsinore, the scene where the great Shakespeare laid his tragedy of Hamlet, and that of the town of [Ven] where the great Tycho had his observatory.^[18] With the lands of Jutland, we passed the sleeve into the North Sea and thence rounded the British isles on our way to the Mediterranean.

Our passage was rough until we made the Cape St Vincent and thence into the Straits of Gibraltar and cast anchor in Gibraltar bay. This wonderful stronghold and all its historic recollections gave it great interest. The outline of this great rock, its picturesque effect with its bristling fortifications was a source of great interest to me and was a never ceasing of curiosity until we had an opportunity of wandering over its surface and scaling its heights which in a few days we had leave to visit the shore. The scene was a very interesting one from the Bay; the numbers of vessels and boats with their beautiful lateen sails, the stately Men of war and the bustle and movement of arrivals & departures was enough to enchant one. These great Pillars of Hercules rising so abruptly and in such great contrast to what we had left in Northern Europe kept our attention alive, and the satisfaction I then felt of having chosen a profession, gave me great delight. I felt as if I was entering a new world and with every historic record lying opened before me.

After a short stay at Gibraltar, where we had an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity in visiting its strong holds, which we were permitted to do under the permission from Govr Don, then Govr,^[19] and were kindly permitted to inspect where we chose, rambling about in various directions to our entire satisfaction, visiting St Michaels Cave & the lofty flag staff station as well as the Northern Galleries in which a great number of large cannon were placed to overwhelm an enemy who might come on that side called the Neutral Ground, a low and flat sandy plane which intervenes between the Rock and the Spanish Territory. This has been oft the point of contention during the Sieges which Gibraltar has undergone. On the Spanish line beyond gun shot the Spaniards still maintain a guard. There are lines of works and trenches across the Neutral Ground from the Bay to the Mediterranean. On either side of the Rock vessels are frequently caught and becalmed for hours by its too near approach. They generally keep the Straits open and get the full force of the wind which at times blows with great violence.

We left to join the Squadron then about to go into winter quarters at Messina. On our way up the Mediterranean we cruised a few ​days off Cape de Gatt [de Gata], overhauling all vessels passing by, and then proceeded towards Syracuse, passing to the south of Sardinia and thence Eastward around Sicily to the harbour of Syracuse, which we entered and were to await orders. The harbour of Syracuse is small, nearly of circular form. The entrance is somewhat obstructed by a ledge of rocks and the channel across it narrow, though the water is deep enough for a vessel of large draft of water. The City of Syracuse is built upon a tongue of land on the East side of the Bay. It is a walled town with gates at the landing, the houses generally built of stone, with narrow streets and overlooks the Bay on one side and the Sea on the other. Its population at the time of our visit was about 18,000. It has little appearance of life & very little trade. The great part of Ancient Syracuse lies on the West side now only visible from its ruins. Among other objects of interest we saw were the Ear of Dionysus and its construction out in the solid rock is still in preservation enough to show a wonderful adaptation of his tyranny in having this dreary cave wherein he could hear the decriations [illegible] him while occupying the tympanum. Atena forms a beautiful object in the distance. The island view is interesting though not as striking as some other parts of Sicily.

When we reached Syracuse we found orders to join the Squadron at Messina, but remained for ten days overhauling the ship and otherwise cleaning up. During our stay the frigate United States, Capn [William M.] Crane, visited Syracuse coming from the Grecian Archipelago. The frigate was subject to quarantine for a length of time, but Capn Crane had given them [the authorities] the name of a small port at which we had been, of which they knew nothing, and, I suppose by some sort of bribery, induced the Authorities to grant his vessel practique and freed them from future trouble in visiting other ports in the Mediterranean.

The quarantine Laws are exceptionally strict and vessels coming from the Levant are subject to all the annoyances they can inflict, but, passing up the Mediterranean, a clean Bill of health from Gibraltar gives full practique everywhere. The deceit practiced by Capn Crane was not in keeping with the high tone of a Naval officer, and it made that impression upon me. How far it may be justified, in the necessity of procuring for communication with the shore for Naval & national purposes, I was not able to form an opinion, but it was deceit and passed off as a good joke by the Capn & his officers. The Officers & crew of the frigate were perfectly healthy, yet in my eyes this did not excuse the act. Much intercourse was had between the ships and comparisons drawn as to the two ships and their crews which was manifest enough. The United States had been on the Station for two years, crew well drilled and ship in splendid order, while the Guerrier was roughly fitted out, little order or discipline and everything yet to be refined or gotten into order. The crew equally though well clad in stuff were a beggarly set of looking fellows with nothing fitting and hanging loosely about their persons. As a show frigate we were not ​far removed from a Portuguese Man of War. The United States was a beautiful model, and every attention had been paid to her discipline & equipment; but although this outward appearance was evident to us all, yet there was a very great and marked advantage in the old Guerrier or, as they named her, the Old Wagon.

Capn McDonough was a moral and religious Man of high tone and character, and carefully watched over his officers and crew. Profanity, rowing, and crime of any sort were never suffered to go unpunished, and correct deportment was urged upon all and suitably rewarded. The Guerrier was a sober ship and bore no marks upon the conduct of officers and crew, but the United States, Capn Crane, was, I regret to say, the reverse, and one could not well be on board or alongside of her without hearing oaths and imprecations. The Capn himself set the example and a more foul mouthed officer could not be found. He obtained the Sobriquet of Billy the Bilger. He was about the usual height, broad and corpulent, awkward and very unwieldly in his person, his face full and broad and rubicund all over giving him the appearance of a dissipated Man. He was firm & tyrannical & both officers and Men I think despised him. His discipline, through the lash and vulgar abuse to his officers, kept them in awe of him. I always felt glad that my lot had not been thrown under his command. He was a great leader, and one of ready wit, and described as very entertaining. He was greatly afflicted with the gout. I did not perceive any refinement in him but coarseness and vulgarity of the old Benbow style. He was in charge of one of the Bureaus in the Navy Dept when he brought himself to an untimely end by committing suicide in his office by deliberately cutting his throat with a razor. At the time of his death this act was attributed to excess of spirits brought on by a religious excitement for several weeks. His manners were very austere and his prejudices very strong. None of his officers cared for him, and he elicited much fear on their intercourse with him. There are many anecdotes relative of him, but, as they have no interest to you, I will not relate them, especially as they do not redound to his credit or that of the Navy. Captn McDonough was in every way a contrast to him, abstemious and very correct in his deportment and having an eye in constant watchfulness over his officers.

During our stay at Syracuse a duel took place between Midn [Egbert] Shaler, the Captn['s] brother in Law, and Midn [George P.] Upshur belonging to the same mess. It grew out of the feeling of Virginia against the Eastern officers, Shaler being from Connecticut, and required but very trival circumstances to bring it to pass. Shaler received a wound which was at first believed mortal, but did not prove so. Capn McDonough was very much distressed at its occurrence and particularly as Shaler was so nearly connected with him. I had been on shore that day and although I had nothing whatever to do with the affair and did not know of its coming off, yet the Captain sent for me to enquire of the particulars. I frankly told him I knew nothing about it, and, if I did, I would not answer any questions he might put to me. ⁠ ​After looking at me for a minute searchingly, he made me some slight apoligy for his suspicions and dismissed me with a pleasant smile. I suppose his suspicions had grown out of my being intimate with Shaler. When I came to learn the facts, I felt it had been quite an unnecessary [act] and should not have taken place, no cause existing why they should have fought. Upshur was a high minded officer and by no means quarrelsome and Shaler was pacific in his disposition. It grew out of the cussing and national feelings of others. Shaler at the end of the cruize resigned & went to the West. Upshur continued in the Service and died before the [Civil] War after having been in charge of the Naval Academy.

During our stay at Syracuse I was with Midn Wilson in the Launch watering ship. Among the crew of the Launch was the ship's trumpeter (Rodriguez), whom 1st Lieut Joe Smith had taken a great fancy to. He was a very indifferent bugler, and blew away at Reville furiously, and did not mind how many notes he omitted, either then, or at the tattoo, and it was generally the signal for boisterous mirth in the steerage. One of the days, Rodriguez took leave of the Launch and went to seek his pleasure. When we [were] ready to shove off, he was missing and Wilson was obliged to return without him and returning on board, reported him absent. It was soon ascertained in the Steerage and such shouts & thanks returned to Wilson & myself for getting rid of him as took place was indeed laughable. All were glad the vile music [was ended]. It may seem strange in a Man of War that is under strict discipline such conduct is admissable, but the Steerage is an exception & free quarters for talk and fun. Although it is next to the Lieutenants' Wardroom, yet custom of the Service has sanctioned its freedom of remark.

After an hour or more I got a message from the 1st Lt and went to him & found him sitting playing the fiddle, holding it between his legs, when without stopping he ordered Wilson & myself to get ready to go on shore in search of Rodriguez, and a boat was ordered to land us outside of the Gates of Syracuse. There was no fear of Rodriguez deserting. He was too worthless a fellow for that and one of no [use], for us [a] hard bargain. We came to the conclusion, both Wilson & myself, it was for punishment and as neither of us could speak Italian, we mentioned it to Mr. Smith. He ordered the old Mast Man (Moran) to accompany us, and thus we thus were landed on the beach outside the town & nothing whatever to do, for there was no police & no entrance within the gates. Consequently, we had the prospect of spending the night in our useless search with old (Moran) to watch and take care of. I told Wilson that I thought it was an useless errand going around among the many shanties, and proposed we should take a canoe & pass across the Bay to the City Water Gate and get aboard by one of the Ship's boats, for I had no idea of submitting to such punishment. I hoped it would be reported to the Captain. He [Wilson], being the older officer, of course, was more responsible than I was but I would take the blame of outwitting Old Joe (as we called the 1st Lt). ⁠ ​At last we agreed to take one of the many canoes and make for the water gate half a mile and upward across the Bay. This we did and landed safely and had the good fortune to find the gate open for those passing out & entered. We went to the Hotel in hopes of finding the Officers on liberty but they had all gone to Opera. And then we determined to have a game of billiards taking our interpreter with us whom we stowed in one corner of the room, the farthest from the door, & covered him with his Giaco [giacca] where he was shortly fast asleep Wilson and myself took to playing billiards, and while busily engaged, who should enter but our Captain. I at once told him of our errand on shore, & what had brought us there. I was forced to be the spokesman as Wilson was in such cases through modesty and an impediment of his Speech or hesitancy which amounted to it. The Captain walked deliberately round the table looking under it, said he did not think we would find him there and left us in our astonishment, over which we had a hearty laugh. We were afterwards joined by the officers and made our way on board. Some few words passed with the guard at the Gate, and it ended by locking the guard in the Guard house and passing out the post gate. The Keys of it and the Guard house were chucked over the wall & we went on board. It was a Mids' frolic and we enjoyed it not a little, expecting, of course, the next Morning to have a regular fuss. But none came & we had escaped, but we afterwards found that our Captain had had a report made to him but had passed it off without further notice. It was seldom indeed that a party of Mids had not some kind of incident back in those days.

The cicerone of Syracuse were much put to it to answer the questions put to them, one in particular, where the fleet lay in the Harbour which Archimedes burnt with his mirrors; and many were [the questions] which they failed of to answer for they knew nothing about it or probably never had heard but it was [illegible]. The present Syracuse is a very small town and as all Sicilian towns are remarkable for their uncleanliness and rank Smells.

We had much to do on shipboard overhauling ship. Mr Smith was very fond of having the boats well equipped and delighted to take a sail. He had one of the small boats, the jolly boat, nicely fitted up with sails and I was inclined, in one of his pleasant moods, to ask him to take a sail in her. This he assented to & I had a nice time of it but coming alongside the Ship there was a rough sea as the Masts just came under the booms in the Chains and in an instant both masts were broken off at the thwarts. It was a laughable accident, and although Smith was greatly vexed at the time, he said nothing but hummed a sort of tune. It was the last time I asked to take a sail in a Ship's boat.

The United States took her departure and in passing out of the harbour the Wind failed & signal was made for all our boats to tow. It was promptly rendered. I was in the Launch, and such a wild uproar as we heard when we got along side that fairly astounded us. Billy the Bilger was on deck and greatly excited. One of the first expressions I heard just above my head was in his vernacular, "You d—n whelp, ​what are you doing there?" Looking up, I saw his full blown face I have already described with a cocked hat on square on his head, as red as the gills of turkey cock. The Ship made a narrow escape of grounding; but for the aid furnished him, he would have gone ashore. The young officers who were in our boats returned greatly excited at the coarse & unofficer like language used to them. The only satisfaction was that it was Billy the Bilger's way.

Nothing Material occurred in the Naval line except the Arrival of a British Gun brig of war. The idea became prevalent that she was always dogging our Squadron, and a feeling was evidently arising among our officers that it must be put a stop [to]. This was probably the first beginning of the difficulties which subsequently took place & which I shall hereafter write an account of.

We left Syracuse & the next day anchored in the Harbour of Messina to remain in Winter Quarters. The Harbour of Messina is nearly of an egg shape and about ½ or ¾ of a mile on its largest diameter. The water is very deep in the centre where the Men of War are anchored. The city is built up on the Western Side rising in the form of an amphitheatre towards the hills and built up close. The quays for the accommodation of the Shipping are well built, and the vessels are moored head on, side by side. These are good landing slips, and the Quay is a wide carriage road leading along the shore to the North and East which is the usual ride of those who have vehicle generally makes comparison with gilt and plated trappings. This is much frequented by the richer and higher classes. They do not much differ from the fiacre, and the mules driven by a postilion mounted on one of them. They are generally small and look not unlike rats before the vehicle. My friend Tallmadge, a Mid in the Squadron of powerful strength, amused me greatly by betting that he would stop one of those vehicles & seized hold of the frame and fairly brought the vehicle to a standstill to the astonishment of the Postilion and those within. It gave us no small amusement to witness. His family were all noted for their strength and belonged to Kinderhook on the North River.

The Port of Messina seemed as if formed by an extinct volcano. The tongue of land which forms the harbour sweeps around on the Straits side till it nears the Mainland on the East making the narrow entrance and rendering the Harbour nearly landlocked & very secure from all storms. This low Sandy ground has few homes upon it, but contains the Dock yard, rope walks and a fort or two of little account for its defense except for small vessels. Confined as the port is, it is a very busy place of business and apparently the great mart for the fruit trade. We found Several American Vessels loading with fruit for the United States.

In the way of amusement there is not much in Messina, a small theatre and opera house and the (Cosino?) Rooms. These are a beautiful set of apartments extending the whole length of the building and appropriated to the amusement of the upper classes. All the officers of the squadron received cards of invitation. 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1. ↑ Reference here is to John Wilkes' attack on British government policy in issue Number 45 of The North Briton, 23 April 1763.
2. ↑ British public school term referring to a junior classman's servitude to an upper classman.
3. ↑ Mary Seton died shortly after Charles Wilkes was born.
4. ↑ Mrs. Elizabeth Seton, later Mother Seton, was canonized as the first American saint in 1974.
5. ↑ Appears later as Finley.
6. ↑ This is the only time Wilkes spells his stepmother's name with a "d."
7. ↑ Cinchona bark; quinine.
8. ↑ Wilkes also spells this name as McDonald and MacDonald.
9. ↑ Union College, now Union University.
10. ↑ Ammonia water or salts.
11. ↑ This paragraph was found on a separate sheet inserted after p. 68 in the original manuscript.
12. ↑ First Families of Virginia.
13. ↑ Here nine pages of Wilkes' manuscript are missing.
14. ↑ William B. Finch was a Lieutenant when Wilkes entered the Navy. Promoted to Captain in 1831, he shortly thereafter, for some reason, changed his name to William C. Bolton. He appears under both names in this manuscript.
15. ↑ Tobias George Smollett, Roderick Random (Falkirk, Scotland: T. Johnson, 1820).
16. ↑ Navy Registers for the period list four midshipmen with the surname of Cutts: Augustus, Charles E., James M. and Joseph.
17. ↑ Frederick Marryat, Mr. Midshipman Easy (London: Saunders & Otley, 1836).
18. ↑ Tycho Brahe, Danish astronomer (1546—1601), who established an observatory on Ven Island in 1576.
19. ↑ General George Don, then Lieutenant Governor.